tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-52884458835005316562024-02-19T03:43:41.589+01:00Small-Pets-at-HomeAll about small pets at your home. Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.comBlogger133125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-75504479648010782512020-11-08T13:11:00.001+01:002020-11-08T13:11:18.345+01:00Fact Sheet: GUINEA PIGS<div style="text-align: justify;">
(Original Title: Guinea Pig Care & Handling)</div>
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<b>What Guinea pigs Eat and Drink:</b></div>
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First off let's start off with what you should never feed you guinea pig:</div>
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-Potatoes and potato skins </div>
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-Iceberg lettuce (most other lettuce is okay) </div>
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-Rhubarb </div>
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-Beans </div>
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-Cauliflower </div>
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-Chocolate</div>
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Chocolate and potato skins and potatoes have been known to kill or make Guinea pigs sick. The other stuff is very unhealthy. If you are not sure about a food item you are going to feed you guinea pig then don't feed them it until you have researched further.</div>
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Now what to feed your guinea pig: Guinea pigs need a lot of fibre and vitamin C (because just like humans they cannot produce vitamin C and need to do bowel movements.</div>
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-Guinea pigs need and love hay, do to the fact that it provides a good source of fibre and guinea pigs need lots of fibre.</div>
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-Hay - the best type of hay for your Guinea pig is Timothy hay unless they are very young under 4 months, pregnant or nursing sows then use alfalfa-based hay. You should make sure there is always hay in the cage for your Guinea pig (it is best if it is not touching the ground so it does not get contaminated).</div>
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-Pellet food - one essential thing here is that you never feed theme any other type of pellet food then guinea pig food, so too the fact that guinea pig food contains vitamin C and others are not as healthy for them. Make sure you get a good brand of food because that is one of the main things guinea pigs eat, as in hay give them as much as they need usually a small handful per piggy, but if there is a lot leftover the next day then add less in the mornings, also if the bowl is constantly empty the next day then add more.</div>
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-Water - very important to make sure that their sippy bottle always has plenty of fresh cool water in it.</div>
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-Veggies and fruits - if your guinea pig does not get enough of these then it will not have enough vitamin C in its system which could cause scurvy. Most vegetables are good for your guinea pig(s) except of course the ones I mentioned earlier (again of course if you are not sure of something you are planning pm feeding your guinea pig look it up) some of the best fruits and veggies are apples, carrots, pear, and most lettuces (never iceberg), there are many more that are suitable. Some guinea pigs can be very picky about what they eat so make sure you introduce what you want to feed to them when they are still young.</div>
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<b>Cage: </b></div>
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Guinea pig cages should not be looked at as a cage, they should be looked at as a home, because unlike dog cages were you put your dog when it sleeps or when you are out the guinea pig spends most of the time in its cage. So the cage should be at least 2.5 ft by 2.5 ft for one pig and for each additional pig you should as at least 2 ft by 2ft of cage size but bigger won't hurt. The walls should be at least 1 foot high. because guinea pigs natural habit when they are scared or startled is to run to shelter you should have a house in your guinea pig cage about twice the size of the pig and with an opening, it can just fit in, you need one house per pig.</div>
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<b>Bedding: </b></div>
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Is the stuff that goes on the bottom of the cage, you should get a quality bedding like if not using this then make sure you are using one that isn't too strong smelling. DO NOT USE CEDAR WOODCHIPS; Guinea pigs are allergic to them so they can cause health problems. The Bedding shouldn't have to be more then 2cm thick, if you see the bottom of the cage after your pig has been running through it then add more after the next cleaning.</div>
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<b>Cleaning: </b></div>
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You should clean the cage about once a week, that includes removing the guinea pig(s) putting it or them in a safe environment, for the time being, then remove the bedding and anything else wash the cage itself the house or houses sterilize the water bottle and food bowl dry everything, then put fresh bedding in then the cage then the food and attach the water bottle and finally the guinea pig(s) should only take 10-20 minutes.</div>
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<b>Handling: </b></div>
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When you are removing the guinea pig from its cage be sure not to startle it because it will run away and hide. When picking up place one hand under its ribcage area and the other on its bottom, pick up slowly. Do not place your guinea pig on any high places that it can fall off or hurt its self. When holding the guinea pig be sure not to squeeze him be gentle and safe. Your guinea pig may be afraid of humans at first but if you are careful with him it won't be long till he/she will love to be picked up.</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Exercise: </b></div>
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Guinea pigs like all animals need exercise, you can help them to get exercise by giving them a larger cage or having a large enclosed area for them to run around and play well you watch, they are usually more active when happy or in pairs.</div>
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<b>Cleaning & Caring: </b></div>
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Guinea pigs need their nails trimmed and fur brushed, trimming there nails can be very difficult so make sure to have someone show or tell you how to do it before doing it yourself because you can hurt them if you do it wrong. If your guinea pig is smelly or greasy you can bath him bye filling up your sink with water, make sure his face stays dry. if you are using shampoo make sure to get it from a vet, if so then make sure to rinse it all out by taking soap-free water and pouring it gently on your guinea pig. Use a towel to dry him be very gentle to not hurt your piggy, never use a blow dryer because the heat can hurt guinea pigs.</div>
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<b>Health: </b></div>
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If you see any health problems consult your local vet. this goes the same for any other pet on this website including Ferrets, Hamsters, Pet Mice, or Rabbits</div>
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By <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Delsin_Boyd">Delsin Boyd</a> - Article Source: <b><a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?Guinea-Pig-Care-and-Handling&id=2158634" target="_blank">EzineArticles</a></b> </ul>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-11510355692730819592020-09-06T12:58:00.002+02:002020-09-06T12:58:39.877+02:00Illnesses and Injuries in CHINCHILLAS<div style="text-align: justify;">
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Chinchillas do a good job at hiding their illnesses and injuries, they're prey animals. If your Chinchilla needs medical care, a veterinarian acquainted in Chinchilla care is required. If you notice your Chinchilla acting drowsy, having a change in appetite, or having discharge from the eyes or nose, you should get your Chinchilla to the vet ASAP. Hand-feeding is often necessary when dealing with a sick or injured Chinchilla. It's common for a Chinchilla who is sick or injured to become anorexic. Becoming anorexic will lead to even more problems. Once a Chinchilla goes off its feed, it's necessary to begin hand-feeding.</div>
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A first-aid kit is good to have for minor injuries and ailments. It's a good idea to be prepared for more serious illnesses by having all of the basic supplies early. You should have Blu-Kote, which is a cleaning spray/liquid that can be used on fungus and wounds. You'll need Oxbow Critical Care, which is for hand feeding. Next, you'll need Life Line, a great supplement for sick/injured Chinchillas. You will need Syringes, both large and small for hand feeding and managing medication. Then, you'll need Vitamin E Oil and/or Bag Balm for dry skin. You'll also need Acidophilus, for the maintenance of good bacteria of the digestive tract. Last, you will need Kaolin-pectin, treatment of stress-induced diarrhea.</div>
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If your Chinchilla stops eating on their own, it's necessary to hand feed them. Chinchillas unfortunately commonly go anorexic if they're sick, injured, or taking medication. Oral Baytril is infamous for causing Chinchillas to stop eating. Place your Chinchilla in a carrier and lay down paper towels if you're unsure if your Chinchilla is eating. Observe your Chinchilla see if any stools are produced. If no stools or small, hard poops are created, then it may be a sign that they have gone off their feed. The best food replacement for Chinchillas is Oxbow Critical Care. Critical care comes in primitive and apple banana flavors. You can get critical care from a vet that supplies Oxbow products. It comes in a powder form and it's mixed with water to become a paste or liquid consistency. It's good to have it on hand in case an emergency should emerge. Then, you're prepared and time isn't wasted if something does happen to your Chinchilla and it refuses to eat.</div>
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If a Chinchilla doesn't eat, it can go into GI Stasis. GI Stasis is where the digestive system shuts down. The Chinchilla must constantly have food moving through its system or it will begin to shut down. That's why hand feeding is so critical if a Chinchilla stops eating. To hand feed a Chinchilla or manage antibiotics, it's a good idea to wrap him up in a towel or a blanket. It's called the burrito method. You wrap the Chinchilla up securely, but not too tight. Make sure to wrap the legs. Hold firmly, but not enough to injure the Chinchilla. After being wrapped up, the Chinchilla will usually calm down.</div>
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A syringe can be used to hand-feed or to give medication. Place the syringe in the side of the mouth, behind the front incisors, and squirt only a small amount of liquid in at a time. Keep in mind not to give too much, the Chinchilla can aspirate.</div>
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The fungus is caused if Chinchillas are kept in environments with high humidity. It makes them delicate to ringworm. If can also occur if a Chinchilla gets wet and isn't dried thoroughly. It's highly contagious so it can easily be transferred from other Chinchillas, animals, or people. They lose their fur, they get itchy, they get dry, and they get red and/or scaly skin. You must see a vet. The vet can do a skin scrape and test for the area for fungal spores. If you're fine with treating the fungus yourself, you can follow the treatment guideline. If the treatment doesn't seem to be working, definitely consult a vet. To treat yourself, add Tinactin powder to the dust bath. Add about one heaping spoon to a cup of dust. Apply Blu-kote to the affected area. Sanitize the cage and anything else with bleach. Throw away any wood since it's porous and hard to sanitize. Continue the treatment for at least six weeks or until the vet says. Be sure the Chinchilla is fungus-free before allowing contact with others.</div>
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You can prevent them by keeping the cage clean. Be sure the Chinchilla isn't in a humid environment. Keep the Chinchilla from getting wet. Keep any effected Chinchillas away from others and be sure to isolate new Chinchillas for at least thirty days. A fungus is extremely contagious, but not deadly. It can be difficult to get rid of. When treating the fungal infection, being persistent is key. It's important to practice safe hygiene because the ringworm can be transferred to you. Fungus in Chinchillas is most common around the eyes, nose, mouth, and ears.</div>
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Chinchillas get eye infections from irritation in the eye, bacteria, or a virus. You will know if you see wet fur around the eye, watery eyes, red/irritated eyelids, swollen eyelids, or goop coming from the eyes. You should definitely see a vet! It's a good idea to have the vet test their eye with a dye solution to make sure the cornea has not been scratched. You can treat it by giving them eye drops or applying gel to the affected eye(s). You can also be prescribed an oral antibiotic. You can prevent eye infections by keeping the cage hygienic and practice hygienic handling. Avoid contact with other pets!</div>
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Parasites in tap water cause Chinchillas to get parasites. They could also get it by other infected animals. They get diarrhea, mucous-like stools, larger stools, weight loss, loss of their appetite, or change in their activity levels. You should take them to a vet. The vet will test a fresh sample and then examine it under a microscope looking for parasites and/or other cysts. The Chinchilla should be given antibiotics or antiparasitics in rounds. The most common medication prescribed that's effective is Flagyl. If the infection is bad, it will be needed more than once. To upkeep fiber, unsweetened shredded wheat can be used. Clean everything the animal comes in contact with! Sanitize the cage with bleach. Any wooden items should be sanded down or disposed of. Keep in mind, their recovery can take weeks. It may be necessary to hand feed. Definitely monitor their weight. To prevent parasites, give your Chinchilla filtered, bottled, or reverse osmosis. Isolate any new animals for a minimum of thirty days. Avoid any contact with other animals. The most common parasite that Chinchillas becomes infected by is giardia. Giardia is an intestinal parasite that can cause diarrhea and anorexia, and leading to dehydration. Giardia is contagious. It can be passed from pets to other pets and even people. After coming in contact with the parasite, it could take between one to two weeks for any symptoms to appear. When treating the parasite(s), vet care and prescribed medication is a MUST!</div>
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Upper respiratory infections are caused by a bacterial infection, contact with other animals, crowded conditions, or poorly ventilated housing. They start sneezing; have labored breathing, nasal discharge, watery eyes AKA: conjunctivitis, clicking sound when breathing, wheezing, or squeaking. You should definitely see a vet quickly. URI's can be serious very quickly. Most likely, the vet will prescribe an oral antibiotic but may give an injectable if you're comfortable with it. Keep your Chinchilla away from drafts. Keep up with sanitation conditions and avoid contact with other animals.</div>
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Bumblefoot is caused by unsanitary cage conditions or wire flooring which causes feet to become dry and cracked. A bacterium gets into their wounds and causes the infection known as bumblefoot. Their symptoms consist of dry, cracked, or bleeding feet. To treat bumblefoot keep the animal on soft bedding such as fleece. Remove any wire or cover with solid shelving or fleece. Apply Blu-kote to the feet. If the problems continue to occur, then take the Chinchilla to the vet for antibiotics.</div>
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Chinchillas bloat because of bad feeding habits including excessive treats, vegetables, fruits, anorexia, or constipation. They are stretching, have lethargy, twisting, lie flat, or press their belly to the ground. If you notice the symptoms, see a vet immediately! X-rays can be taken to determine if the belly is full of gas bubbles. The vet should prescribe GI medications like Reglan and Propulsid. Manage infants' Mylicon AKA Simethicone. It helps break down gas bubbles. Give Reglan and Propulsid. With small, circular, firm motions moving downward, the belly can be massaged. Let the Chinchilla have gentle exercise to help get their gut moving. Give them plenty of high count acidophilus. Do not feed them excessive or sugary treats. Do not give any fruits or vegetables. Make sure to provide the Chinchilla with healthy Chinchilla pellets and hay. Complete the diet with acidophilus.</div>
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GI Stasis is caused by anorexia, stemming from stress, dehydration, pain, injuries, illness, or blockage. They appear to have anorexia, lethargy, small hard stools, or even no stools at all. Definitely see a vet immediately! It is very hard to treat. They should get constant massages, hand feeding, and medications that are definitely needed such as Reglan and Propulsid. To prevent GI Stasis, hand-feed the Chinchilla if it goes of its feed for ANY reason.</div>
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Dental Spurs are caused by uneven wearing teeth. They drool, lose their appetite, paw at the mouth, have to gag motions when chewing or eating, and have weight loss. See a vet! Oral exams can pinpoint teeth spurs. It's a very good idea to get x-rays. The vet can file the affected teeth down. It's a good idea to bring the Chinchilla in for routine check-ups if they're common. After dental work, you may need to hand feet. To prevent Dental Spurs, provide your Chinchilla with plenty of chew toys and different varieties of hay.</div>
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Malocclusion is from uneven wearing teeth, genetics, and environmental injuries. They drool, lose their appetite, get watery eyes, paw at the mouth, make gagging motions when chewing or eating, lose weight, change activity level, or have bumps on their jaw. See a vet! The vet will have to perform a thorough oral exam such as x-rays. They're urgent to be sure that the roots are not overgrown into the jaw or sinus cavities. It's not a curable disease. Their symptoms may be an impediment and looked after, but only for a certain amount of time. If the teeth are overgrown, the vet can file down the molars or clip the incisors. The Chinchilla will need routine check-ups. You may have to hand feed after dental work. To prevent it, provide many chew toys along with different varieties of hay.</div>
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They don't know what causes fur chewing. Some believe that it's stress, the environment, boredom, or genetics. Their fur is chewed short down the hips/back. Even cage-mates could be chewed. They'll need a visual examination. There isn't a known treatment for fur chewing. Just provide the Chinchilla with many enhanced items and things to do may help. To prevent it, give them plenty of chew toys and activities.</div>
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Hunchback is caused by malnutrition leading to liver disease. They get a characteristic "hunched" back. To come to a diagnosis, a vet can run tests. Offering a high-quality diet can help. Provide your Chinchilla with a high-quality feed, and do not feed excessive treats or unhealthy treats.</div>
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Overheating is caused by keeping a Chinchilla in an environment with too high temperature, allowing the Chinchilla to play excessively. They get red ears; have labored breathing, and lethargy. Vet care may be needed. Immediately move the Chinchilla to a cooler area. Put a frozen water bottle next to the Chinchilla or lay the Chinchilla on a chilled granite tile. To prevent the Chinchilla from overheating, keep the Chinchilla in temperatures lower than seventy-five degrees Fahrenheit.</div>
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Male Chinchillas are inclined to hair rings. A hair ring is a ring of fur that forms around the Chinchillas penis. Males usually clean their penises themselves and remove any hair rings. Fur may build up and the Chinchilla might be unable to remove the ring itself. That's when you must step in. Once a month hair ring checks should be performed. You can do that by wrapping the Chinchilla in a towel securely. To remove the penis from the cover, a dab of KY Jelly could help lubricate and make it easier. Gently roll the cover back to reveal the penis. Take the penis with your fingers and gently pull outward until the penis is fully revealed. If there's a fur present, it'll need to be removed. The ring can be lubricated with more KY Jelly and gently worked off of the penis. Then, the penis should withdraw itself, but it may take some time. If the penis is still revealed after a few hours have passed, you then may need to see a vet. If your Chinchilla has a fur ring that can't be removed, then you should definitely see a vet. Make sure to be gentle and not hurt the Chinchilla.</div>
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Chinchillas have dainty skeletal structures. Broken bones are common in many pet Chinchillas, unfortunately. Cages that have ramps are infamous for causing Chinchillas to get their legs caught and ultimately broken in between the wires. Cages with wire flooring that's too large and shelves could also break their legs. Another thing that's known to break their legs is wire wheels. A broken leg will be cut off by a vet. Chinchillas with their legs cut off to do pretty amazingly on three legs. They can still hop, run, and play like regular Chinchillas. They can even run on their wheels with no problems at all. If you notice your Chinchilla favoring a leg, and the condition doesn't improve within a day, take it to the vet for X-rays. X-rays are great for finding out if your Chinchilla has a broken bone. For a broken leg, cutting it off is the best option. Under some circumstances, some have been able to save the leg.</div>
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Chinchillas can turn on their cage-mates and cause nasty wounds. If the wounds are shallow, they can be cleaned with a damp cloth and Blu-kote can be applied to them. If the wounds are more serious, vet care should be seen immediately because Chinchillas can go into shock. Shock is dangerous if it isn't treated and it can be fatal. The vet will most likely shave the affected area and clean the wounds. To either prevent the infection or fight the infection that has set in, an oral antibiotic may be prescribed. If you notice your Chinchillas wound looking red, inflamed, or seeping, vet care should definitely be provided in case an infection is beginning to take place. A wounded Chinchilla may stop eating and you'll need to step in and hand feed. It's crucial to watch your chinchilla see if they're eating. If they go anorexic, they can face more serious problems. Hope this has helped and good luck!</div>
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By <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Emanuel_Segura">Emanuel Segura</a> - Article Source: <b><a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?Illnesses-and-Injuries-in-Chinchillas&id=7191316" target="_blank">EzineArticles</a></b></ul>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-23514670913442483982020-08-16T12:23:00.002+02:002020-08-16T12:23:33.822+02:00FERRET Care - How to Care for Your Pet Ferret<div class="zemanta-img" style="text-align: justify;">
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If you have decided to get yourself a pet ferret there are several places that you can go to obtain one. The following are the most accessible places for getting your hands on a pet ferret:</div>
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1. A Pet store </div>
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3. An animal shelter</div>
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Ferrets have fairly long life spans compared to other animals of a similar size. Ferrets tend to live an average of about 8-9 years, which means that you should make absolutely sure that you want a ferret and have done all of the necessary research before purchasing one. Please note that ferrets do take a lot of care and attention and that you must take this into consideration before buying one. This article is intended to give you some basic information about ferret care and how best to look after your little ferret friend.</div>
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One of the most important things to note about ferrets is that they are a predominantly nocturnal species; this basically means that they are asleep for the majority of the day and they wake up during the night. The first few weeks of owning a ferret tend to be quite tiring for the new owner. Ferrets have lots of energy when they first wake up and they need lots of entertainment and exercise to keep them healthy, this means that when your ferret wakes up you will need to let him out to play. If left in its cage a ferret can become bored and restless and can get quite stressed and unhappy and this can lead to a ferret becoming quite ill and unhealthy.</div>
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Ferrets are naturally curious creatures and they enjoy crawling into small dark spaces. They also have a tendency to eat anything small enough to fit into their mouths, obviously, this is not always good for them because it can cause them digestive problems and stomach aches. Another problem with a ferret's curiosity is that they like to chew cables; again this can be very bad for your ferret as getting several thousand volts through their delicate little bodies can cause them some serious problems. To avoid your ferret getting injured, sick, or electrocuted you should make sure that your home is ferret proofed before allowing your little friend to wander around the place. Keep any rooms that you are allowing the ferret into clean and tidy, make sure that there are no small objects lying around, keep cables secure and out of your ferrets reach, and try to block up any small spaces that your ferret may try to squeeze into. Blocking up small spaces will not only keep your ferret from injuring himself but it will also mean that he is easy to find at all times.</div>
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Ferrets are small mammals and are carnivorous so you will have to feed them meat. The thing about ferrets is that they have quite specific dietary needs and you will have to meet these needs in order to keep your pet ferret healthy. Ferrets have very high metabolisms and require food that is high in protein such as is contained in meat and poultry. Most pet shops will stock ferret specific food and they are also available on the internet at very competitive prices so getting hold of ferret food is very easy indeed. Some people suggest feeding a ferret cat food, this is not a good idea as cat food does not contain all of the nutrients that a ferret requires so prolonged feeding of cat food can have adverse effects on your ferret's health. It is important to avoid feeding your ferret anything that is high in fat or that contains high amounts of carbohydrates and sugar as this will make your ferret sick.</div>
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As with the vast majority of household pets, your pet ferret will require water (I know this is an obvious fact but I figured I might as well mention it incise anybody forgot about it). Tap water should be fine for your pet ferret and you can dispense it into either a bowl or a bottle. A lot of people tend to put the water into a pet bottle that attaches to the side of the ferret cage, similar to the type you put on a gerbil cage. The advantages of using a bottle instead of a bowl are that they do tend to be less messy. Whether you use a bowl or a bottle for your ferret's water you must ensure that you clean it regularly to avoid making your ferret ill.</div>
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Due to the fact that ferrets are curious and adventurous, not to mention occasionally a little bit destructive, it is not advised that you leave your ferret unsupervised. Cats and dogs are fine to leave in the house on their own unsupervised for periods of time and they, if trained properly, do not get into much trouble, this cannot happen with a ferret. If you leave a ferret on its own it could get stuck, injured or even poison itself by eating something that it shouldn't. If the ferret has to be left on its own for a period of time it is a good idea to put the ferret in a ferret cage. There is a huge range of ferret cages available on the market that cater to all sorts of ferret needs and the prices vary widely. The average cage size tends to be around 18" x 18" x 30" a cage of this size should have enough room for your ferret to move around in whilst being small enough to easily fit into the average house.</div>
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Caring for your ferret will involve spending time playing with your pet ferret. If you wish to keep your furry little friend entertained it is a good idea to pick up a few ferret friendly toys. There are literally hundreds of different toys available for ferrets in the market; some of them are great fun for the owner to play with. When choosing toys for your pet ferret it will be a good idea to choose something that is hard-wearing and durable. Ferrets, like cats, can play quite rough and if they are playing with a flimsy toy it will end up being destroyed within five minutes. The ferret is equipped with very sharp teeth and claws and they often use these when playing so any toy that cannot withstand being pounced on by a fast-moving ball of fur with teeth and claws is just a waste of money.</div>
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Ferrets are very intelligent creatures and are capable of being trained to carry out simple tasks. One thing that you can train them to do is to use a litter tray to do their business in. You will not have to buy a ferret specific litter tray as a basic cat litter tray will do the job. Teaching your ferret to use a litter tray will mean that you don't end up finding ferret droppings all over your house; it will also help to keep your ferret nice and clean too. There are various websites out there that can offer advice on ferret training and can give you some great tips about how to train your ferret to use a litter tray. When training your ferret to use the litter tray, it is a good idea to reward your ferret every time he does this will mean that your ferret will associate going to the toilet with getting praise and a treat. I used this method of rewarding a pet for good behavior on my cat when I first got it. </div>
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Every time my cat used the litter tray I would reward him with a catnip chocolate drop. Unfortunately, he realized that when he wanted a treat all he had to do was do his business so when he wanted a treat he would sit in the tray and would strain until the smallest amount of pee came out, then he would meow at me to fetch him his treats, I had to stop using this method because he was peeing every five minutes and I thought he would end up injuring himself. Luckily even though I stopped giving him the treats for every successful toilet trip he still learned that he must do his business in the litter tray. You can use the reward method to teach your ferret other tricks as well; my best friend taught his ferret to beg like a dog using treats. A popular belief is that getting ferret whilst it is young means that it will be easier to train than one that is older, whatever the age of the ferret you choose is up to you and training your ferret will be much easier the more time you spend with it.</div>
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Ferrets, like cats and dogs, require regular check-ups at the vets so that they can have their vaccinations to prevent them from getting ill. Also, the vet can keep an eye on your ferret's state of health and often the vet is a massive resource of animal care advice. If you have questions about caring for your ferret a vet would be an excellent person to talk to.</div>
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Ferrets each have their own personalities so your ferret may act differently to another person's ferret. Some ferrets will be mischievous some will be pig-headed and stubborn so every experience is different, if you are lucky you will end up with a ferret that will have a personality that compliments yours.</div>
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As you can see from this article caring for a ferret can be quite difficult but as long as you spend time with your ferret and feed it properly everything should work out fine. The internet is full of information about ferrets and there are a lot of helpful people on the net who can give you great advice about ferret care, so do not worry if your ferret is acting odd and you don't know why you can probably find out the answer on the internet.</div>
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By <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Dave_A_Loftus">Dave A Loftus</a> - Article Source: <b><a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?Ferret-Care---How-to-Care-for-Your-Pet-Ferret&id=5781928" target="_blank">EzineArticles</a></b>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-6277592912835645192020-08-09T12:15:00.003+02:002020-08-09T12:15:58.363+02:00Black Widow SPIDER<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><tbody>
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The black widow spider is probably the most famous and feared spider species in the world, and all the scary picture comes from the habit of the female spider to devour the male after mating. It is this specificity that is actually responsible for the name of the species as such, but there are plenty of other features that make the black widow spider stand out. </div>
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The most common color of this spider is dark brown or black with a red hourglass pattern on the body; the legs are hairy and the jaws seem very strong. There are several other varieties related to the black widow spider; they live in South Africa and Australia, and the major difference from the North American black one is of color: they are red and brown.</div>
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Even in North America, there are three different types of the black widow spider and their classification is made according to the geographical area where they live: there is the northern black widow, the southern black widow and the western black widow; thus the species is widely spread from the south of Canada to Mexico. Though there are some morphological differences, the three varieties are pretty much related and similar to each other.</div>
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Like many other venomous creatures, the black widow spider has bright red pattens on it as a warning sign for predators that would attempt to feed on it. The black widow spider is not capable of killing a bird that would eat it, but the digestive sickness that would follow will be definitely enough to make it avoid attacking the black widow again.</div>
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The female black widow spider is more venomous than the male, and it is she the biggest threat to predators. Nevertheless, the red color helps the males too in order to send the same threatening message as the female. While the males move freely in their habitat, the females usually spend their entire lives in just one place, as they very seldom leave their nests.</div>
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In terms of toxicity, the black widow spider has one of the most potent venoms in the animal world: it is actually fifteen times stronger than that of the rattlesnake for instance. It also surpasses the cobra and the coral snake in the effectiveness of the poison. Though death is not usually the outcome of a black widow bite, some dozens of cases have been reported over the last decades only in the United States. Nevertheless, on a more common basis, the black widow spider bite causes very serious symptoms and necrosis.</div>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-48641686923711722232020-08-02T12:54:00.002+02:002020-08-02T12:54:32.811+02:00GERBIL Care is Not That Difficult<div class="zemanta-img">
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Unlike the situation you face with many other small or exotic pets, gerbil care is not particularly demanding. While there are the usual requirements for food, housing, and a healthy environment for any type of pet, those for the gerbil are really quite straightforward and easy to put in place.</div>
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A gerbil once used to human contact, is a very sociable little creature, cute with a capital C, and enjoyable to watch as it goes about its daily activities. Before you even start thinking about food and housing, the first rule for gerbil care, and a very important one, is when purchasing a gerbil as a pet, purchase at least two. Two males or two females will be fine unless you're planning to breed them. Solitary gerbils make very unhappy pets, and often do not live long. Even if you have ample time to spend with one, they really need to be with another gerbil for companionship to be happy. So get two. If you do get a male and female, realize that gerbils breed like rabbits, only more so! Figure on 10 litters a year with 8-10 little gerbils per litter. Unless you have plenty of relatives or friends who would like a free gerbil or two (they don't cost or sell for much), best stick to a same-sex environment. Unlike some other animals, two males generally won't fight but will get on just fine.</div>
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A 10-gallon glass aquarium type enclosure is best for housing one or two gerbils. You'll need a wire mesh top, as the gerbil is a champion jumper. Wire cages are OK but should have a fine mesh so gerbil legs or tails won't get caught. Also, with a wire cage, you might find bedding scattered all over near the cage. Gerbils love to shred paper, especially cardboard. Toilet paper rolls or kitchen towel roils make fine toys, although they won't last long. A few wooden blocks or safe plastic chew toys will be a most welcome addition to their home.</div>
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Gerbils need a supply of clean water. A water bottle that hangs from the side of the cage is best. A water dish or bowl won't work at all. The same goes for a food dish. Feed your pet premixed gerbil food. Gerbils love sunflower seeds and an occasional peanut but use these as occasional treats only as they are fattening. Proper gerbil care dictates a diet that will not be too fattening. A fat gerbil will still be a cute gerbil, but not necessarily a healthy one. An occasional piece of apple or carrot to gnaw on is another good idea, but just don't leave it in the cage. Pieces of food will get buried in the bedding and tend to rot.</div>
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On the subject of bedding, give them an ample supply, as they love to dig in it, and it won't get wet so quickly. Aspen or corncob chips or shavings are best. Don't use pine or cedar shavings, as both can cause respiratory problems, especially with young gerbils. With proper housing, bedding, clean water and the right food, you're well on the way to doing an excellent job of proper gerbil care. The gerbil, as a rule, is a pretty hardy little guy and, when well cared for, will live out a typical 4-5 year life span in good health. Most respiratory ailments can be traced to improper bedding. Gerbils also will at times get fleas or mites, depending on the environment they are in. A pet store or veterinarian can recommend the proper spray to treat fleas or mites.</div>
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Wire cages or some toys can at times result in injury, a common one being a damaged or broken tail. A broken tail will often repair itself (make certain to remove the cause if you can). One rule in gerbil care never picks one up by the tail. The gerbil tail is not up to the task of supporting the gerbil's weight. Following these simple rules should give you not just many hours, but many years of enjoyment, with a very nice little pet.</div>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-21660795606287936922020-06-21T12:52:00.000+02:002020-06-21T12:52:00.613+02:00From PET MICE to Folkmanis Puppets - Mice Have Been Favorites Throughout History<div class="zemanta-img" style="text-align: justify;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: xx-small; text-align: start;">Pet Mice (Photo credit: </span><a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Fancy_mice.jpg" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;" target="_blank">Wikipedia</a><span style="font-size: xx-small; text-align: start;">)</span></i></td></tr>
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All domesticated mice come from the descendants of the common house mouse whose scientific name is Mus musculus. In fact, the word mouse comes from the Sanskrit word 'musha' which means thief. The origin of the common house mouse is Asia. Today, mice are now found throughout the world, and mice, in general, thrive where populations of people are present. The mouse is also a member of the rodent family of the order, Rodentia.</div>
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It is believed that mice began living with humans as long as 10,000 years ago. Association with humans and interaction seems to go back to the dawn of history. Archaeologists have also found Egyptian bowls and other artifacts that contain pictures of colored mice. These artifacts have indicated they kept mice as pets because they thought they possessed supernatural powers. They worshiped these animals and believed that they were born from the mud of the Nile and had healing properties. Other societies believed that mice could cure diseases including measles, whooping cough, and smallpox. Even Biblical references recorded included plagues of mice. And mice were also used in various other writings such as Aesop's Fables which are the basis for many modern-day puppet shows.</div>
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During the 1700s the mouse fancy really got its start. The earliest domesticated mice were kept in the royal palaces of Japan and China. In Japan, they were increasing in popularity as breeding animals and also pets. It was during this time that people were experimenting with breeding to produce new colors. 'The Breeding Of Curious Varieties Of The Mouse' booklet was written in 1878 by Chobei Zenya. This informational booklet included drawings and descriptions of variations on breeding programs. The booklet instructed breeders on how to create specific colors and varieties.</div>
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In the early 1800s popularity began to grow in Europe. In 1877 Walter Maxey, the father of the mouse fancy, acquired his first mice in the UK. Later in 1895, Maxey founded the National Mouse Club in England. This club set the standards for the different varieties and sponsored regular shows. The first show was in 1895 in Lincoln and was won by Miss Ursula Dickenson with a Dutch Oven. This affair with mice breeding eventually leads to the rediscovery of Mendel's theories on genetics by the scientific community.</div>
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Mice eventually made their way to the Americas by sailing across the seas and are believed to have been introduced to North America by Spanish sailors. The mouse attraction is relatively young in the United States. The first U.S.mouse clubs were founded in the 1950s. Lately, the American Fancy Rat and Mouse Association was founded in 1983. There are now several clubs in the United States and many more worldwide.</div>
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When most people think about pet mice they predictably think about the classic "white mice", but in fact there are well over 40 varieties. Most mothers are terrified at the thought of pet mice getting loose and scurrying around the home. Often these mothers prefer mice puppets and mice stuffed animals rather than the real thing. In fact, many manufacturers such as Folkmanis specialize in creating beautiful yet lifelike puppets and stuffed toys. Parents can use these puppets to teach their children the virtues of the mouse without enduring the clean-up.</div>
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The main feature of mice is their gnawing front teeth which continue to grow throughout their lives. These paired teeth are called incisors. Mice have poor vision and their activity patterns rely heavily on smell, taste, touch, and hearing. They are excellent jumpers and are capable of leaping at least 12 inches vertically. Female mice make the best pets because their urine does not smell like that of the male. Mice are nocturnal in nature and very social. They are active in the evening and night but mainly sleep during the day. They can breed as soon as 8 weeks old and can deliver a litter of up to 12 babies in three weeks. Mice can live for over two years while the average life expectancy is about 1.5-2 years.<br />
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The most commonly available type of mouse available as a pet is the domestic pet mouse and is the result of hundreds of generations of careful breeding. These mice have been selectively bred to be placid while enhancing the desirable qualities of the mice. They do not carry any diseases but also do not carry much of a chance of surviving in the wild if they were to escape.</div>
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This current economic recession has affected many people. People have less time, money and space available for animals. People are often turning to pocket pets such as mice as an ideal low-cost and low-maintenance alternative to having pets in their busy lives. Pet mice, both real and plush provide an outlet and a means to admire the virtues of the mouse.</div>
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By <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Tracy_Quick">Tracy Quick</a> - Article Source: <b><a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?From-Pet-Mice-to-Folkmanis-Puppets---Mice-Have-Been-Favorites-Throughout-History&id=6161539" target="_blank">EzineArticles</a></b></ul>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-54975779674861817312020-06-14T13:31:00.002+02:002020-06-14T13:31:38.978+02:00Fascinating SYRIAN HAMSTER Facts<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Sable short-haired Syrian Hamster. <br />(Photo credit: </span><a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Cashew_sable_syrian_hamster.jpg" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;" target="_blank">Wikipedia</a><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">)</span></i></td></tr>
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Although there are several types of hamsters occurring in the wild, only five are commonly kept as household pets. And though there are several differences between the breeds that make them each unique, there are traits common to all hamsters, regardless of type. Chief among these traits is lifespan - the average hamster has a lifespan of roughly 1000 days, or just a little under three years, with male hamsters living on average just a bit longer than females.</div>
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All hamsters have cheek pouches which they use to carry food, or in cases of danger, they're young. Also common among all hamsters is the presence of scent glands, although the location of these glands differs depending on the type of hamster.</div>
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All hamsters reach breeding age in roughly 6-8 weeks, with a very short pregnancy lasting only 15 days. The size of the litter averages about 6-8 pups. As you may already know, hamsters are very susceptible to stress, with new mothers being particularly so. If this occurs it's not unusual for the new mother to eat her newborn pups, so it's important to keep stress to an absolute minimum for new hamster mothers.</div>
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One of the most common pet hamster breeds, the Syrian hamster is also commonly known as the Teddy Bear hamster, Fancy hamster, and the Golden hamster, among others. Syrian hamsters grow to full size of about 7 inches in length, with the females usually a bit longer than the males.</div>
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If you buy a Syrian from the pet store you may see several young Syrian hamsters kept in the same cage - this is very misleading as Syrian hamsters are extremely territorial and will fight to the death with any other hamster they are caged with. The only reason the Syrian hamsters you see in pet stores aren't fighting when you buy them is that they don't develop their territorial nature until about age 6 weeks. After that, the rule is <b>one Syrian hamster per cage!</b></div>
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Here's a story from Tammy Crum, a well-respected hamster breeder:</div>
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<i>"A previous partner of mine used a shelving system to store the hamster, with Syrians on top. They were in a fish tank and somehow got out landed in a tank with Roborovskis. Needless to say that by the time he discovered the missing culprit all the Robs were dead."</i></div>
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Given their large size, Syrian hamsters are more easily held for longer periods of time than dwarf hamsters as they tend not to tire as easily. Another interesting fact about Syrian hamsters is that, even though they have the nickname Golden hamster, they come in over 40 different color types. This is achieved through today's advanced breeding techniques, allowing for a range of color and fur length.</div>
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Most Syrian hamsters, like all other hamster breeds, do not require any grooming on your part. The only exception to this is the Long Haired Syrian hamster. In this case, a simple toothbrush can be used to remove any bedding material that may be caught up in his fur.</div>
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By <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Adam_King">Adam King</a> - Article Source: <b><a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?Fascinating-Syrian-Hamster-Facts&id=766186" target="_blank">EzineArticles</a></b><br />
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-38700398287943332482020-05-10T12:35:00.002+02:002020-05-10T12:35:49.177+02:00Your Pet Chinchilla And Environmental Stress<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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Environmental stress can affect your pet chinchilla in different ways. This type of stress results in either health or behavioral issues. Your pet can experience the following: anti-social behavior that includes biting, fighting, spraying urine, fungus, or irritation of the eyes. Your pet can also feel angst toward other chinchillas, biting the fur, gnawing on their cage, or even depression. </div>
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Unless you know in advance, you won't necessarily detect that one of these actions can come from environmental stress. You usually find out when behavior or illness becomes a chronic issue. If you are not aware of the issues of environmental stress, your pet may be more prone to suffer the after-effects.</div>
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If your pet is hyper, environmental stress will just compound the way they're already feeling. In order for them to get a grip, behavioral rehabilitation would help them regain their footing. Of course, if your pet is already easy-going, then rehabilitation is not necessary. Environmental stress can affect how the chinchilla was treated, before and now. Environmental stress can affect your animal if they were abused or handled badly. This in turn, can cause them to exhibit anti-social tendencies towards the next owner. </div>
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If your pet is experiencing boredom, this may eventually suffer from stress. Your pet should be in an environment where there is some movement and noise. On the other hand, enduring constant loud noise can take its toll on them, also. It's better for them to have noise, but it should be at a moderate level. This way, if they do experience noise out of the ordinary, such as people, thunderstorms, etc., they'll know how to handle it. Your pet has to have a happy medium between the two extremes (boredom and chaotic noise).</div>
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Your pet will have to make adjustments if they came from an environment where there was boredom or chaos. They'll have to make adjustments to the unfamiliar and unknown. Like a human being, your pet will feel strange because all they know at the moment is the environment to which they were accustomed to. It may take your pet at least a week to regroup. You can help by putting them in a quiet room with some soft jazz music. There should be no other pets in the house while your pet is getting acclimated to different surroundings, including the owner.</div>
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Giving your pet this transition time is crucial and imperative because if they came from a chaotic environment, they will have to learn to relax and if they came from a boredom environment, they must have time to get in the groove to handle noise in a timely manner. If they take on too much too quickly, your pet can get overwhelmed, causing additional stress.</div>
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You will have to learn to be sensitive to their needs and get a sense of when they might be ready. It's always best to start out small and gradual, then work your way up with your chinchilla. This way, your pet can accept the gradual transition with ease. </div>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-81642836526660729792020-04-26T16:19:00.000+02:002020-04-26T16:19:05.944+02:00Can I Give My FERRET Raw Chicken?<div class="zemanta-img">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Domestic ferret (Mustela putorius furo)<br />(Photo credit: </span><a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Fretts_301004_selbstfotografiert%2C_GNU-FDL.jpg" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;" target="_blank">Wikipedia</a><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">)</span></td></tr>
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If one of your new pets is a ferret and you would like it to grow up active and strong like other pets in your home, you are probably asking yourself this question: "Can I give my ferret raw chicken?" Well, the answer to that question is a big yes. The fact is that ferrets are carnivores by nature and therefore, they should eat meat in order to survive.</div>
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Since they are carnivores, most ferrets will definitely enjoy chicken meat comfortably, whether cooked or raw. However, if your ferret has never been fed on any raw meat before, he might experience stomach upset. Therefore, it is very advisable to start feeding your ferret on raw meat as early as possible so that he can get used to it.</div>
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Compared to other types of meat, chicken is probably ferreted' favorite. This means that your ferret wouldn't mind eating a huge chunk of chicken meat and chewing all the available soft bones. Apart from helping in cleaning your pet's teeth, raw chicken bones also play a major role in providing the much-needed dietary calcium.</div>
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Due to the fact that ferrets have highly acidic stomachs, you do need to worry that the bones may choke your pet or that he may get intestinal damage. As a matter of fact, ferrets are known to have quite high metabolisms, explaining why they are slender and active at all times.</div>
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While feeding your ferret raw chicken, you need to be very careful. Do not offer him meat straight chilled from the fridge as he may not find it appetizing. You should also avoid giving him processed foods such as pre-cooked cold chicken because it will contain too much salt.</div>
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To create a balanced diet and avoid monotony, do not feed your ferret on raw chicken alone. Try including other types of quality pet foods such as kibbles, eggs, bacon, cat food, and dry pellets. If you wish to feed your ferret on raw meat alone for a long time, it is very advisable to add a number of vital supplements such as taurine to avoid cardiomyopathy and calcium to avoid osteodystrophy.</div>
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Most importantly, do not forget to give your ferret enough water daily. Since ferrets like drinking water from a bowl better than they do from a water bottle, make sure you change the water on a regular basis for him to drink fresh and clean water whenever he needs it.</div>
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By <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Faith_Kaltenbach">Faith Kaltenbach</a> - Article Source: <b><a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?Can-I-Give-My-Ferret-Raw-Chicken?&id=8127406" target="_blank">EzineArticles</a></b>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-56193948029105310862020-02-23T12:05:00.001+01:002020-02-23T12:05:39.549+01:00GUINEA PIGS – Not Pigs, Not From Guinea and Not For Sale!<div class="zemanta-img" style="text-align: justify;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Guinea pig <br />(Photo credit: </span><a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Guineabath.JPG" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;" target="_blank">Wikipedia</a><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">)</span></i></td></tr>
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Despite their name; did you know that the guinea pig is neither a pig, nor does it come from the Republic of Guinea? In fact they don't come from anywhere near West Africa, and originate from the Andes in South America. They are also not universally known as the fluffy squeaking household pet we know and love in Western Europe!</div>
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<b>Fact File</b>
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• Species: Cavia porcellus
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• Common Name: Guinea Pig or Cavy
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• Geography: Andes, South America
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• Order: Rodentia
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• Suborder: Hystricomorpha
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• Family: Caviidae
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• Subfamily: Caviinae
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• Genus: Cavia
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• Weight: 0.7 to 1.2 kg
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•Length: 20 to 25 cm
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<b>Origins</b>
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The guinea pig was domesticated as a source of food by a native from the Andean region (modern-day Colombia, Ecuador and Peru) in around 5000 BC. It is still a delicacy in the highland regions, living off family food scraps.
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European history wasn’t graced by the Guinea Pig’s presence until a series of 16th century English, Spanish and Dutch expeditions brought home guinea pigs for European eyes, where they were quickly taken as exotic household pets by the rich and famous.
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Strangely, however, recent excavations on Puerto Rico and other West Indian islands show that the Guinea Pig must have been bred (and presumably eaten) long before the arrival of the Spanish.
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<b>Lab Rats</b>
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Since the 17th century, the guinea pig has been used as the subject of scientific research. Early examples of this were vivisection to establish anatomy, and bizarrely to assess the chemical combustion of respiration, where 17th-century scientists recorded that the heat from guinea pig breath melted snow, therefore proving that heat was generated from the digestion of food.
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<b>A Source of Food</b>
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Guinea pigs were originally foodstuff in the Andes and is now commonly found cooked and for sale in Peru, Ecuador, Colombia and Bolivia, particularly in the highland regions. High in protein and low in fat and cholesterol, it is reported to taste like a rabbit or chicken thigh.
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<b>Popular Culture</b>
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Perhaps due to their popularity as pets in Western Europe, the guinea pig has become a star of the cuddly animal variety, often appearing as characters in books, cartoons and movies; particularly aimed at children.
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Literature:
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• The Fairy Caravan, a novel by Beatrix Potter
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• Michael Bond's Olga da Polga series
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• The Magician's Nephew by C. S. Lewis
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• Pigs Is Pigs by Ellis Parker Butler
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• Star Trek: The Original Series episode "The Trouble with Tribbles", written by David Gerrold, and based on Pigs Is Pigs
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• Golden Hamster Saga books
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Film and television
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• Shredderman Rules
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• Dr. Dolittle (1998)
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• Nick Jr.'s Wonder Pets
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• South Park season 12 episode "Pandemic 2: The Startling"
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• G-Force
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Advertising
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• Egg Banking plc
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• Snapple
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• Blockbuster Video
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<b>Pigs in Space</b>
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Yes, that’s right - guinea pigs are amongst the few species to have traveled into space – and survived! In fact, they were amongst the earliest successful space travelers (before humans) and traveled on Sputnik 9 biosattelite in 1961 with a safe arrival back in the USSR, and more recently on a Chinese biosattelite in 1990.
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Submitted by: Richard Chilcot<br />
About the Author: Richard Chilcot is an author specialising in <a href="http://www.freeads.co.uk/uk/buy__sell/pets/guinea_pigs/">guinea pigs for sale</a> and other classified animal subjects, particularly in Scotland, Wales, Essex and Plymouth.
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Source: <a href="https://www.isnare.com/">www.isnare.com</a>
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Permanent Link: <a href="https://www.isnare.com/?aid=943154&ca=Pets">https://www.isnare.com/?aid=943154&ca=Pets</a></ul>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-14090297888164113672019-03-29T16:02:00.001+01:002019-03-29T16:02:41.143+01:00Prevent Your Pet CHINCHILLA From Experiencing Environmental Stress<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Chinchilla-mange.JPG" rel="nofollow" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Chinchillas, rodents and pets" class="zemanta-img-configured" height="432" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/ce/Chinchilla-mange.JPG/350px-Chinchilla-mange.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Chinchillas, rodents and pets <br />(Photo credit: </span><a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Chinchilla-mange.JPG" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;" target="_blank">Wikipedia</a><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">)</span></td></tr>
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There are ways you can prevent your pet chinchilla from experiencing environmental stress. You as the owner should make sure all their needs are satisfied. You should also make sure that you are reliable enough to take care of their needs. Your pet depends on you to take care of them physically and emotionally.</div>
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Make sure the cage is large enough where they can run around and play. Be sure to include a wheel where they can exercise, some toys they can chew on and a hideaway. All of these items can prevent your pet from being bored and stressed out. You should also cover their cage will also help them be less stressed and provide a sense of security. Make sure they get their daily exercise away from their cage. This helps them to be able to roam around and not be holed up 24 hours a day. This by itself can be stressful because they'll feel locked into one entity, which would be their cage.</div>
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If you must employ a change with your pet in the way of ownership, living arrangements or meeting other chinchillas, introduce it gradually. Your pet will be more accepting of a slower process than they would of a quick and rash one. A quick and rash one does nothing but contributes to more unnecessary stress.</div>
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Added stress can contribute to shock. In your pet's case, this happens when they feel they can't consume the magnitude of what's going on around them. The chinchilla feels their situation is out of control and can't be corrected. They're unable to digest the scenario. This type of shock can result in immediate declining health and/or death; sometimes, they may decline slowly and eventually expire. Stress-related shock doesn't happen often, but if your pet has hyperactivity, they'll more likely to experience it.</div>
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It's normal for your pet to be wary of the unknown. Eventually, they'll learn to adjust. Chinchillas are used to routines. They like to stay in the land of familiar surroundings and not rock the boat. They don't particularly care for challenges, especially when it means making a change that affects them directly and swiftly. If they have to, they will change, but they prefer to remain uninterrupted. If they are in an unsafe environment, then it is essential that changes are made. Eventually, your pet will appreciate your efforts to move them into better surroundings.</div>
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Your pet prefers to be in a setting where they're not threatened by change. However, if they do have to change scenery, the most important thing is that they have time to get adjusted. Depending on how old they are and their health status, some chinchillas adjust faster than others. The biting of fur would occur mostly in an older animal. This may come from having another animal in the house. The older one would feel that their territory was being invaded.</div>
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Changes that would make your pet feel happy are a new cage, television or a new movie or a new chew toy. More times than not, they would welcome these with open arms. If in the event, any of these items don't satisfy them and cause stress, you'll have to make some adjustments so they can adapt and eliminate the stress. </div>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-51631394705717042542019-01-11T09:51:00.001+01:002019-01-11T09:51:33.969+01:00Got A PET RAT? Some Helpful Tips About Pet Rats - Pet Rat Health, Pet Rat Training, and Pet Rat Car<div class="zemanta-img" style="text-align: justify;">
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However, more people than commonly thought to own a pet rat, or even several pet rats - often nicknamed fancy rats. If you have arrived here you may own one or some already, or thinking of owning one, or simply want to know more about the fancy rat. Whichever is true, you should know that pet rats are more delicate than some might think, and caring for them requires a lot of attention to detail. Here you will learn some tips about attending to pet rat health, which pet rat cages are best and how they should be prepared for your pet rat, and general tips about pet rat care and pet rat training.</div>
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In order to house your pet rat, care must be taken to which cage you choose and how to prepare it. The cage should be large enough so that your fancy rat has room to run around. It should be made to provide an environment of different activities for your pet rat - toys to play with and keep your fancy rat interested are very important, for example, because fancy rats can literally get sick with boredom. The cage should also have places in which your pet rat can snuggle and rest, and preferably something it can climb. The cage floor should be properly bedded with newspaper or some fabric. Keep an eye on the cleanliness of the cage as well - clean it on a weekly basis, at least.</div>
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Which toys should you use in the pet rat cage? well, pet rats have personalities, and each pet rat is different. An old tennis ball can be good for one, a wooden ring to chew on can be good for the other. At the end of this article, you will find a pointer to the source of an abundance of ideas for pet rat toys. However, just like with a child, your pet rat can have all the toys in the world - but nothing would match up to some quality time with you. So make time to play with your pet rats. Pet rats are also good companions for each other - if you put more than one of them in the same cage (if the cage is big enough, of course) they'll be able to play with each other, and that will make their lives much better and more interesting.</div>
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Pet rat care begins with what you feed them with. Rats can eat pretty much everything, but in order to keep your pet rat healthy, there are certain things you can do with regards to their diet. You can feed them ready-made mouse food that you buy in a shop, but make sure you diversify it with bits of fresh fruit and vegetables (except citrus fruit which is bad, especially to males). Trial and error will tell you which foods your pet rat loves best - like I said, rats have personalities, and each one is different. You can sometimes even spoil your pet rats with a sweet delicacy such as a dog biscuit if you find they like it. You can also hide food in their cages for them to look for. Water should be given in a drip bottle attached to the wiring of the cage - make sure water never runs out.</div>
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A healthy diet, without overfeeding, will generally keep your pet rat healthy. But pet rat health requires attention in other aspects too. For example, pet rats are very sensitive to heat or cold. They should be given worm cloth to snuggle in during cold days, and fed cold food (such as frozen veggies) on hot days.</div>
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If your pet rat does not act like its usual self (particularly if it's much quieter or more indifferent than usual), if it does not drink or eat normally, or if it sneezes often or shows signs of breathing difficulty - it may be sick. If you notice a lump in your pet rat's body, that may be a sign of serious illness. Rats may also contract skin diseases or worms in their digestive systems. Whatever the symptoms are, the best thing to do is to when you notice something out of the ordinary is to take it to the vet, the sooner the better.</div>
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What about pet rat training? Is that even possible? Of course it is! That is the fun part. Rats are very intelligent animals. They catch on fast, they are curious, and they aim to please.</div>
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Don't push your pet rat too much in training or teaching trick. Be patient. This is not a race.</div>
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Rats can be trained to litter at particular places in their cage, and save you some trouble cleaning it. You can create a corner with some special bedding for that, place older litter in it so your pet rats can smell it. If there are certain places in the cage your pet rats prefer to litter at their own will, don't fight them. Create that litter tray where they prefer it to be.</div>
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Pet rats can be taught many things - to come to you when you call their names, stand on their hind legs and clap the forepaws, and so much more. Their reward is mainly food, and praise from you. Be patient, it takes time.</div>
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<td><ul> By <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Ian_Catlin">Ian Catlin</a> - Article Source: <b><a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?Got-A-Pet-Rat?-Some-Helpful-Tips-About-Pet-Rats---Pet-Rat-Health,-Pet-Rat-Training,-and--Pet-Rat-Car&id=1076790" target="_blank">EzineArticles</a></b>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-23213136808266094022019-01-04T11:21:00.000+01:002019-01-04T11:21:24.391+01:00Raising Baby Ferrets<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: <a href="https://pixabay.com/en/ferret-feeding-bottle-2689201/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Pixabay</a></td></tr>
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Ferrets can be purchased from a breeder or adopted from a shelter even when they are young. Baby ferrets are better known as kits and if you choose to get a male, it is called a hob while a female is called a Jill. </div>
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When you acquire them, they have already been weaned and they now need adult nourishment. Since their teeth are not yet sharp enough to chew anything, it is best to soak the food in warm water for 5 to 10 minutes before this is given. You must never give them cat food because studies have shown that this causes health problems. </div>
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Kits need more fat and protein than kittens. This is because they have a short gastrointestinal tract and a rapid intestinal transit time which means it takes some time for the food to pass through the stomach and into the intestines. When you are looking for the right food product to buy, look at the label and see to it that this contains 35% protein and 20% of fat. </div>
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The baby ferrets need a balance of meat and poultry products as this will decrease the risk later of urinary tract obstructions later on in life. Aside from that, they must also be given water constantly either in a dish or bottle. </div>
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As the baby ferrets grow older, you can give them occasional snacks such as bananas, crackers and raisins but only in small amounts.</div>
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Aside from food, baby ferrets should be housed in a cage. This should be big enough to let them move around and be easy for you to clean. There should also be sufficient bar spacing so they are not able to escape. It must also have a large door so the kit will not have a hard time getting in or out. </div>
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The bottom of the cage should have a plastic bottom so you can easily clean it. This will allow you to change the bedding or simply wash it. If buying one is expensive, you can make one by sewing a few scraps together and putting it inside. </div>
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When the ferrets are still young, you should already begin toilet training them. This will enable them to put their waste in a litter box instead on your carpet. The best way to do this is by putting a small amount of waste in the box and when they do this correctly, you give them a snack as a reward. You should be careful not to punish or hurt them when they are still learning because these creatures do bite back. </div>
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Eventually, they will get a hang of it and to protect your home and your pet, it is best to ferret-proof your home to prevent any untoward incidents. </div>
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One of the things that a baby ferret needs are a toy to play with. There are plenty of these in the market. Just make sure that they can withstand the ferret’s sharp teeth. In fact, some baby toys and rattlers are fun for them to play with so you should supervise how they use it because they will eventually eat their way through it. </div>
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Baby ferrets need constant love and attention. Don’t forget to also bring them to the vet for vaccinations and anti-rabies shots so they will be able to stay with you for a long period of time. </div>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-60297406438485212912018-10-24T11:27:00.001+02:002018-10-24T11:27:26.573+02:00What to Do When FERRETS Bite Hard<div class="zemanta-img" style="text-align: justify;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">A picture of a ferret's teeth, very white and in good condition <br />(Photo credit: </span><a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Buffy_teeth.jpg" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;" target="_blank">Wikipedia</a><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">)</span></td></tr>
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Ferrets bite hard. That’s not an option, but it’s a sad risk ferret owners have to consider. It can happen to anybody at any time with a nearby ferret. But there’s no need to panic. Most bites are not as harmful but still, precautionary measures must be taken properly. </div>
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<b>A Quick Look on Ferret’s Teeth Structure</b></div>
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Ferrets’ teeth are in many ways synonymous to human teeth. But the lethal part in the ferret’s dentures would have to be the tip of their canines. That is the sharp part that some owners decide to cut off at the outset of its growth to avoid ferret bits from plaguing the whole ferret experience.</div>
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The good thing is that ferrets’ canine tips can naturally break off from excessive biting of objects. Giving them hard toys they can chew, for example, can help eliminate the threat of its sharp canines. </div>
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Ferret Bite Quick Tip 1: Assess the extent of the damage. If bitten, the very first thing to do would be to assess the depth of the bite. If it is just a minor scratch, clean the wounds but do not make any dismissive presumptions. In the case where you are confronted with a major bite, you need to have it checked immediately. </div>
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Ferret Bite Quick Tip 2: Clean the wound immediately with your first aid kit. Cover it afterward. Having a first aid kit would be very beneficial for both you and your pet ferret. Wash with soap and water, clean it with peroxide, cover it with gauze and if all else fails to proceed to the next step. Note the color of the wound and make sure that the blood flows for a considerable amount of time before cleaning it up. </div>
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Ferret Bite Quick Tip 3: Go to the nearest doctor. Seeking the help of a medical professional will help you have the objective assessment of the wound. It will also ensure that you did not acquire any infections from the ferret bite. </div>
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Ferret Bite Quick Tip 4: Have the ferret checked by the veterinarian. It is not just you who needs to be checked but you also need the help of your veterinarian to have your ferret checked. You also have to have the dentures of your ferret checked to see if there are any remnants of the skin or anything unusual that came from the bite. This is to ensure that both your health and the ferret’s health remain uncompromised. </div>
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Ferret Bite Quick Tip 5: In the case where one ferret bites another, have them both checked and keep them in separate cages until the tension dissipates. In the case of a ferret to ferret bites, you will have to have both of them checked with a veterinarian. If at all possible, analyze the causes of hostile behavior. Eventually, you may have to combine them in a single place again but make sure that this is done with utmost care and in a gradual manner. </div>
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Ferret Bite Quick Tip 6: Furnish your first aid kit immediately for both humans and ferrets. </div>
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Your ferrets must also have their own first aid kit, furnished with pretty much the same thing that the human first aid kit has except that all the objects are downsized to suit your furry creatures.</div>
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Exert caution in treating wounds of your ferrets, otherwise, they will see it as an attack and bite you as you treat it. </div>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-52859869698807329162018-10-08T12:34:00.001+02:002018-10-08T12:35:46.647+02:00How To Re-home Your CHINCHILLA<div class="zemanta-img">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Domestic chinchillas (Chinchilla lanigera x chinchilla brevicaudata)<br />(Photo credit: </span><a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChinchillaKS-zoom.jpg" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;" target="_blank">Wikipedia</a><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">)</span></td></tr>
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Re-homing your <a amzn-ps-bm-asin="1910547026" class="amzn_ps_bm_tl" data-amzn-link-id="38ae4cc76ec3358fdde468d7b8fbde45" data-amzn-ps-bm-keyword="chinchilla" href="http://www.amazon.com/Chinchilla-Guide-Enjoying-Chinchillas-Covers/dp/1910547026/ref=as_li_bk_tl/?tag=dogandcatatho-20&linkId=38ae4cc76ec3358fdde468d7b8fbde45&linkCode=ktl" id="amznPsBmLink_4915436" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">chinchilla</a><img alt="" border="0" height="0" id="amznPsBmPixel_4915436" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?source=bk&t=dogandcatatho-20&bm-id=default&l=ktl&linkId=38ae4cc76ec3358fdde468d7b8fbde45&_cb=1449574139818" style="border: none !important; height: 0px !important; margin: 0px !important; padding: 0px !important; width: 0px !important;" width="0" /> is not necessarily a delight to accomplish. However, if you are in a situation where you can no longer properly care for your chinchilla, the best thing to do is to seek out someone who can give it the love and care that they need. It will break your heart to let your pet go, especially if you've become bonded to it. It's also better if you let someone else handle it rather than let it suffer and die. </div>
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You can start your search by placing classified advertisements in the section designated for exotic animals or <a amzn-ps-bm-asin="1910085057" class="amzn_ps_bm_tl" data-amzn-link-id="7fbe53087caa3859120c3592d5db5b4d" data-amzn-ps-bm-keyword="chinchillas" href="http://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Chinchilla-Chinchillas-Passionate-Chinchilla/dp/1910085057/ref=as_li_bk_tl/?tag=dogandcatatho-20&linkId=7fbe53087caa3859120c3592d5db5b4d&linkCode=ktl" id="amznPsBmLink_1221944" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">chinchillas</a><img alt="" border="0" height="0" id="amznPsBmPixel_1221944" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?source=bk&t=dogandcatatho-20&bm-id=default&l=ktl&linkId=7fbe53087caa3859120c3592d5db5b4d&_cb=1449573961148" style="border: none !important; height: 0px !important; margin: 0px !important; padding: 0px !important; width: 0px !important;" width="0" />. Make sure you let them know that there is an adoption fee attached. You should set the fee at a starting price of $50.00. It has been advised that you should set it higher than that. This way, you will weed out the freebie seekers or cheapos. These types of people are usually not interested in taking care of a chinchilla; they just want to purchase it for their own corrupt whims.</div>
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The purpose of the adoption fees is to see if the candidate can properly and is financially able to take care of an exotic pet such as a chinchilla. Chinchillas need routine care not only from you, but also from a specialized veterinarian. When you're dealing with specialties, that usually costs more than general things. If the interested person has an adverse reaction to the fees, then that's a strike against him. You'll know that they're not interested in the chinchilla's well being. You want to make sure that the person getting your pet is the most qualified.</div>
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Find out how long this person has been taking care of chinchillas. Did they keep them healthy and active? Ask them what kind of food did they feed them. Let them know what brand of pellets and hay you used, in the event, it's different from what they use for their pets. If they already have a chinchilla, will they try to get them together as mates?</div>
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Find out more information about trying to have more than one chinchilla in the same household. Find out about their veterinarian and how he or she takes care of their chinchilla(s). Does he or she have the best interest of the pet in mind? If the person were to go on vacation or had an emergency, is there someone available who is knowledgeable in taking care of chinchillas?</div>
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If they can answer your concerns and you feel comfortable with them, then your chinchilla may have a new owner and a new home. Before the prospect signs on the dotted line, take your chinchilla over there to see if they will adapt to their new environment.</div>
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The place should be clean and free from a lot of noise. <a amzn-ps-bm-asin="B0016285CG" class="amzn_ps_bm_tl" data-amzn-link-id="cf5845f0f9fb6f3b1ea80b80356c21ef" data-amzn-ps-bm-keyword="Chinchillas" href="http://www.amazon.com/Chinchilla-Plush-Toy-By-Hansa/dp/B0016285CG/ref=as_li_bk_tl/?tag=dogandcatatho-20&linkId=cf5845f0f9fb6f3b1ea80b80356c21ef&linkCode=ktl" id="amznPsBmLink_2485668" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Chinchillas</a><img alt="" border="0" height="0" id="amznPsBmPixel_2485668" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?source=bk&t=dogandcatatho-20&bm-id=default&l=ktl&linkId=cf5845f0f9fb6f3b1ea80b80356c21ef&_cb=1449573976199" style="border: none !important; height: 0px !important; margin: 0px !important; padding: 0px !important; width: 0px !important;" width="0" /> aren't comfortable with excessive noise in their domain and it's easy for them to get infections. See how your pet interacts with them. If they do well and pass the test, then you probably have a winner. If your pet clams up and doesn't get comfortable, then you may have to continue looking.</div>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-7951089517318785992018-08-20T11:39:00.002+02:002018-08-20T11:39:46.963+02:00MICE As Pets - The Perfect Low Maintenance Pet That Will Even Learn Tricks<div class="zemanta-img" style="text-align: justify;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">A female fancy mouse with her litter (Photo credit: </span><a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mouse_litter.jpg" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;" target="_blank">Wikipedia</a><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">)</span></td></tr>
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Mice are a popular choice of pet and unlike their generally bad reputation can be very sociable, intelligent and clean. The most popular type of mouse to have as a pet is the regular domestic mouse which is available at almost any pet store. More specialized types of mice are also available. Pet mice owners believe mice to make the perfect pets because they are fairly low-maintenance, do not make a loud noise and are sociable animals. </div>
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When you purchase a mouse you will obviously have to choose a suitable home for it. The most popular type of housing for mice is the metal cage with a solid floor. This will allow your mouse to grip and climb up and down the walls of the cage. You will need to put a soft layer of hay, shavings or shredded paper on the floor of your mouse's cage. This will have to be cleared out at least once a week to prevent the cage turning smelly. You can equip your mouse's home with toys and play objects fairly cheaply, by adding decorations like pipes, through which they can tunnel, blocks, running wheels and empty cartons. Mice are nocturnal animals and so love to run around and play at night.</div>
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While the best type of food that you can feed your mouse will be available at your local pet store, you can also give your pet other alternatives like, leafy vegetables, carrots, celery, cereal and even certain types of worms. Beware that there are some foods that you should never feed your mouse. These include; peanuts, uncooked meat, citrus fruits, such as lemons and oranges, as well as garlic. If you feed your mouse a new type of food product and notice that it develops diarrhoea or skin irritations you should seek veterinary advice as soon as possible.</div>
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Much like a cat or dog your pet mouse can also be taught tricks like coming when it is called. After exercising a little patience and trial and error, you will see that your mouse will quickly dispel those rumours that they are un-intelligent animals.</div>
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<td><ul>By <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Anne_Brite">Anne Brite</a> - Article Source: <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?Mice-As-Pets---The-Perfect-Low-Maintenance-Pet-That-Will-Even-Learn-Tricks&id=2951482" target="_blank"><b>EzineArticles</b></a><br />
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-29213073721264222872018-08-01T12:01:00.000+02:002018-08-01T12:01:03.325+02:00The Origins and History of RATS<div class="zemanta-img">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:White_rat_at_the_temple_of_Karni_Mata.jpg" rel="nofollow" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="English: Spotted a white rat at Karni Mata's t..." class="zemanta-img-configured" height="438" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a7/White_rat_at_the_temple_of_Karni_Mata.jpg/350px-White_rat_at_the_temple_of_Karni_Mata.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Spotted a white rat at Karni Mata's temple. <br />(Photo credit: </span><a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:White_rat_at_the_temple_of_Karni_Mata.jpg" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;" target="_blank">Wikipedia</a><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">)</span></td></tr>
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Rats have not always been the fun, multi-coloured, patterned little pets that we see or own today. There are many different species and they can be found more or less all over the world. They play a major part in history and religions worldwide, as well as in today's modern society. This article aims to explore the history of rats in various different cultures.</div>
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Let's begin with the origins. Rats are rodents of the Muroidea family. As rodents, their teeth grow continuously and they need to gnaw things on a regular basis to prevent their teeth from overgrowing and causing painful damage to their heads. They are not picky in what the gnaw, they can even gnaw through concrete and steel and are reputed to have a biting pressure of up to 7000lbs per square inch.</div>
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Many rodents and small mammals are described as rats although they are not 'True rats', an example of these include the North American Pack Rat and the Kangaroo Rat. 'True Rats' are rats which fall into the Latin genus Rattus, the most common of these being the Black Rat - Rattus Rattus and the Brown Rat - Rattus Norvegicus. These two rats are the best known and most important to humans. The Black Rat is timider and less seen compared to the Brown Rat. This is mainly due to the Brown Rat driving out the Black rat, taking over its habitat and competing for its food. Many other species have also become endangered through competition with both the Black and Brown Rat. Fancy Rats are of the Rattus Norvegicus species, the same as sewer rats!</div>
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Rats are distinguished from mice by their size, mice generally being smaller and lighter. This is not an entirely accurate way to determine the class, as some rats can have the characteristics of mice and vice versa. As new species are being discovered the standard classifications can be confusing.</div>
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Brown Rats originated in Asia in the grasslands of China. They began to spread across Europe in 1553 and arrived in the US in 1775 after hiding away and travelling on cargo ships. Black Rats arrived in Britain long before the Brown Rat although there is no specific record of an exact time. Reports of bones found in London indicate that the Black Rat lived there as early as the mid-third century A.D and in York in the 5th Century A.D.</div>
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Today's rat is opportunistic and lives near to humans, quite often in their houses! This has caused them to become classed as pests. Since one pair of rats can produce up to 300 young per year, many places have become overrun with the mischievous little critters.</div>
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Most people don't realize that rats are a lot more complicated and interesting than they are portrayed. They live in colonies which contain complex hierarchies, where they form deep bonds, often risking their own lives to save family and friends. They are highly social, very intelligent and possess psychological traits very similar to humans.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Rattus_norvegicus_1.jpg" rel="nofollow" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="English: Rattus norvegicus, the Brown Rat. Deu..." class="zemanta-img-configured" height="640" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/01/Rattus_norvegicus_1.jpg" width="474" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Rattus norvegicus, the Brown Rat.<br />(Photo credit: </span><a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Rattus_norvegicus_1.jpg" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;" target="_blank">Wikipedia</a><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">)</span></td></tr>
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A group of rats are known as a pack, or more aptly a 'mischief'. The males are referred to as bucks, females as does and the young as pups or kittens. Domesticated rats differ greatly to their wild counterparts, with smaller hearts, brains, livers, kidneys and adrenal glands. They are also more prone to illness, possibly due to inbreeding.</div>
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These animals are usually portrayed as being dirty and diseased, though it is not true. Rats are constantly cleaning and grooming themselves and other pack members. Wild rats are generally robust and healthy, though city dwelling rats have poor diets and can have internal parasites. These cannot be passed on to humans. In fact, rats have very few zoonotic conditions. The most well known of these is Leptospirosis which is also known as Weil's disease and infects the liver, although this is very rare.</div>
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Rats have spread all over the world and are worshipped in many cultures. Though in the Western world they are still frowned upon, possibly because of their association with the Black Plague which I will talk about later on.</div>
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First, let's look at India, where rats are treated like royalty. In the North West Indian city of Deshnoke, there stands an ornate temple dedicated to Karni Mata, the rat Goddess. Many people in our society would describe the interior of the temple as horrifying, but to a rat lover such as myself, the contents are both wondrous and beautiful.</div>
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Thousands of furry brown bodies writhe across the floor and scurry up the intricate gold and silver work that lines the walls. The temple is overrun with rats, there are well over 20,000. It is the duty of the attending to put out bowls of milk and grain for the swarm of rats because they believe that eventually, these furry brown souls will be reincarnated as Sadhus, Hindi holy men. People pilgrimage to this temple, travelling miles just to sit and share food with the rats, or Kabbas, their name for the holy animal. They often eat and drink from the same bowls as the rats, believing that food touched by a Kabbas is a blessing from God.</div>
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Many people in our culture would find this temple to be strange or revolting, but it cannot be denied that all religions practise customs that may seem strange to an outsider. The rat loving Hindu temple was constructed in the 1900's by the Maharaja Ganga as a tribute to the rat Goddess Karni Mata. Kings often constructed temples to Goddesses more than Gods, believing the Goddesses to be more sympathetic and likely to help them achieve their goals.</div>
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The legend goes that Karni Mata was a mystic matriarch from the 14th century. It was said that she was an incarnation of Durga, the Goddess of power and victory. At some point during her life, the child of one of her clansmen died. She tried in vain to bring the child back to life, only to be told by Yama, the God of death, that the child had already been reincarnated. Karni Mata then cut a deal with Yama: From that point onwards, all of her tribe's people would be reborn as rats until they could be reborn into her clan once more.</div>
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The rat is also recognized in India as the vehicle of Lord Ganesh and pictures often depict him riding on the back of a rat. There are always statues of rats in the temple of Ganesh. In Curzon Park, Calcutta, India there is an attraction simply named 'Rat Park', where hundreds of rats scurry around inside a huge wire enclosure.</div>
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In Imperial Chinese culture the rat is the first animal of the Chinese zodiac. Rats are revered for their quick wit, ability to hold on to items of value, friendliness, natural charm and loyalty to their friends and family. The year of the rat falls in 1948, 1960, 1972, 1984, 1996 and 2008. People who are born in the year of the rat are said to possess the rat-like qualities of creativity, honesty, generosity and ambition, but also a quick temper and wastefulness.</div>
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The rat is the first animal of the Chinese zodiac and the story goes that the twelve animals were stood on the bank of a river arguing about who should head the cycle of years. The Gods were asked to decide and they held a contest, whoever reached the opposite side of the river first would win and the rest would receive their years in the order that they finished. They all jumped into the river, but what the ox didn't realize is that the rat was travelling on his back. So the rat jumped off first and won. The pig was very lazy and finished last. That is why the rat appears first, with the ox second and the pig has the last year.</div>
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In old Japan, white rats were seen as the messenger of one of the seven Gods of luck, Daikoku. It is because of this reason that rats are not killed. There is an old story about rats in the Japanese culture: An elderly rat coup0le wanted the strongest husband in the world for their daughter. They asked the sun, who declined, saying that the clouds were stronger than him as they could cover him up. They asked a cloud who said, 'The wind is stronger than I because he can blow me away.' The wind could not make the grade either, 'The wall stops me cold,' he said. Even though the wall was honoured by the offer, he wailed 'The rat is stronger than I! He can bore a hole right through me!' So the couple wisely gave their daughter in marriage to another rat, who was indeed the strongest creature of them all. At New year, the Japanese leave rice cakes out to honour the rats.</div>
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In Ancient Rome there was no classification between rats and mice, they were simply referred to as 'big mouse' and 'little mouse'. The Romans saw rats as omens, seeing a white rat was considered auspicious, though black ones had unfortunate significance. It was said that if a rat had gnawed your personal possessions, you should postpone any business you may have been considering that day.</div>
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It is unclear as to whether or not rats held any significance in Ancient Egypt. There are pictures which show anthropomorphic rats, but there appears to be no rat deity. It is believed that rats were pests in Egypt, destroying crops and belongings, which is probably why the cat is held in high favour.</div>
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Perhaps the most memorable event in British history concerning rats is undoubtedly the Black Plague. It is possibly because of this that the Western world has such a negative association with the rat.</div>
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It is often said that the rats were the actual cause of the Black Plague. This is not true, the rats themselves were also victims. The plague was caused by the microorganism, Yersinia Pestis, which was carried by the Tropical Rat Flea. The bacteria blocked the flea's stomach causing an insatiable hunger. So the fleas fed on the rats. During the feeding process, the flea would regurgitate some of the bacteria into the open would, infecting its victim. After a while, the victim died and very soon the starving flea had less and less to prey on, so it moved on to another victim, humans.</div>
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The disease itself flared up in Mongolia in the Gobi desert around 1320 and rapidly spread along the trade route, infecting much of Asia before moving through Europe. The plague eventually arrived in Britain in 1348, and by 1349 every town and village in Britain had been infected.</div>
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The disease became known as the Bubonic Plague, as it caused painful swelling of the lymph nodes - buboes. Throughout the years there were many cases as the plague came and went through areas of Britain. But in 1665 the great plague hit London, killing half of its population. The disease was spread from person to person via airborne water droplets, mainly coughs and sneezes. Due to the lack of medical knowledge at the time, it raged through the city. An epidemic was upon us.</div>
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It started as an acute fever with headaches, exhaustion, chills and delirium. The lymph nodes swelled up and became hot and painful to touch. The final stages were septicaemia, coughing up blood and a lung infection. Four or five days later, death arrived.</div>
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No one really knows how the plague eventually came to an end. Reasons could have been lack of food sources, the bacterium becoming weaker or simply the fact that the surviving humans were becoming immune. Frighteningly enough, the Bubonic plague is still common in parts of the world today, though it can be treated and does not have the same devastating effects.</div>
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During the Victorian ages, London was swarming with rats. Rats being the cheeky, opportunistic creatures that they are, realized that there was plenty of food and places to live instead of having to struggle for survival. The abundance of rats leads to a cruel new blood sport, which although is ghastly and gory, is one of the reasons we have Fancy Rats today.</div>
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Rat baiting was seen as an entertaining way to keep the pests under control. Men caught large amounts of live rodents and brought them in sacks to public sporting houses. The rats were then dumped into a pit with a dog, or sometimes even a grown man. The dog (or man) was then timed as it tore through the pack. Whichever dog killed the most rats in the shortest time was declared the winner.</div>
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Jimmy Shaw managed one of the largest public sporting houses in London. After a while, he began collecting and breeding oddly coloured rats to create more colours and patterns. He then sold these 'new' rats to the public as pets.</div>
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But the man who can be credited as the originator of the first true domestic rats, was the Royal rat catcher, Jack Black. The rise of the rat population meant that many men had found new employment as exterminators, or rat-catchers as they were known at the time. It was often these men who supplied to sporting houses. In his line of work, Black came across many rats and after a while, he too began to collect and breed the odd coloured ones he found. After a while he had quite the collection; albinos, fawns, greys and marked rodents, which he then sold as pets. Between them, Jack Black and Jimmy Shaw sold hundreds of pet rats, laying down the foundations from which today's Fancy Rats originate.</div>
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In the 1800's, coloured or 'Fancy' mice became popular pets. People began to realize that these furry little critters made delightful and entertaining companions. They were very easy to keep, only needing small housing as well as food and water, and with the different varieties in colour and pattern, they were also pleasing to the eye. Interest in mice continued to rise until in 1895 the National Mouse Club was founded in the UK. The NMC set up the different standards and varieties and also held shows.</div>
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Meanwhile, dwelling in the background was a very special lady, Mary Douglas. In 1901, Ms Douglas wrote to the NMC concerning Fancy Rats and asked if their club would consider expanding their interests to include the Fancy Rat. After much debate, the NMC agreed and that same year, the classes for Fancy Rats were staged.</div>
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By 1912 the interest in Fancy Rats had exploded and was so high that the NMC decided to change their name to 'The National Mouse and Rat Club'. It was during this time that the scientific community discovered the benefits of rats in research. In 1921 Mary Douglas passed away and the interest in rats began to wane again. The NMC returned to their old name.</div>
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Over the following years, the rat lovers longed for an official club of some description, but the interest in rats as pets was still too low and there were not enough rat fanciers to make a decent club or society. The rat fanciers were left wanting until 1976 when interest was high enough again to start up the National Fancy Rat Society, the first ever rat only organization.</div>
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Interest in having rats as pets grew rapidly and very soon new varieties were founded and standardized. The National Fancy Rat Society is still active today and remains the UK's number one rat club.</div>
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<td><ul>By <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Stacey_Silver">Stacey Silver</a><br />Stacey Silver has kept and bred rats for twelve years, caring for around 200 rats in this time. She has also owned an Exotic Pet shop and studied courses in animal husbandry.<br />
<br />You can find out more about The National Fancy Rat Society by visiting their website at <a href="http://www.nfrs.org/">http://www.nfrs.org</a><br />
<br />Article Source: <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?The-Origins-and-History-of-Rats&id=6290673">EzineArticles</a></ul>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-78744910869661886872018-02-21T10:02:00.001+01:002018-02-21T10:02:51.462+01:00What To Expect And Prepare For When Keeping FERRETS As Pets<div class="zemanta-img" style="text-align: justify;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a amzn-ps-bm-asin="0470139439" class="amzn_ps_bm_il" data-amzn-link-id="5a9da23c6383d6db6c107b6cec84a15c" data-amzn-ps-bm-keyword="ferrets" href="http://www.amazon.com/Ferrets-For-Dummies-Kim-Schilling/dp/0470139439/ref=as_li_bk_ia/?tag=dogandcatatho-20&linkId=5a9da23c6383d6db6c107b6cec84a15c&linkCode=kia" id="amznPsBmLink_2290944" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img alt="English: A picture of a ferret's teeth, very w..." class="zemanta-img-configured" height="480" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/31/Buffy_teeth.jpg/350px-Buffy_teeth.jpg" width="640" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="0" id="amznPsBmPixel_2290944" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?source=bk&t=dogandcatatho-20&bm-id=default&l=kia&linkId=5a9da23c6383d6db6c107b6cec84a15c&_cb=1449182362201" style="border: none !important; height: 0px !important; margin: 0px !important; padding: 0px !important; width: 0px !important;" width="0" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">A picture of a ferret's teeth, very white and in good condition<br /> (Photo credit: </span><a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Buffy_teeth.jpg" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;" target="_blank">Wikipedia</a><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">)</span></td></tr>
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If you are going to keep a ferret as a pet, then there are a few things you need to keep in mind so that you and your new friend can both lead healthy and happy lives.</div>
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First of all, know what you are getting into. Yes, ferrets are quite cuddly and cute, but they have certain needs that must be met and they have personalities that can get them into trouble and possibly hurt. You need to be one hundred percent sure that you are capable of meeting these needs so to provide for a happy and healthy environment for your ferret and you need to also be sure that you can have the patience that may be needed when they become mischievous.</div>
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So let's take a look at all of the needs of your new ferret, and what you will have to do to provide these needs for them.</div>
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It is an absolute necessity that you take the proper measures to make your home a safe environment for your new pet ferret. By this, you will need to take appropriate action to "ferret proof" your home to the greatest extent possible. You will need to ensure that even the smallest opening that you would think be impossible for your ferret to squeeze into, be sealed. You will actually be very surprised and even shocked at times, the small places they tend to find themselves getting into. After all, you wouldn't want to lose your new ferret in the wall of your home, or in your kitchen stove and other appliances would you? Make sure to seal or attach some type of barrier that will not allow them access to places like under your refrigerator, the kitchen stove, your laundry washing machine, and dryer. In the case of the clothes dryer, make sure that the vent hose is securely attached to the wall properly so to not allow them access to inside the vent. Just remember, think small and seal it all. All of these little precautions taken before you bring your ferret to its new home, will be well worth the effort and keep your ferret safe and out of harm's way.</div>
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<strong>Ferret Cages</strong></div>
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Though many people let their ferrets have run of the house, there will almost assuredly come a time when you may have to leave your home even if it is just for a short period of time. It is this situation where having a ferret kennel or ferret cage will not only come in handy but also provide protection for your ferret if from nothing else; themselves.</div>
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When you choose a ferret habitat, it does not necessarily have to be a ferret McMansion but it should be sizable enough to offer enough room for bursts of playful energy that will most certainly erupt when they are not sleeping. The ferret cage should also be made comfortable and an enjoyable place for them to call home when you are not.</div>
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There should be small and dark places for them to squeeze into since this is one of their favorite things to do. You can provide for this need in several ways. An old box of cereal can make for days upon days of comfortable "hiding" places for your little ferret buddy. An old backpack that you may not be using will also make a good ferret hiding place just so long as it is presented in a way that will allow easy entry and escape, and also made so that there is no way for them to suffocate. You can also make a tube for your ferret to hide and crawl in out of old PVC pipe material or even an old clothes dryer vent hose.</div>
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Many ferret cages already come equipped with everything your ferret needs to be comfortable and happy. With tubes, ladders, and little ferret hammocks there will not be too much else that you will need to provide for entertainment. Save some toys. One of the best things you can get to add to your ferret's habitat is people baby toy sets. You know, those sets that have rattles and shiny big bells that make noise. Just be sure that the bells are large enough so that your ferret does not run the risk of ingesting it. That will be another topic covered later in this reading, the ingesting of objects topic.<br />
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Once you have their new habitat all set up and they seemed pleased with it, you will need to make sure that you provide a litter box for your ferret and you will also need to make sure that you keep the litter box away from where their food and water are kept in their cage. Just like us humans, they don't want to eat where they do. You will also need to keep the litter box cleaned on a regular basis, preferably at least once a day, since they can be pretty picky about this topic. It is also advisable to use the pelleted type of ferret litter over the clumping kind, as the clumping kind can cause the ferret's nasal passageways to become irritated.</div>
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Once you take all of these steps, you will be well on your way to providing your ferret with a decent and healthy environment they will be glad to call home.</div>
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<strong>Food and Water</strong></div>
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Now we can move on to the topic of your new ferret's diet and nutritional needs. Overall it is pretty simple as far as their diet goes, but I will expound on the subject to include other nutritional factors and some sources to help you find them.</div>
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Water, of course, is an absolute must and it must be clean. Rather than just a regular water dish (though that will do), it might be advisable to get your ferret used to taking water from a small animal water bottle. The same style used for both rabbits and guinea pigs. This will allow for easy access to clean fresh water at all times and will also provide a spill free way for your ferret to drink without having to worry about messes and "extra" play time that they might engage in.</div>
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A ferrets diet is relatively simple, protein and fat. The ferret's digestive tract is not made to handle the fiber of fruits and vegetables, it is specifically designed for the consumption and digestion of meat. Your little cute ferret buddy is a ravenous carnivore and will always be. So even if you are a stark vegetarian, there is no converting your ferret to your lifestyle. Otherwise, you may have a very uncomfortable and sick ferret on your hands and you would not want that. Once you understand that, providing a food source is easy.</div>
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So let's examine some good sources of protein-rich high-fat food sources. As a rule of thumb, the ratio between protein content and fat content for your ferret should be about thirty-five (35) to thirty-eight (38) percent protein and about twenty-two (22) to twenty five(25) percent fat. Both of these need to be from high-quality sources as some ferret foods contain proteins made from vegetable matter which will cause your ferret to have some digestive problems.</div>
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You should take great care and the time to actually read the ingredients on any container of ferret food you are considering purchasing. It is also important to note that while it may be tempting to purchase a cheaper brand of ferret food, the protein content of these items is generally much less than those that are higher in price. So you would be basically spending the same or even more in the long run as your ferret would require more food intake from these inferior products. This too would lead to the necessity of cleaning the litter box more often than if you feed them the proper protein ratios, to begin with since they cannot digest it, they get rid of it. This will lead to using more litter adding to your expense.</div>
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Always look for food that has a meat product listed as the number one ingredient. This should be poultry or some other type of poultry protein variant. Fish meal based products are ok, but they are going to have a strong fish smell to them, so it is advisable to stick with poultry proteins and poultry by-products.</div>
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Ferrets require at a minimum, thirty(30) percent protein intake every day, just to lead a healthy life. If you are feeding your ferret the properly balanced diet of protein and fat, then there should be no need for any type of dietary supplement. However; that said, some ferret owners give their ferrets fatty acid supplements like ferretone or linatone. These two products should be used in strict moderation as it can lead to your ferret becoming obese. With the proper diet, these types of products should only be used for rewards and special treats.</div>
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Proteins and fats are essential for your ferrets well being and health. The high protein part of their diet aids in strong muscle growth and development while the fat portion of the diet gives them the energy they need to be the rambunctious critters that they are.</div>
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Though fiber, as a rule, is a substance that should be avoided, some fiber is necessary for proper intestinal function. Carbohydrates, like those found in the binders of their food(rice, soy, and corn), can be sources of energy for your ferret but not as good a source as that of fat.</div>
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Speaking of the binders that make up part of your ferret's food, it is rice that is perhaps the best and most tolerable of all as it is easily digested and has enough fiber to aid your ferret's bowel movements. Some veterinarians recommend that you limit your ferret's intake of soy, another filler used, as it may cause hormonal problems later in your ferret's life. Though that has neither been formally proven or dis-proven, soy is still tolerated very well by the ferret's digestive system. Corn, on the other hand, is one filler that you have to watch out for as some ferrets can develop a food allergy to it.</div>
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Some of the signs that your ferret may be allergic to the corn bound food it may be eating are irregular or soft stools, stools with a mucus, gas and bloating, and pawing at the mouth because of stomach upset. If you suspect that your ferret is having an allergic reaction to the food it is eating, then it is highly advisable to get them to your veterinarian as quickly as possible. The long-term effects of this food allergy can lead to the hardening of the bowels and ulcerations.</div>
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Vitamins are essential for ferret health as well, but it would be advisable to consult with a veterinarian or other ferret specialist before starting some regime of vitamin supplementation as they can develop a toxicity when given too much or too often.</div>
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Minerals are important for ferret health as well, there again, as stated above it would do your ferret best to consult an expert before starting a mineral supplement program on your own as this too could become life-threatening to your ferret if the doses are not administered properly.</div>
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If you are using a high-quality ferret food, to begin with, almost every vitamin and mineral needed by your ferret is provided in the food they eat.</div>
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<strong>Grooming</strong></div>
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Grooming your ferret is also important. Though it is not a good idea to bathe them often, they will need a bath, a brushing, and claw clipping on occasion. Let's take a look at the best practices for these chores.</div>
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Bathing your ferret will become a ritual, to say the least. Some ferrets take to the water pretty well and actually enjoy swimming around and having fun, while others will need your absolute patience and assistance in the bathing ritual.</div>
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(Not too often.)</div>
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You should only give your ferret a bath a maximum of one bath each month. The reason being that frequent bathing washes away the essential oils needed for healthy ferret skin and coat. Some say that a bath every two to three months is best, but that's up to you just as long as you are aware that bathing too often is bad for your ferret.</div>
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The water temperature should be should be warm to touch but definitely not too hot. You should use a very gentle shampoo like baby shampoo and lather the fuzzy up real good. You need to take great care as to not get any soap into the eyes or ears of your ferret. If you do, try to rinse it out as quickly as possible. Also, make sure that when you are rinsing off your ferret to not leave any soap residue on them because it will dry out their skin and also try to not let them get chilled.</div>
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<b><b>When drying, try to get it done as soon as possible.</b></b></div>
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Keeping your ferret brushed and well groomed also helps prevent the hairball problem and is good for their coat. You can do this as often as you like, but be gentle of course when doing so.</div>
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Claw trimming will also be necessary from time to time. It is very important that great care and caution is taken when doing so. Be extra careful not to trim too close to the nail quick, because just like for us humans, it will hurt them as well. You can pick up the tools you need for this at almost any pet store and it would be a good idea, especially if you are completely new to ferrets, to have a professional groomer show you the ropes in the beginning.</div>
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<b><b>Ferrets and disease</b></b></div>
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Ferrets are susceptible to a number of diseases and other health problems. Knowing this beforehand can prepare you for what is inevitable at some point in your ferret's life.</div>
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Here are some of the diseases that your ferret may encounter. Not saying that it is a guarantee that your that your ferret will get a disease, it is just that they have become predisposed to certain illnesses and diseases over the years. So the chance for some type of illness is somewhat greater. Below is a partial list of common ferret diseases that you can use for reference to investigate on your own further. This list is by no means all of the diseases they can get.</div>
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Pyogenic Infections:</div>
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1. Subcutaneous Abscesses</div>
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2. Pyometra and Vaginitis/Vulvar Cellulitis</div>
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3. Proliferative Colitis</div>
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4. Helicobacter Infections</div>
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5. Mastitis</div>
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6. Dermatophytosis</div>
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7. Salmonellosis</div>
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8. Tuberculosis</div>
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9. Botulism</div>
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<strong>Metabolic:</strong></div>
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1. Hyperadrenocorticism</div>
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2. Hypoglycemia</div>
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3. Diabetes Mellitus</div>
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4. Hyperestrogenism</div>
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5. Eclamptogenic Toxemia and Nursing Sickness</div>
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<strong>Other Types Of Disease:</strong></div>
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1. Gastrointestinal Foreign Body</div>
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2. Urolithiasis</div>
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3. Posterior Paralysis</div>
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4. Gastric Ulcers</div>
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5. Congestive Heart Disease</div>
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6. Dental Disease</div>
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7. Heat Stroke</div>
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8. Nutritional Diseases</div>
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<strong>Cancers:</strong></div>
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1. Adrenal tumors</div>
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2. Insulinoma</div>
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3. Lymphosarcoma</div>
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4. Chordomas</div>
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5. Mast cell tumors, basal cell tumors and sebaceous cell tumors</div>
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As you can see, there are quite a few diseases that you will have to stay on the lookout for. This is not even a complete list. They are even prone to catch the human flu virus, so if you ever find yourself with the flu, it might do your ferret well to stay away from you. For more information on that and all of the other diseases they can get, I would suggest doing a search online yourself for all of the different diseases ferrets are prone to. There is no need to constantly be afraid for your ferret's health, but it is a good idea as always to get educated.</div>
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Well, we have certainly covered a lot of ground concerning being prepared and what it takes to have a ferret as a pet. It is a responsibility just the same as a dog, a cat, or even a child. There is no one or nothing else to look out for and take care of your ferret but you.</div>
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In recap, we talked about ferret-proofing your home so that your new ferret can live safe and sound. We talked about your ferret's diet, grooming, diseases, and habitat.</div>
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<strong>Ferret Habits</strong></div>
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Now let's wrap this up with ferret habits. This should be interesting.</div>
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The word ferret partly originated from the Latin word for thief. So that should speak volumes for you. Be prepared for things to come up missing. Especially shiny pretty things. If your car keys come up missing, they probably are not under the couch cushion.</div>
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Ferrets are very inquisitive, this, of course, can lead to some serious trouble for them so that is why that it is imperative that you pay attention to what they are doing and what they are getting into.<br />
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Ferrets also tend to like to chew on soft rubber objects so it is wise to keep an eye out for chewable electric cords and cables, tennis shoe soles, sponges, and anything else chewable. This habit can cause all sorts of issues, especially if the material is ingested. This can cause intestinal blockage and will most likely require a trip to the animal ER, so make sure to do a walk around of your home a few times a day all the while on the lookout for rubber bands and other chewable things they might swallow.</div>
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Be sure that your ferret does not have any access to any of your household cleaning products as common sense should tell you that it will be fatal for your ferret.</div>
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If you have other pets, be aware that while ferrets can get along with and live with other animals; however, if you have a pet bird it would do you well to keep your bird out of the reach of your ferret. Can you say free lunch!</div>
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As mentioned at the beginning of this article, ferrets love to tunnel and explore. It's in their very nature. That is why you must make sure that every small hole is sealed. That includes where pipes and plumbing come out of walls and electrical outlets too. Give them an inch and they will take a mile. Seriously, all the opening they need is about an inch and they can squeeze themselves through.</div>
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Don't be alarmed when your ferret does a war dance in front of you. It is just a sign that they are excited and in a playful mood and that's what you call all that jumping and twisting about. So entertain them just like they entertain you.</div>
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I do hope you have found some insight into what to expect if you ever decide to bring a ferret into your home and have taken away some knowledge that you may not have known before otherwise.</div>
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Just know that this is by far not all the information to know about ferrets and how to take good care of them. There is still plenty of useful information for you to find for yourself online or at your local library, pet store, and most importantly from other ferret keepers.</div>
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<td><ul>By <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=CS_David">CS David</a> - Article Source: <b><a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?What-To-Expect-And-Prepare-For-When-Keeping-Ferrets-As-Pets&id=6692366" target="_blank">EzineArticles</a></b><br />
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-61942965155880863202018-02-18T11:40:00.000+01:002018-02-18T11:40:23.731+01:00Taming a Skunk Problem On Your Property<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_lC1X1o0aNdqkKRSYkbRvo0xbTHK3-yz_rj5yK5ZSqPz8qr3yNyzI-EyNmCwcIPCayMjOEtpq39LCO2vhi6at1NWiHQoZXGhPzXsbDnQio5MXuxZV_VgLfCozkfQGn5KeYVjm9Nc6UWM/s1600/skunk-1591311_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1079" data-original-width="1600" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_lC1X1o0aNdqkKRSYkbRvo0xbTHK3-yz_rj5yK5ZSqPz8qr3yNyzI-EyNmCwcIPCayMjOEtpq39LCO2vhi6at1NWiHQoZXGhPzXsbDnQio5MXuxZV_VgLfCozkfQGn5KeYVjm9Nc6UWM/s640/skunk-1591311_1920.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hooded Skunk - Photo:<a href="https://pixabay.com/de/mit-kapuze-stinktier-tierwelt-1591311/" target="_blank"> Pixabay</a></td></tr>
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Have you been scratching your head, trying to figure out a way to stop pesky skunks from trespassing onto your property? Has your dog been sprayed one too many times by a skunk that seems to never go away? Are you fed up with that distinct skunk smell outside of your house every day? If you have answered yes to any of these questions, then you need to read this article. Continue reading to learn effective methods for skunk removal and control that you can implement as soon as today!</div>
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<strong>Skunk Removal and Control</strong></div>
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There are certain steps a homeowner can take that will make their property seem undesirable to skunks and other pesky critters. As long as you do the things mentioned in this article, you should have no problem taming a skunk infestation on your property. Keep in mind that the most common area for a skunk to hang out is under the front porch or patio. For some unknown reason, they prefer these dark, cooler areas. Probably a means to protect themselves and their young from being visible to predators; but the problem is, they are usually invisible to us as well.</div>
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So now you know that if you cannot figure out where a skunk is on your property, but you smell it, it is most likely underneath the porch or deck. Do not try to take a look or attempt to trap, touch, or harm any skunks. Not only is this illegal without a proper permit, it is wrong. There are several safe and humane ways to get rid of skunks other than killing or harming them.</div>
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As for yourself, there are many DIY methods to preventing skunks from living on or around your home, but if you find a colony of baby and mother skunks, you must call a local animal control company for professional assistance. They use sage and humane methods to extract skunks and relocate them to a faraway and safer habitat. Now back to the DIY approach. Here are six DIY skunk-fending tips for your home and property:</div>
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<strong>1.</strong> If you know there are no skunks beneath your porch or patio, go ahead and block off all access point so they cannot make this area their home in the future. Be diligent with this because skunks can surprisingly squeeze through some very small spaces.</div>
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<strong>2.</strong> Never leave pet food or dishes outside. This is a free, easy, and tasty snack for skunks and many other wild animals. If you have bags of pet food in your shed or garage, be sure to lock them up.</div>
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<strong>3.</strong> Remove all other food sources from your property, including bird feeders and squirrel feeders.</div>
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<strong>4.</strong> If you have a garden, always be sure to install fencing around them to prevent skunks from accessing any crops.</div>
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<strong>5.</strong> Never take the trash out the night before garbage pickup day. And always secure the trash can lids to prevent animals from smelling food and enticing them to find it.</div>
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<strong>6.</strong> Eliminate hiding spots for skunks by keeping tall grass and weeds mowed. If they cannot hide, they will not enter the premises at all.</div>
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<b><span style="color: blue;">By <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/expert/Sarahbeth_Kluzinski/1326228">Sarahbeth Kluzinski</a></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: blue;"><b>Call Wildlife Animal Removal at 317-257-2290</b> for safe and humane <b>skunk removal services in Indianapolis</b>, Indiana. Visit their website at <a href="http://www.wildliferemovalindianapolis.com/Indianapolis-skunk-removal.php" target="_blank">http://www.wildliferemovalindianapolis.com/Indianapolis-skunk-removal.php</a> for contact and company information. They are DNR licensed animal control specialists that also provide services for all other types of nuisance wildlife, such as raccoons, moles, bats, squirrels, opossum, snakes, rabbits, and more. Call 317-257-2290 for free information and advice regarding <b>skunk removal and control in Indianapolis, IN</b> today.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: blue;">Article Source: <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?Taming-a-Skunk-Problem-On-Your-Property&id=8869523" target="_blank">EzineArticles</a></span></b></div>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-46597436042212043262018-02-04T11:23:00.000+01:002018-02-04T11:23:07.502+01:00Spiders Have Special Benefits- But Beware Of That Bite!<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Widow - Photo:<a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Black_widow_spider_9854_lores.jpg" target="_blank"> Wikimedia</a></td></tr>
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Many Americans warmly welcome four-legged friends into their homes, but few are comfortable when creatures with eight legs wander in from outside.</div>
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Even though they make you shriek, some spiders play a positive role around your home by preying on other pests. For some homeowners, their contributions to reducing unwanted insects far outweigh the fear they evoke.</div>
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"Many household spiders are not dangerous to humans," said Orkin, Inc. entomologist Ron Harrison, Ph.D. "However, there are a few species with a venomous bite. The key is distinguishing between those that make harmless houseguests and those that present a threat to your family." </div>
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Several spiders can protect your home from pesky invaders. Cellar spiders-the web-spinning species most common in homes have been known to prey on black widow spiders. Some, like the spiny orb weaver and house spiders, can hunt crickets and small flying insects. Wolf spiders can help rid lawns and gardens of common pests. Even the brown recluse-the most dangerous spider to humans-can assist by eating cockroaches, silverfish, and other soft-bodied insects.</div>
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When protecting your family from venomous spiders, it is important to identify key characteristics of harmful species like the black widow, brown recluse and yellow sac spiders, whose bites can cause severe skin irritations.</div>
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<li style="text-align: justify;">Black Widow: Females are shiny black, with a red hourglass-shaped mark on their abdomen.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Brown Recluse: This spider is yellowish to brown in color, with a dark brown violin-shaped back marking; legs are long and thin with fine hair.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Yellow Sac: This spider has yellow coloring; its abdomen is often much brighter than its head or legs.</li>
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According to a survey conducted by Orkin, Inc., spiders have a noticeable presence in two out of three American households. So when spiders make frequent appearances in your home, trust an experienced professional to identify the species, consider its web-building or hunting behaviors and determine the best way to control the infestation. </div>
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Homeowners can take some steps to prevent spider invasions and reduce potentially harmful encounters, such as removing food sources and discouraging nesting by keeping low-traffic areas, such as cellars or closets, clear. However, a licensed pest control company should be called upon to treat and repel spider infestations.</div>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-84301754140190004342017-12-21T21:58:00.002+01:002017-12-21T21:59:06.421+01:00Guide to Keeping PET MICE - Choosing, Feeding, Housing and Enjoying<div style="text-align: left;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pet Mice - Photo: <a href="https://www.pexels.com/photo/brown-and-white-mouse-beside-black-and-white-mouse-35780/" target="_blank">Pexels</a></td></tr>
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<b>Choosing Your Pet Mice</b></div>
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So, you have decided to buy some pet mice. You need to first decide how many mice you are going to have. This is best determined by what size cage you have for them. You need to allow them as much space as a gerbil, hamster or other small rodents. Never have one mouse on its own, however, mice are social animals and get very lonely when kept on their own, this often leads to them getting sick.</div>
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Next, you need to decide between female and male mice. Keeping a mix of males and females will almost certainly mean you'll have a litter of 'pups' as baby mice are called before long. This is irresponsible unless you are intending to breed your mice intentionally.</div>
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<b>So the pros and cons of males and females are as follows:</b></div>
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Males - They tend to fight among themselves occasionally to hold territory and can be a bit smelly. On the plus side, they are bigger than females, tend to not get sick as often and are less fidgety with you making them easier to handle.</div>
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Females - They can be weaker and sometimes get sick. When you are handling females they don't tend to stay still for long, always trying to run off. On the plus side, they do not have hardly any odor at all and will rarely if ever fight among themselves.</div>
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So there are the pros and cons, it's up to you to take a few moments to consider what sex you want your mice to be.</div>
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<b>Feeding You Pet Mice</b></div>
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Mice are fairly popular pets in most countries. It should not be hard to find some prepared mice food available at your local pet store. If there is not a specific food mix for mice, hamster food will usually do, just check with a pet store professional first to make sure.</div>
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You can give pieces of most fruits and vegetables to your mice to if you want to balance out their diet some more.</div>
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Remember to keep some fresh water in their cage too in a bottle or bowl. You should only need to fill up their water and food bowl once a day, usually in the evening is the best time as mice are nocturnal and will be waking up around then.</div>
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<b>Housing Your Pet Mice</b></div>
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This is the easy and fun bit. You get to shop around for a cage that you think will fit into space in your home and house your mice comfortably. It's best to go as large as you can afford or accommodate if it has an exercise wheel and other toys/obstacles inside this will benefit the mice.</div>
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You are going to be cleaning it out once a week so don't keep it anywhere hard to access. Lay some wood shavings down for bedding and give your mice some cardboard tubes to chew on and play in.</div>
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<b>Enjoying Your Pet Mice</b></div>
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Now you have your mice and everything set up for them its time to enjoy them. Most people find it relaxing to have them in view so you can see them building nests and playing with obstacles. Try and handle them at least every other day and they will be a lot tamer, they might even start approaching you as you put your hand into the cage. Feed them some treats in the palm of your hand or give them a stroke and observe how happy they are.</div>
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<td><ul>By <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Phil_Avent">Phil Avent</a><br />Phil Avent is a freelance writer and blogger. For more information regarding looking after pet mice visit <a href="http://petmiceblog.co.uk/">http://petmiceblog.co.uk/</a>.<br />
<br />Article Source: <b><a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?Guide-to-Keeping-Pet-Mice---Choosing,-Feeding,-Housing-and-Enjoying&id=8519363" target="_blank">EzineArticles </a></b></ul>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-63273887551466019132017-12-03T11:24:00.001+01:002017-12-03T11:24:07.490+01:00Exotic Pets: Cheetahs<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cheetah - Photo: <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cheetah#/media/File:Cheetah_portrait_Whipsnade_Zoo.jpg" target="_blank">Wikipedia</a></td></tr>
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Cheetah is one of the exotic animals which are kept as pets since five thousand years and can be dated back to Ancient Egyptian civilization. Initially, they were used for hunting. Scientifically known as Acinonyx Jubatus, they are fastest of the wild cats and also amongst the animals but aren’t good at climbing trees like other cats. They are capable of reaching a speed of seventy miles per hour and within merely three seconds they can accelerate from zero mph to seventy mph. The length of the cheetah’s body ranges from forty-five to fifty-five inches and the weight ranges from ninety to one hundred and forty pounds. </div>
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They originated from Africa and can be found in other parts of the world such as Central Asia and Iran. They have an elongated body with a small head and narrow waist, which facilitates aerodynamics. Cheetahs have semi-retractable blunt claws which help them to get a good grip during fast pursuits. The color of its coarse fur is tan and has small black spots. A rare kind of cheetah known as King Cheetah is larger in size with big merging spots. Its Thirty-three-inch long tail is encircled with five to six black circles and it helps in taking sharp turns as it acts like a rudder. Black lines which start from its eyes and run along the sides of the nose towards the mouth are called tear marks. These lines enable them to see long distances and minimize the glare of the sun. </div>
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Cheetahs can be trained very easily and also they are very caring animals. They make noises such as chirp, yowl, yip, growl and hiss and their purr is very deafening. But they do not have the ability to roar like other big cats and also are diurnal, whereas others are nocturnal. They are carnivorous animals and hunt for small mammals and young ones of larger mammals. Cheetahs hunt when it isn’t hot, like at dawn and dusk. They also do not go after animals which they cannot get hold of easily and they hunt not by smell but by vision. Nearly fifty percent of attempts end in failure as they give up fast. One of the reasons can be the immense heat which is generated while running, which can be serious for the animal. They rest for at least half hour after the intense chase. They also have the ability to make sounds of some birds, in order to catch them. </div>
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Cheetahs always eye for the animal which is distant from its herd. It chases the animal and then trips it. After the animal falls, it suffocates the animal by biting underneath the throat as it does not have the strength to break the neck. For some reason, they do not hunt weak and old animals. During high-speed chases, cheetahs can get adequate oxygen with the help of big nostrils. They also have an enlarged heart and lungs which utilize the oxygen to the maximum by increasing the respiratory rate while running. </div>
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Cheetahs also fall under the category of endangered species. Many organizations and acts have been implemented to conserve them. One of the reasons for their endangerment is that they are environmentally sensitive and are the most vulnerable. When held in captivity, they should be provided with their natural habitat. Studies have proven that there is a lack of genetic diversity in cheetahs which are held in captivity. They don’t reproduce regularly like other felines and find it difficult to breed. Also, their lifespan decreases and the rate of survival are low. In residential areas, they have been killed by poachers on large scale for protecting cattle. Such farmers are now being provided with dogs that can guard the livestock and scare away the wild cheetah. It has also being hunted for its fur with a beautiful pattern. </div>
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To obtain a permit to keep cheetahs as pets are not only a big problem for individual owners but also for big zoos. People who have a passion for cheetahs and haven’t got the permission to own them can donate generously to conserve the species.</div>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-27772023735643559702017-11-12T11:38:00.002+01:002017-11-12T11:41:18.227+01:00Exotic Pets: Capuchin Monkey<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVKFpW7mO9G68xXFLDzb9-bwynmvQZrswkXaLp-WXrWFUnxbZMwS1gKRLFOXi5Ufr48l5X2W20Q1YP6tn1yJh8h6QeuuU_Ji-yroN2ucCqw1NCWA0mOlMkN0XS-O_YXMrCNOSuXclES-Y/s1600/capuchine_monkey-2139295_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVKFpW7mO9G68xXFLDzb9-bwynmvQZrswkXaLp-WXrWFUnxbZMwS1gKRLFOXi5Ufr48l5X2W20Q1YP6tn1yJh8h6QeuuU_Ji-yroN2ucCqw1NCWA0mOlMkN0XS-O_YXMrCNOSuXclES-Y/s640/capuchine_monkey-2139295_1920.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Capuchin Monkey - Photo: <a href="https://pixabay.com/en/monkey-primates-capuchin-2139295/" target="_blank">Pixabay</a></td></tr>
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Capuchin monkeys had their name derived from the Franciscan Capuchin whose cowl is similar to the coloration of the monkeys. They belong to the Cebinae family and Cebus genus. These monkeys are found in Central America and South America. Also known as sapajou, these species of monkeys are considered to be the most intelligent of all present species of monkeys. </div>
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The face, neck, and chest of capuchins are white colored whereas the rest of the body is either brown or black colored. Their body grows up to twelve to twenty-two inches in height and their hairy tails are also usually the same length as the body. Their average body weight is two pounds. The males weigh more than the females. When they are held in captivity, they can live up to forty-five years, but in the wild habitat, they can live only for fifteen to twenty-five years. They stay awake during the day and sleep at night except for the midday nap they take. During the day, they spend most of the time looking for food and at night, they sleep on the branches of the trees. </div>
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Capuchins are very social and live in a group of eight to forty males, females and their children. The area where the whole group lives together is marked by the smell of urine and intruders are not welcomed. A strong male controls the whole group and mates with the rest of the females in the group to produce offspring. Male and female capuchins smell each other to know whether the other is sexually mature or not. A female capuchin monkey has the capability of reproducing after every two years. Their pregnancy period lasts from five to six months.</div>
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The offspring clings to the chest of the mother and when they grow big enough, they shift to their back. They expect their mothers to babysit till they are three months old. Male capuchins have no participation in the upbringing of their offspring. But if people want to keep them as pets, before keeping them as pets, they can be neutered. The whole group finds solace in grooming, which they also use as a means of expressing their feelings. They even reduce millipedes to pieces so as to rub that on their body to repel insects and mosquitoes. </div>
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Capuchins are very intelligent mammals and have been known to use various tools which assist them in their daily life. They drink the juice of palm nut fruits from the tip and then let them dry. After they dry, they will collect them and break them with the help of a big boulder collected from the rivers. They have the ability to walk on their feet with food and tools in their hands. They are also clever enough to find food on the ground as well as on trees. Unlike other monkeys, they are omnivorous. Along with eating food like seeds, nuts, fruits, flowers they also feed on eggs of birds, small birds, insects, spiders, reptiles, bats and even small mammals. Some of them who live near water bodies also feed on shellfishes and crabs, which they crack open with the help of stones. </div>
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They aren’t fussy about their environment; hence it is easy to maintain them as pets. People also favor to keep them as pets because they are good organ grinders and also as service animals. They are also kept as pets to help quadriplegics (people whose all four limbs are paralyzed) around the house. They are trained for this purpose by many organizations. They have the capability to open bottles, microwave food and even wash the face of the patient. They are also safe around kids in the house as they are very gentle in nature. They can also be taught tricks and some have even starred in movies. Capuchins are also the most oppressed among the pet animals. They also become troublesome when they reach sexual maturity, which often confuses the owner. </div>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-20667390561990574282017-11-05T11:22:00.001+01:002017-11-05T11:22:40.462+01:00All About DWARF HAMSTERS<div class="zemanta-img">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Phodopus_sungorus_2_-_Colour_corrected.jpg" rel="nofollow" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Winter White Russian Dwarf Hamster" class="zemanta-img-configured" height="468" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/40/Phodopus_sungorus_2_-_Colour_corrected.jpg/350px-Phodopus_sungorus_2_-_Colour_corrected.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Winter White Russian Dwarf Hamster <br />(Photo credit: </span><a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Phodopus_sungorus_2_-_Colour_corrected.jpg" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;" target="_blank">Wikipedia</a><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">)</span></td></tr>
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The phrase dwarf hamster is commonly used to describe a group of hamsters that, although they share common traits, are quite unique in and of themselves.</div>
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All dwarf hamsters belong to the genus Phodopus, with the exception of the Chinese dwarf hamster - it belongs to a different genus altogether but is commonly referred to as a dwarf hamster because it shares so much in common with other dwarf hamsters.</div>
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The biggest difference between dwarf hamsters and Syrian hamsters is that dwarf hamsters tend to be far more social than Syrian hamsters. As you may already know you must never put another hamster in with a Syrian hamster, especially a dwarf hamster. The Syrian hamster is extremely territorial and will kill any other hamster that is introduced to its cage.</div>
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Dwarf hamsters do best when housed with one or two other dwarf hamsters of roughly the same size and breed. This means that although you can house a Campbell's Dwarf hamster with a Winter White hamster it will cause less stress on the hamsters to be housed with dwarf hamsters of their own breed.</div>
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A very important point to keep in mind is that unless you want to start breeding hamsters you must separate the male dwarf hamsters from the female dwarf hamsters. They are sexually mature at a very young age and will get pregnant early and often unless they are separated!<br />
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If you want to have several dwarf hamsters sharing the same cage it's best to get dwarf hamsters that were previously housed with other hamsters as they are used to the company. Be careful when introducing a new hamster to a cage previously occupied by a solitary dwarf hamster - he may have grown used to being alone and may challenge the new arrival.</div>
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If you do introduce a new dwarf hamster to a cage with an existing dwarf hamster then be prepared to hear some interesting hamster sounds and some minor scuffling. Don't be alarmed by this - it's likely due to the two hamsters trying to establish who's boss, and it rarely escalates into serious violence. Monitor the cage to make sure that the original hamster doesn't attack the new arrival - as mentioned above, sometimes they just get used to being alone and won't tolerate any new upstarts!</div>
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The most popular types of dwarf hamsters to keep as pets are the Campbell's Dwarf hamster, the Winter White hamster, the Roborovski hamster, and the Chinese hamster. The most popular of these is the Campbell's Dwarf hamster. The Cambell's Dwarf hamster was discovered in 1902 in Mongolia and is characterized by its trademark furry feet and a short tail. If handled properly the Campbell's Dwarf hamster can be quite tame and friendly.</div>
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Winter White hamsters are unique in the hamster world in that they can change the colour of their fur to a snowy white about once per year. In the wild, this usually occurs around September, but domestic Winter White hamsters can change colour several times per year based on the amount of sunlight they're exposed to.</div>
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Roborovski hamsters tend to be the smallest of the dwarf hamsters, reaching only about two inches in length when fully grown. They are very gentle and extremely fast, so try not to let one escape as you'll have an extremely difficult time getting him back!</div>
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Chinese hamsters are often called the rat-like dwarf hamster, owing to its long tail and thin body. They tend to be more aggressive than the other dwarf hamsters and are better off housed alone, except when you want to breed them. Once breeding is complete the male and female Chinese hamsters should be separated again.</div>
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<td><ul>By <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Adam_King">Adam King</a> - Article Source: <b><a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?All-About-Dwarf-Hamsters&id=804947" target="_blank">EzineArticles</a></b></ul>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5288445883500531656.post-90080783192587536172017-10-29T12:55:00.001+01:002017-10-29T12:55:08.645+01:00Exotic Pets: SUGAR GLIDERS<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMLPcxXWGddD2s1Yji36Ds-OIFE7KRFZkOJvLI79gDz16Yzu5WVHzwe1Wfo3Fp772Uw8izRExCl3oR8Ift0nITcyajCKICsWFdbekJHnP6cisSMiDiPmhXw8RHp8_jXwFp7rxNMhKU6FM/s1600/sugar+glider.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMLPcxXWGddD2s1Yji36Ds-OIFE7KRFZkOJvLI79gDz16Yzu5WVHzwe1Wfo3Fp772Uw8izRExCl3oR8Ift0nITcyajCKICsWFdbekJHnP6cisSMiDiPmhXw8RHp8_jXwFp7rxNMhKU6FM/s640/sugar+glider.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sugar Glider - Photo: <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/plasticrevolver/6622765721" target="_blank">Flickr</a></td></tr>
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Sugar gliders are marsupials belonging to Indonesia, Australia and New Guinea. They are small gliding possums and weight up to three to five oz. They have a silky fur of the color pearl grey with patches of colors cream and black. The black color is usually on their ears and end of the tail. They are named sugar gliders because they are able to glide because of the patagium or the skin membrane which connects the first toe of the hind foot with the fifth finger of the forelimb, on either side. They expand them to create an aerodynamic plane to glide from one tree to another. </div>
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Sugar gliders have the habit of nibbling on each other, and this shouldn’t be confused with biting. They nibble to do many things like testing food, to show affection, force, groom, etc. Babies initially are taught by biting. When they are angered, they get aggressive and bite really hard. So, new owners should be alert until the pets become familiar and stop biting. Care should be taken that this biting shouldn’t turn into a habit. In case, if it turns into a regular behavior, the animal should be held firmly when it bites, so that it cannot move and gets tired of crabbing. Although this takes a long time the pet will eventually get over its natural instinct. The animal must submit to the owner and it shouldn’t be given the feeling it has won. He should also be released very slowly; otherwise, it will bite again and flee. Also, they can be fed with some food, to appreciate their discipline when they start learning. They also become comfortable with humans, when they eat in front of them. Usually, female sugar gliders are tough to tame, especially those which come directly from the wild. </div>
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Sugar gliders come from a very rough environment. They are basically hunting animals. So they should be provided with a rich environment so that they don’t get disturbed mentally. The cage should be very big so that they can leap freely. Small cages hinder the health of the animal. They are also very active and need exercise. Their cage should be equipped with toys like exercise wheels with a diameter of eleven inches. They are also very inquisitive animals, so new things like cardboard boxes should be introduced in their cage from time to time to prevent boredom. The food can also be placed in different places to keep them on their heels. Food can also be hidden in branch holes, which they can dig out. </div>
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The cage of sugar gliders should be cleaned every week to ensure their hygiene. The urine should be spot cleaned as the ammonia in it can be very harmful to the respiratory system of sugar gliders. Also, the moisture can encourage the growth of harmful fungus. If the cage isn’t cleaned for a long time, not only will the occupants become sick but also the house will be filled with odor. Some precautions should be taken while cleaning the cage and also it should be sprayed with disinfectant so as to kill the germs and bacteria. </div>
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Sugar gliders are habituated to living in groups. That is the reason why they have never kept alone as pets, as this will adversely affect their health. It also requires attention from humans around it. They cling to each other when they sleep, so as to keep warm. They communicate with each other by squeaking, crabbing, chirping, and barking. They have a good memory and can retain a grudge against a human after receiving harm from him, even if it was caused by accident. </div>
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Females have the ability to beget offspring every seven to ten months. They give birth to a baby sugar glider after sixteen days of pregnancy, which usually weighs only 0.2 grams. After the birth, the baby shifts to the mother’s pouch, where it stays for seventy days and feeds on milk from the nipples. Both the mother and father have an equal participation in bringing up their offspring. </div>
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Werner Cappelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08268547987866647573noreply@blogger.com0