What To Expect And Prepare For When Keeping FERRETS As Pets

A picture of a ferret's teeth, very white and in good condition
 (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

If you are going to keep a ferret as a pet, then there are a few things you need to keep in mind so that you and your new friend can both lead healthy and happy lives.

First of all, know what you are getting into. Yes, ferrets are quite cuddly and cute, but they have certain needs that must be met and they have personalities that can get them into trouble and possibly hurt. You need to be one hundred percent sure that you are capable of meeting these needs so to provide for a happy and healthy environment for your ferret and you need to also be sure that you can have the patience that may be needed when they become mischievous.

So let's take a look at all of the needs of your new ferret, and what you will have to do to provide these needs for them.

It is an absolute necessity that you take the proper measures to make your home a safe environment for your new pet ferret. By this, you will need to take appropriate action to "ferret proof" your home to the greatest extent possible. You will need to ensure that even the smallest opening that you would think be impossible for your ferret to squeeze into, be sealed. You will actually be very surprised and even shocked at times, the small places they tend to find themselves getting into. After all, you wouldn't want to lose your new ferret in the wall of your home, or in your kitchen stove and other appliances would you? Make sure to seal or attach some type of barrier that will not allow them access to places like under your refrigerator, the kitchen stove, your laundry washing machine, and dryer. In the case of the clothes dryer, make sure that the vent hose is securely attached to the wall properly so to not allow them access to inside the vent. Just remember, think small and seal it all. All of these little precautions taken before you bring your ferret to its new home, will be well worth the effort and keep your ferret safe and out of harm's way.

Ferret Cages

Though many people let their ferrets have run of the house, there will almost assuredly come a time when you may have to leave your home even if it is just for a short period of time. It is this situation where having a ferret kennel or ferret cage will not only come in handy but also provide protection for your ferret if from nothing else; themselves.

When you choose a ferret habitat, it does not necessarily have to be a ferret McMansion but it should be sizable enough to offer enough room for bursts of playful energy that will most certainly erupt when they are not sleeping. The ferret cage should also be made comfortable and an enjoyable place for them to call home when you are not.

There should be small and dark places for them to squeeze into since this is one of their favorite things to do. You can provide for this need in several ways. An old box of cereal can make for days upon days of comfortable "hiding" places for your little ferret buddy. An old backpack that you may not be using will also make a good ferret hiding place just so long as it is presented in a way that will allow easy entry and escape, and also made so that there is no way for them to suffocate. You can also make a tube for your ferret to hide and crawl in out of old PVC pipe material or even an old clothes dryer vent hose.

Many ferret cages already come equipped with everything your ferret needs to be comfortable and happy. With tubes, ladders, and little ferret hammocks there will not be too much else that you will need to provide for entertainment. Save some toys. One of the best things you can get to add to your ferret's habitat is people baby toy sets. You know, those sets that have rattles and shiny big bells that make noise. Just be sure that the bells are large enough so that your ferret does not run the risk of ingesting it. That will be another topic covered later in this reading, the ingesting of objects topic.

Once you have their new habitat all set up and they seemed pleased with it, you will need to make sure that you provide a litter box for your ferret and you will also need to make sure that you keep the litter box away from where their food and water are kept in their cage. Just like us humans, they don't want to eat where they do. You will also need to keep the litter box cleaned on a regular basis, preferably at least once a day, since they can be pretty picky about this topic. It is also advisable to use the pelleted type of ferret litter over the clumping kind, as the clumping kind can cause the ferret's nasal passageways to become irritated.

Once you take all of these steps, you will be well on your way to providing your ferret with a decent and healthy environment they will be glad to call home.

Food and Water

Now we can move on to the topic of your new ferret's diet and nutritional needs. Overall it is pretty simple as far as their diet goes, but I will expound on the subject to include other nutritional factors and some sources to help you find them.

Water, of course, is an absolute must and it must be clean. Rather than just a regular water dish (though that will do), it might be advisable to get your ferret used to taking water from a small animal water bottle. The same style used for both rabbits and guinea pigs. This will allow for easy access to clean fresh water at all times and will also provide a spill free way for your ferret to drink without having to worry about messes and "extra" play time that they might engage in.

A ferrets diet is relatively simple, protein and fat. The ferret's digestive tract is not made to handle the fiber of fruits and vegetables, it is specifically designed for the consumption and digestion of meat. Your little cute ferret buddy is a ravenous carnivore and will always be. So even if you are a stark vegetarian, there is no converting your ferret to your lifestyle. Otherwise, you may have a very uncomfortable and sick ferret on your hands and you would not want that. Once you understand that, providing a food source is easy.

So let's examine some good sources of protein-rich high-fat food sources. As a rule of thumb, the ratio between protein content and fat content for your ferret should be about thirty-five (35) to thirty-eight (38) percent protein and about twenty-two (22) to twenty five(25) percent fat. Both of these need to be from high-quality sources as some ferret foods contain proteins made from vegetable matter which will cause your ferret to have some digestive problems.

You should take great care and the time to actually read the ingredients on any container of ferret food you are considering purchasing. It is also important to note that while it may be tempting to purchase a cheaper brand of ferret food, the protein content of these items is generally much less than those that are higher in price. So you would be basically spending the same or even more in the long run as your ferret would require more food intake from these inferior products. This too would lead to the necessity of cleaning the litter box more often than if you feed them the proper protein ratios, to begin with since they cannot digest it, they get rid of it. This will lead to using more litter adding to your expense.

Always look for food that has a meat product listed as the number one ingredient. This should be poultry or some other type of poultry protein variant. Fish meal based products are ok, but they are going to have a strong fish smell to them, so it is advisable to stick with poultry proteins and poultry by-products.

Ferrets require at a minimum, thirty(30) percent protein intake every day, just to lead a healthy life. If you are feeding your ferret the properly balanced diet of protein and fat, then there should be no need for any type of dietary supplement. However; that said, some ferret owners give their ferrets fatty acid supplements like ferretone or linatone. These two products should be used in strict moderation as it can lead to your ferret becoming obese. With the proper diet, these types of products should only be used for rewards and special treats.

Proteins and fats are essential for your ferrets well being and health. The high protein part of their diet aids in strong muscle growth and development while the fat portion of the diet gives them the energy they need to be the rambunctious critters that they are.

Though fiber, as a rule, is a substance that should be avoided, some fiber is necessary for proper intestinal function. Carbohydrates, like those found in the binders of their food(rice, soy, and corn), can be sources of energy for your ferret but not as good a source as that of fat.

Speaking of the binders that make up part of your ferret's food, it is rice that is perhaps the best and most tolerable of all as it is easily digested and has enough fiber to aid your ferret's bowel movements. Some veterinarians recommend that you limit your ferret's intake of soy, another filler used, as it may cause hormonal problems later in your ferret's life. Though that has neither been formally proven or dis-proven, soy is still tolerated very well by the ferret's digestive system. Corn, on the other hand, is one filler that you have to watch out for as some ferrets can develop a food allergy to it.

Some of the signs that your ferret may be allergic to the corn bound food it may be eating are irregular or soft stools, stools with a mucus, gas and bloating, and pawing at the mouth because of stomach upset. If you suspect that your ferret is having an allergic reaction to the food it is eating, then it is highly advisable to get them to your veterinarian as quickly as possible. The long-term effects of this food allergy can lead to the hardening of the bowels and ulcerations.

Vitamins are essential for ferret health as well, but it would be advisable to consult with a veterinarian or other ferret specialist before starting some regime of vitamin supplementation as they can develop a toxicity when given too much or too often.

Minerals are important for ferret health as well, there again, as stated above it would do your ferret best to consult an expert before starting a mineral supplement program on your own as this too could become life-threatening to your ferret if the doses are not administered properly.

If you are using a high-quality ferret food, to begin with, almost every vitamin and mineral needed by your ferret is provided in the food they eat.

Grooming

Grooming your ferret is also important. Though it is not a good idea to bathe them often, they will need a bath, a brushing, and claw clipping on occasion. Let's take a look at the best practices for these chores.

Bathing your ferret will become a ritual, to say the least. Some ferrets take to the water pretty well and actually enjoy swimming around and having fun, while others will need your absolute patience and assistance in the bathing ritual.

(Not too often.)

You should only give your ferret a bath a maximum of one bath each month. The reason being that frequent bathing washes away the essential oils needed for healthy ferret skin and coat. Some say that a bath every two to three months is best, but that's up to you just as long as you are aware that bathing too often is bad for your ferret.

The water temperature should be should be warm to touch but definitely not too hot. You should use a very gentle shampoo like baby shampoo and lather the fuzzy up real good. You need to take great care as to not get any soap into the eyes or ears of your ferret. If you do, try to rinse it out as quickly as possible. Also, make sure that when you are rinsing off your ferret to not leave any soap residue on them because it will dry out their skin and also try to not let them get chilled.

When drying, try to get it done as soon as possible.

Keeping your ferret brushed and well groomed also helps prevent the hairball problem and is good for their coat. You can do this as often as you like, but be gentle of course when doing so.

Claw trimming will also be necessary from time to time. It is very important that great care and caution is taken when doing so. Be extra careful not to trim too close to the nail quick, because just like for us humans, it will hurt them as well. You can pick up the tools you need for this at almost any pet store and it would be a good idea, especially if you are completely new to ferrets, to have a professional groomer show you the ropes in the beginning.

Ferrets and disease

Ferrets are susceptible to a number of diseases and other health problems. Knowing this beforehand can prepare you for what is inevitable at some point in your ferret's life.

Here are some of the diseases that your ferret may encounter. Not saying that it is a guarantee that your that your ferret will get a disease, it is just that they have become predisposed to certain illnesses and diseases over the years. So the chance for some type of illness is somewhat greater. Below is a partial list of common ferret diseases that you can use for reference to investigate on your own further. This list is by no means all of the diseases they can get.

Pyogenic Infections:

1. Subcutaneous Abscesses

2. Pyometra and Vaginitis/Vulvar Cellulitis

3. Proliferative Colitis

4. Helicobacter Infections

5. Mastitis

6. Dermatophytosis

7. Salmonellosis

8. Tuberculosis

9. Botulism

Metabolic:

1. Hyperadrenocorticism

2. Hypoglycemia

3. Diabetes Mellitus

4. Hyperestrogenism

5. Eclamptogenic Toxemia and Nursing Sickness

Other Types Of Disease:

1. Gastrointestinal Foreign Body

2. Urolithiasis

3. Posterior Paralysis

4. Gastric Ulcers

5. Congestive Heart Disease

6. Dental Disease

7. Heat Stroke

8. Nutritional Diseases

Cancers:

1. Adrenal tumors

2. Insulinoma

3. Lymphosarcoma

4. Chordomas

5. Mast cell tumors, basal cell tumors and sebaceous cell tumors

As you can see, there are quite a few diseases that you will have to stay on the lookout for. This is not even a complete list. They are even prone to catch the human flu virus, so if you ever find yourself with the flu, it might do your ferret well to stay away from you. For more information on that and all of the other diseases they can get, I would suggest doing a search online yourself for all of the different diseases ferrets are prone to. There is no need to constantly be afraid for your ferret's health, but it is a good idea as always to get educated.

Well, we have certainly covered a lot of ground concerning being prepared and what it takes to have a ferret as a pet. It is a responsibility just the same as a dog, a cat, or even a child. There is no one or nothing else to look out for and take care of your ferret but you.

In recap, we talked about ferret-proofing your home so that your new ferret can live safe and sound. We talked about your ferret's diet, grooming, diseases, and habitat.

Ferret Habits

Now let's wrap this up with ferret habits. This should be interesting.

The word ferret partly originated from the Latin word for thief. So that should speak volumes for you. Be prepared for things to come up missing. Especially shiny pretty things. If your car keys come up missing, they probably are not under the couch cushion.

Ferrets are very inquisitive, this, of course, can lead to some serious trouble for them so that is why that it is imperative that you pay attention to what they are doing and what they are getting into.

Ferrets also tend to like to chew on soft rubber objects so it is wise to keep an eye out for chewable electric cords and cables, tennis shoe soles, sponges, and anything else chewable. This habit can cause all sorts of issues, especially if the material is ingested. This can cause intestinal blockage and will most likely require a trip to the animal ER, so make sure to do a walk around of your home a few times a day all the while on the lookout for rubber bands and other chewable things they might swallow.

Be sure that your ferret does not have any access to any of your household cleaning products as common sense should tell you that it will be fatal for your ferret.

If you have other pets, be aware that while ferrets can get along with and live with other animals; however, if you have a pet bird it would do you well to keep your bird out of the reach of your ferret. Can you say free lunch!

As mentioned at the beginning of this article, ferrets love to tunnel and explore. It's in their very nature. That is why you must make sure that every small hole is sealed. That includes where pipes and plumbing come out of walls and electrical outlets too. Give them an inch and they will take a mile. Seriously, all the opening they need is about an inch and they can squeeze themselves through.

Don't be alarmed when your ferret does a war dance in front of you. It is just a sign that they are excited and in a playful mood and that's what you call all that jumping and twisting about. So entertain them just like they entertain you.

I do hope you have found some insight into what to expect if you ever decide to bring a ferret into your home and have taken away some knowledge that you may not have known before otherwise.

Just know that this is by far not all the information to know about ferrets and how to take good care of them. There is still plenty of useful information for you to find for yourself online or at your local library, pet store, and most importantly from other ferret keepers.

By CS David - Article Source: EzineArticles

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Taming a Skunk Problem On Your Property

Hooded Skunk - Photo: Pixabay

Have you been scratching your head, trying to figure out a way to stop pesky skunks from trespassing onto your property? Has your dog been sprayed one too many times by a skunk that seems to never go away? Are you fed up with that distinct skunk smell outside of your house every day? If you have answered yes to any of these questions, then you need to read this article. Continue reading to learn effective methods for skunk removal and control that you can implement as soon as today!

Skunk Removal and Control

There are certain steps a homeowner can take that will make their property seem undesirable to skunks and other pesky critters. As long as you do the things mentioned in this article, you should have no problem taming a skunk infestation on your property. Keep in mind that the most common area for a skunk to hang out is under the front porch or patio. For some unknown reason, they prefer these dark, cooler areas. Probably a means to protect themselves and their young from being visible to predators; but the problem is, they are usually invisible to us as well.

So now you know that if you cannot figure out where a skunk is on your property, but you smell it, it is most likely underneath the porch or deck. Do not try to take a look or attempt to trap, touch, or harm any skunks. Not only is this illegal without a proper permit, it is wrong. There are several safe and humane ways to get rid of skunks other than killing or harming them.

As for yourself, there are many DIY methods to preventing skunks from living on or around your home, but if you find a colony of baby and mother skunks, you must call a local animal control company for professional assistance. They use sage and humane methods to extract skunks and relocate them to a faraway and safer habitat. Now back to the DIY approach. Here are six DIY skunk-fending tips for your home and property:

1. If you know there are no skunks beneath your porch or patio, go ahead and block off all access point so they cannot make this area their home in the future. Be diligent with this because skunks can surprisingly squeeze through some very small spaces.

2. Never leave pet food or dishes outside. This is a free, easy, and tasty snack for skunks and many other wild animals. If you have bags of pet food in your shed or garage, be sure to lock them up.

3. Remove all other food sources from your property, including bird feeders and squirrel feeders.

4. If you have a garden, always be sure to install fencing around them to prevent skunks from accessing any crops.

5. Never take the trash out the night before garbage pickup day. And always secure the trash can lids to prevent animals from smelling food and enticing them to find it.

6. Eliminate hiding spots for skunks by keeping tall grass and weeds mowed. If they cannot hide, they will not enter the premises at all.

By Sarahbeth Kluzinski Call Wildlife Animal Removal at 317-257-2290 for safe and humane skunk removal services in Indianapolis, Indiana. Visit their website at http://www.wildliferemovalindianapolis.com/Indianapolis-skunk-removal.php for contact and company information. They are DNR licensed animal control specialists that also provide services for all other types of nuisance wildlife, such as raccoons, moles, bats, squirrels, opossum, snakes, rabbits, and more. Call 317-257-2290 for free information and advice regarding skunk removal and control in Indianapolis, IN today. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Spiders Have Special Benefits- But Beware Of That Bite!

Black Widow - Photo: Wikimedia

Many Americans warmly welcome four-legged friends into their homes, but few are comfortable when creatures with eight legs wander in from outside.

Even though they make you shriek, some spiders play a positive role around your home by preying on other pests. For some homeowners, their contributions to reducing unwanted insects far outweigh the fear they evoke.

"Many household spiders are not dangerous to humans," said Orkin, Inc. entomologist Ron Harrison, Ph.D. "However, there are a few species with a venomous bite. The key is distinguishing between those that make harmless houseguests and those that present a threat to your family." 

Several spiders can protect your home from pesky invaders. Cellar spiders-the web-spinning species most common in homes have been known to prey on black widow spiders. Some, like the spiny orb weaver and house spiders, can hunt crickets and small flying insects. Wolf spiders can help rid lawns and gardens of common pests. Even the brown recluse-the most dangerous spider to humans-can assist by eating cockroaches, silverfish, and other soft-bodied insects.

When protecting your family from venomous spiders, it is important to identify key characteristics of harmful species like the black widow, brown recluse and yellow sac spiders, whose bites can cause severe skin irritations.

• Black Widow: Females are shiny black, with a red hourglass-shaped mark on their abdomen.
• Brown Recluse: This spider is yellowish to brown in color, with a dark brown violin-shaped back marking; legs are long and thin with fine hair.
• Yellow Sac: This spider has yellow coloring; its abdomen is often much brighter than its head or legs.

According to a survey conducted by Orkin, Inc., spiders have a noticeable presence in two out of three American households. So when spiders make frequent appearances in your home, trust an experienced professional to identify the species, consider its web-building or hunting behaviors and determine the best way to control the infestation. 

Homeowners can take some steps to prevent spider invasions and reduce potentially harmful encounters, such as removing food sources and discouraging nesting by keeping low-traffic areas, such as cellars or closets, clear. However, a licensed pest control company should be called upon to treat and repel spider infestations.

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Guide to Keeping PET MICE - Choosing, Feeding, Housing and Enjoying

Pet Mice - Photo: Pexels

Choosing Your Pet Mice

So, you have decided to buy some pet mice. You need to first decide how many mice you are going to have. This is best determined by what size cage you have for them. You need to allow them as much space as a gerbil, hamster or other small rodents. Never have one mouse on its own, however, mice are social animals and get very lonely when kept on their own, this often leads to them getting sick.

Next, you need to decide between female and male mice. Keeping a mix of males and females will almost certainly mean you'll have a litter of 'pups' as baby mice are called before long. This is irresponsible unless you are intending to breed your mice intentionally.

So the pros and cons of males and females are as follows:

Males - They tend to fight among themselves occasionally to hold territory and can be a bit smelly. On the plus side, they are bigger than females, tend to not get sick as often and are less fidgety with you making them easier to handle.

Females - They can be weaker and sometimes get sick. When you are handling females they don't tend to stay still for long, always trying to run off. On the plus side, they do not have hardly any odor at all and will rarely if ever fight among themselves.

So there are the pros and cons, it's up to you to take a few moments to consider what sex you want your mice to be.

Feeding You Pet Mice

Mice are fairly popular pets in most countries. It should not be hard to find some prepared mice food available at your local pet store. If there is not a specific food mix for mice, hamster food will usually do, just check with a pet store professional first to make sure.

You can give pieces of most fruits and vegetables to your mice to if you want to balance out their diet some more.

Remember to keep some fresh water in their cage too in a bottle or bowl. You should only need to fill up their water and food bowl once a day, usually in the evening is the best time as mice are nocturnal and will be waking up around then.

Housing Your Pet Mice

This is the easy and fun bit. You get to shop around for a cage that you think will fit into space in your home and house your mice comfortably. It's best to go as large as you can afford or accommodate if it has an exercise wheel and other toys/obstacles inside this will benefit the mice.

You are going to be cleaning it out once a week so don't keep it anywhere hard to access. Lay some wood shavings down for bedding and give your mice some cardboard tubes to chew on and play in.

Enjoying Your Pet Mice

Now you have your mice and everything set up for them its time to enjoy them. Most people find it relaxing to have them in view so you can see them building nests and playing with obstacles. Try and handle them at least every other day and they will be a lot tamer, they might even start approaching you as you put your hand into the cage. Feed them some treats in the palm of your hand or give them a stroke and observe how happy they are.

By Phil Avent Phil Avent is a freelance writer and blogger. For more information regarding looking after pet mice visit http://petmiceblog.co.uk/. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Exotic Pets: Cheetahs

Cheetah - Photo: Wikipedia

Cheetah is one of the exotic animals which are kept as pets since five thousand years and can be dated back to Ancient Egyptian civilization. Initially, they were used for hunting. Scientifically known as Acinonyx Jubatus, they are fastest of the wild cats and also amongst the animals but aren’t good at climbing trees like other cats. They are capable of reaching a speed of seventy miles per hour and within merely three seconds they can accelerate from zero mph to seventy mph. The length of the cheetah’s body ranges from forty-five to fifty-five inches and the weight ranges from ninety to one hundred and forty pounds.  

They originated from Africa and can be found in other parts of the world such as Central Asia and Iran. They have an elongated body with a small head and narrow waist, which facilitates aerodynamics. Cheetahs have semi-retractable blunt claws which help them to get a good grip during fast pursuits. The color of its coarse fur is tan and has small black spots.  A rare kind of cheetah known as King Cheetah is larger in size with big merging spots. Its Thirty-three-inch long tail is encircled with five to six black circles and it helps in taking sharp turns as it acts like a rudder. Black lines which start from its eyes and run along the sides of the nose towards the mouth are called tear marks. These lines enable them to see long distances and minimize the glare of the sun.  

Cheetahs can be trained very easily and also they are very caring animals. They make noises such as chirp, yowl, yip, growl and hiss and their purr is very deafening. But they do not have the ability to roar like other big cats and also are diurnal, whereas others are nocturnal. They are carnivorous animals and hunt for small mammals and young ones of larger mammals. Cheetahs hunt when it isn’t hot, like at dawn and dusk. They also do not go after animals which they cannot get hold of easily and they hunt not by smell but by vision. Nearly fifty percent of attempts end in failure as they give up fast. One of the reasons can be the immense heat which is generated while running, which can be serious for the animal. They rest for at least half hour after the intense chase.  They also have the ability to make sounds of some birds, in order to catch them. 

Cheetahs always eye for the animal which is distant from its herd. It chases the animal and then trips it. After the animal falls, it suffocates the animal by biting underneath the throat as it does not have the strength to break the neck. For some reason, they do not hunt weak and old animals. During high-speed chases, cheetahs can get adequate oxygen with the help of big nostrils. They also have an enlarged heart and lungs which utilize the oxygen to the maximum by increasing the respiratory rate while running. 

Cheetahs also fall under the category of endangered species. Many organizations and acts have been implemented to conserve them. One of the reasons for their endangerment is that they are environmentally sensitive and are the most vulnerable. When held in captivity, they should be provided with their natural habitat. Studies have proven that there is a lack of genetic diversity in cheetahs which are held in captivity. They don’t reproduce regularly like other felines and find it difficult to breed. Also, their lifespan decreases and the rate of survival are low. In residential areas, they have been killed by poachers on large scale for protecting cattle. Such farmers are now being provided with dogs that can guard the livestock and scare away the wild cheetah. It has also being hunted for its fur with a beautiful pattern. 

To obtain a permit to keep cheetahs as pets are not only a big problem for individual owners but also for big zoos. People who have a passion for cheetahs and haven’t got the permission to own them can donate generously to conserve the species.

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Exotic Pets: Capuchin Monkey

Capuchin Monkey - Photo: Pixabay

Capuchin monkeys had their name derived from the Franciscan Capuchin whose cowl is similar to the coloration of the monkeys. They belong to the Cebinae family and Cebus genus. These monkeys are found in Central America and South America. Also known as sapajou, these species of monkeys are considered to be the most intelligent of all present species of monkeys. 

The face, neck, and chest of capuchins are white colored whereas the rest of the body is either brown or black colored. Their body grows up to twelve to twenty-two inches in height and their hairy tails are also usually the same length as the body. Their average body weight is two pounds. The males weigh more than the females. When they are held in captivity, they can live up to forty-five years, but in the wild habitat, they can live only for fifteen to twenty-five years. They stay awake during the day and sleep at night except for the midday nap they take. During the day, they spend most of the time looking for food and at night, they sleep on the branches of the trees. 

Capuchins are very social and live in a group of eight to forty males, females and their children. The area where the whole group lives together is marked by the smell of urine and intruders are not welcomed. A strong male controls the whole group and mates with the rest of the females in the group to produce offspring. Male and female capuchins smell each other to know whether the other is sexually mature or not. A female capuchin monkey has the capability of reproducing after every two years. Their pregnancy period lasts from five to six months.

The offspring clings to the chest of the mother and when they grow big enough, they shift to their back. They expect their mothers to babysit till they are three months old. Male capuchins have no participation in the upbringing of their offspring. But if people want to keep them as pets, before keeping them as pets, they can be neutered.  The whole group finds solace in grooming, which they also use as a means of expressing their feelings.  They even reduce millipedes to pieces so as to rub that on their body to repel insects and mosquitoes.  

Capuchins are very intelligent mammals and have been known to use various tools which assist them in their daily life. They drink the juice of palm nut fruits from the tip and then let them dry. After they dry, they will collect them and break them with the help of a big boulder collected from the rivers. They have the ability to walk on their feet with food and tools in their hands. They are also clever enough to find food on the ground as well as on trees. Unlike other monkeys, they are omnivorous. Along with eating food like seeds, nuts, fruits, flowers they also feed on eggs of birds, small birds, insects, spiders, reptiles, bats and even small mammals. Some of them who live near water bodies also feed on shellfishes and crabs, which they crack open with the help of stones.  

They aren’t fussy about their environment; hence it is easy to maintain them as pets. People also favor to keep them as pets because they are good organ grinders and also as service animals. They are also kept as pets to help quadriplegics (people whose all four limbs are paralyzed) around the house. They are trained for this purpose by many organizations. They have the capability to open bottles, microwave food and even wash the face of the patient. They are also safe around kids in the house as they are very gentle in nature. They can also be taught tricks and some have even starred in movies. Capuchins are also the most oppressed among the pet animals. They also become troublesome when they reach sexual maturity, which often confuses the owner. 

  

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All About DWARF HAMSTERS

Winter White Russian Dwarf Hamster
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The phrase dwarf hamster is commonly used to describe a group of hamsters that, although they share common traits, are quite unique in and of themselves.

All dwarf hamsters belong to the genus Phodopus, with the exception of the Chinese dwarf hamster - it belongs to a different genus altogether but is commonly referred to as a dwarf hamster because it shares so much in common with other dwarf hamsters.

The biggest difference between dwarf hamsters and Syrian hamsters is that dwarf hamsters tend to be far more social than Syrian hamsters. As you may already know you must never put another hamster in with a Syrian hamster, especially a dwarf hamster. The Syrian hamster is extremely territorial and will kill any other hamster that is introduced to its cage.

Dwarf hamsters do best when housed with one or two other dwarf hamsters of roughly the same size and breed. This means that although you can house a Campbell's Dwarf hamster with a Winter White hamster it will cause less stress on the hamsters to be housed with dwarf hamsters of their own breed.

A very important point to keep in mind is that unless you want to start breeding hamsters you must separate the male dwarf hamsters from the female dwarf hamsters. They are sexually mature at a very young age and will get pregnant early and often unless they are separated!

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If you want to have several dwarf hamsters sharing the same cage it's best to get dwarf hamsters that were previously housed with other hamsters as they are used to the company. Be careful when introducing a new hamster to a cage previously occupied by a solitary dwarf hamster - he may have grown used to being alone and may challenge the new arrival.

If you do introduce a new dwarf hamster to a cage with an existing dwarf hamster then be prepared to hear some interesting hamster sounds and some minor scuffling. Don't be alarmed by this - it's likely due to the two hamsters trying to establish who's boss, and it rarely escalates into serious violence. Monitor the cage to make sure that the original hamster doesn't attack the new arrival - as mentioned above, sometimes they just get used to being alone and won't tolerate any new upstarts!

The most popular types of dwarf hamsters to keep as pets are the Campbell's Dwarf hamster, the Winter White hamster, the Roborovski hamster, and the Chinese hamster. The most popular of these is the Campbell's Dwarf hamster. The Cambell's Dwarf hamster was discovered in 1902 in Mongolia and is characterized by its trademark furry feet and a short tail. If handled properly the Campbell's Dwarf hamster can be quite tame and friendly.

Winter White hamsters are unique in the hamster world in that they can change the colour of their fur to a snowy white about once per year. In the wild, this usually occurs around September, but domestic Winter White hamsters can change colour several times per year based on the amount of sunlight they're exposed to.

Roborovski hamsters tend to be the smallest of the dwarf hamsters, reaching only about two inches in length when fully grown. They are very gentle and extremely fast, so try not to let one escape as you'll have an extremely difficult time getting him back!

Chinese hamsters are often called the rat-like dwarf hamster, owing to its long tail and thin body. They tend to be more aggressive than the other dwarf hamsters and are better off housed alone, except when you want to breed them. Once breeding is complete the male and female Chinese hamsters should be separated again.

By Adam King - Article Source: EzineArticles

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