Minimize PET DANDER Symptoms - 5 Ways To Reduce Allergy Symptoms

If you live with pets, it is likely that your allergies are at least in part triggered by the protein in your pet's dander. The symptoms result when your immune system determines that it is harmful and tries to eliminate it.

Since all warm-blooded animals shed dander, it doesn't matter if you love a dog, cat, bird, or ferret, they all have the potential to trigger symptoms. So if you know you have allergies fish make nice pets without the dander. But if you've already fallen in love with something other than fish, here are 5 ways to minimize the symptoms your pet causes.

Keep Cleaning---Pets give a lot of love, and in return those of us who love them unconditionally know that there will be more clean up involved.

The house dust mite, its feces and chitin are common allergens around the home (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

You will know how often you need to clean based on how much dust your friend creates. Remember to avoid dry cleaning (dusting, sweeping) and opt for cleaning with water.

Remember to wash pet bedding as dust mites will eat pet dander too. Wash any area rugs weekly. Use window coverings that can we washed or wiped down to keep particulates from accumulating.

Limit piles because they create extra surface area where dust can and will settle. Keep knick-knacks to a minimum for the same reason. Reducing these 2 things alone will cut down greatly on what you have to clean each week.

Keep The Numbers Low---Don't let a big heart get you in over your head.. So the temptation is to save every pooch with big eyes. Ultimately that is not the best thing for either of you.

Having large numbers of warm-blooded animals will increase the dander factor exponentially. This will eventually make it hard for you to breathe, often forcing the owner to place pets in a new home or a shelter. And that's hard on everyone. You can't explain your decision to your pet. Less is actually better.

Consider Baths---Always check with the veterinarian before implementing a bath regimen. However, this can often drastically reduce the amount of hair, dander, dust, and/or feathers that is available for your pet to send into the air.

Use Allergy-Friendly Furnishings---What's this you are probably wondering? It's using furniture and accessories that allow particles to fall to the floor. Smooth surfaces rather than woven are best.

Leather or leather-like surfaces on chairs and sofas are an excellent choice because they will not allow particles to accumulate and can be easily and thoroughly wiped down to take particles out of circulation for good.

Flooring choices include area rugs, linoleum, tile, slate and other non-porous surfaces. Avoid wall-to-wall carpet because it is hard to clean thoroughly, and in between cleanings it allows a tremendous number of particulates and odors to accumulate.

The slightest amount of movement on the carpet will cause the particles to go airborne and available for you to inhale. This produces a catch-22 situation that can cause allergy symptoms to be annoying and on-going.

Filter The Air----Regardless of how careful you are, and how many steps you take to minimize the allergens generated by pets and other normal indoor activities, you will still have more than you want in your air.

The most reliable way to eliminate them consistently and effectively is to use multiple-sized filters to eliminate them from the air. Pre-filters are effective yet inexpensive ways to remove visible particulates.

The high efficiency particle arresting or HEPA filter is an excellent fit for microscopic particles like dander, mold and mildew spores, and dust mites. Designed to eliminate 99,997 out of every 10,000 particles that are .3 microns or larger, it is the best filter for the job.

Not only is this type of filtration effective it is also safe producing only fresh air as a by-product. Avoid those units that produce any amount of ozone or ionized particles. Experts can't seem to agree about if and how much is safe for living things.

Let the Pet Dander Air Purifier from PurerAir.com send 250 cubic feet of fresh, clean air into your home every 60 seconds.  See it now at  http://purerair.com/pet_dander_air_purifier.html Article Source:  EzineArticles

Treating Your RABBITS Broken Leg Without Breaking Your Bank

Having a bunny break a leg can be traumatic for both you and your bunny. Treating can be very expensive. Heres an artcile describing what we decided to do for our bunny, and her excellent recovery.  

Domestic bunny (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Having a bunny break its leg can be a very traumatic experience for both the bunny and for you. We raise holland lops, and the tort color often does well on the show table. We have had several colored rabbits with big wins but wanted to add tort to our herd. We purchased a tort doe over the internet, and had her delivered at a show we were attending. That was the last time we agreed to buy a rabbit without first seeing it. The doe was very skittish. The day after picking up the rabbit, our oldest daughter took the doe from her cage, the doe freaked out and jumped from her arms, unto our carpeted floor. 

My daughter called me over and said I think there’s something wrong with the rabbit. Her left hind leg was dangling as if she had no control over it. At first I thought she may have dislocated her hip, but upon feeling that area found no dislocation. My next thought was a broken leg. I felt her leg looking for a break as there was no visible sign of a break. Again I found nothing. I decided to check again for a dislocation, and that’s when I found a break on her femur, near the hip. 

I began my search for a veterinarian that could possibly reset the leg. We finally found a vet about an hour away that would be able to do it. The cost would be from $500 - $1500 to set the leg, depending on the x-rays they would need to take, and if surgery would be necessary. The cost was out of the question, and we decided to look for answers elsewhere. 

We received many suggestions, including putting the rabbit down, to trying to reset the leg myself. Since neither of seemed to be options that we wanted to take. We decided to treat the bunny ourselves without resetting the leg. This was a difficult choice as this beautiful doe would no longer be showable, but we would be able to use her as pet, or if all went well a brood doe. 

The biggest concern in treating a broken leg is mobility. It is important to stabilize the leg as much as possible and keep the bunny from moving the leg. We decided she would have to stay in a carrying cage for the 6-8 weeks it would take for her leg to heal. We considered putting a towel next to her to further reduce her ability to move within the carrying cage, but decided against it for sanitary reasons. 

Being immobilized for such a long period of time also gave us other health concerns. We constantly monitored her food, water and hay intake. We also checked to make sure there were ample droppings in the wood shavings. 

We were prepared to give her pain medications in the beginning. However, she never showed any visible signs that she was in pain. Of course everyone wanted to hold and comfort her while she spent the 7 ½ weeks in the carrying cage, but she was simply off limits. Her leg needed to heal and the more she was moved around the longer it would have taken for the leg to heal. 

Finally we took her out, and moved her into a regular sized cage after 7 ½ weeks. Surprisingly, she was in fairly good flesh condition. She was getting around well on the healed leg, despite the fact that the leg didn’t heal completely straight. It turns out slightly away from her body, as though it is twisted. 

We have bred her to one of our bucks. She needed a little assistance in lifting for buck during mating, but did real well with it. Soon she’ll be having her first litter. Yes, the broken leg eliminated her chances of being shown. But it didn’t eliminate her value to our rabbitry.

Author: Rob Usakowski

Your Pet CHINCHILLA And Environmental Stress

Environmental stress can affect your pet chinchilla in different ways.  This type of stress results in either health or behavioral issues.  Your pet can experience the following:  anti-social behavior that includes biting, fighting, spraying urine, fungus, or irritation of the eyes.  Your pet can also feel angst toward other chinchillas, biting the fur, gnawing on their cage or even depression.  

Rocky sloap near Auco, Andinas, Chile. Natural area of the wild Chinchilla lanigera. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Unless you know in advance, you won't necessarily detect that one of these actions can come from environmental stress.  You usually find out when the behavior or illness becomes a chronic issue.  If you are not aware of the issues of environmental stress, your pet may be more prone to suffer the after-effects.

If your pet is hyper, environmental stress will just compound the way they're already feeling.  In order for them to get a grip, behavioral rehabilitation would help them regain their footing.  Of course, if your pet is already easy-going, then rehabilitation is not necessary.  Environmental stress can affect how the chinchilla was treated, before and now.  Environmental stress can affect your animal if they were abused or handled badly.  This in turn, can cause them to exhibit anti-social tendencies towards the next owner.  

If your pet is experiencing boredom, this may eventually suffer from stress.  Your pet should be in an environment where there is some movement and noise.  On the other hand, enduring constant loud noise can take its toll on them, also.  It's better for them to have noise, but it should be at a moderate level.  This way, if they do experience noise out of the ordinary, such as people, thunderstorms, etc., they'll know how to handle it.  Your pet has to have a happy medium between the two extremes (boredom and chaotic noise).

Your pet will have to make adjustments if they came from an environment where there was boredom or chaos.  They'll have to make adjustments to the unfamiliar and unknown.  Like a human being, your pet will feel strange because all they know at the moment is the environment to which they were accustomed to.  It may take your pet at least a week to regroup.  You can help by putting them in a quiet room with some soft jazz music.  There should be no other pets in the house while your pet is getting acclimated to different surroundings, including the owner.

Giving your pet this transition time is crucial and imperative because if they came from a chaotic environment, they will have to learn to relax and if they came from a boredom environment, they must have time to get in the groove to handle noise in a timely manner.  If they take on too much too quickly, your pet can get overwhelmed, causing additional stress.

You will have to learn to be sensitive to their needs and get a sense of when they might be ready.  It's always best to start out small and gradual, then work your way up with your chinchilla.  This way, your pet can accept the gradual transition with ease.     

What is a SUGAR GLIDER ?

Sugar gliders, intelligent and playful pets are known to have come from Australia. Reputed for being social animals, these soft animals live in groups. Sugar gliders have been named so for their eating habits - they love to eat the sugar syrup oozing from the trees. Sugar gliders can be kept on the lines of flying squirrels. Adult sugar gliders can grow to about one foot or little more, including tail. This attention-grabbing pet is a great site to watch. A sugar glider can change your mood instantly with his playful attitude. Experts recommend having at least two sugar gliders as pets. Single sugar glider will need all of your attention for the most of the day. If he is not given that attention, this may put him to a state of depression. This playfulness needs a solid company all the time. 

Sugar Glider captivity (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Sugar gliders can glide in the range of 100 - 150 feet. This makes them superior to flying squirrels. Sugar glider body construction is unique in itself. That's why a sugar glider needs special care and attention.

Sugar gliders in America are known to have been imported from Indonesia, and not Australia. This 150 gm of pet owns a very soft fur which is gray in color. Its underbelly is white and a black stripe runs from the nose through the neck right across the back. Some species also have small black stripes running down the legs. 

Sugar glider face resembles to that of a bat. However, large difference lies here - sugar glider looks very beautiful and cute.

Sugar glider can create a variety of sounds - chirp, bark, crab, and what not. Never try to put the glider in a cage. It is a neat and clear formula for the death of this cute and loving pet. Try to build a place of comfort, more of a house than a cage. Your sugar glider will feel very comfortable there. 

Still, if you feel that a cage is needed, it should be large enough to offer adequate space to the animal. There should be a swing and a stick for the pet to have some playing around. Ensure that the cage has litter tray to keep it hygienic.

Sugar glider food must be balanced in terms of water, protein and calcium. Don't overfeed your sugar gliders otherwise they will be smelly. Also, give them glider food, and not the people food.

Caring Guide for HAMSTER Babies

One can’t just take his eyes off hamster pups, as these tiny cute little creatures will sure have your attention. Baby hamster are born without any fur and are closely attached to their mother. Though you may have the desire to hold them, bare in mind that there is nothing you can do within two weeks period after delivery.

Female syrian with her two babies, which are less than one week old. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

REMEMBER NOT TO TOUCH THE BABIES!! Your action might harm the babies and change its scent thus confuses the mother. She will think that they are not hers, abandon them and worst she might even eat the babies (it did happened to my hamsters). Not to cause any stress to the mother, avoid cleaning up the cage within this period. It is advisable to place the babies at the bottom of the cage as none of them had opened their eyes yet.

After this two weeks ‘vital’ period, you can hold them but only for a brief period as not to disturb or stress the mom or babies. You can also clean up the cage and place fresh beddings in most of it. Remove just the soiled parts in the nest area and put a good portion of the old bedding in it. Put the babies back in the nest after it is cleaned up followed by the mother.

Once the babies eyes are opened (which should occur on the 11-12 days, but some take less/more), they should figure out how the bottle works. In order for them to reach it easily, put it lower and in an area where they frequently go. If they haven’t figured out how to use the bottle and you are worried about them not drinking enough, you can give them pieces of cucumbers to prevent dehydration. Do not put water in a bowl to prevent them from falling in and drown or catch a cold.

At three weeks, you can separate the babies if you observe any fighting among them but if they seem immature, less developed and not quite independent enough to leave mom just yet, let them stay together until they are four weeks old. When they reach five weeks old, independent and have a healthy development, they can be placed in new homes and play in new surroundings and environment.

The Laws On FERRETS

Ferrets are considered to be exotic pets and it is only legal to own one in 48 states. This is because some people are concerned about their unpredictable behavior, which in some cases have led to unprovoked attacks against humans.

But in general, local authorities meaning the city or the county government can decide to follow these guidelines, make stricter rules or not agree with it. Two states that prohibit ferrets as pets are California and Hawaii.

Rat bolting with a muzzled ferret (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

So you know if you can own a ferret where you reside, you should get in touch with your wildlife and game department to obtain a current copy of the ordinances. In some places, you will be required to get a license.  Remember, that ignorance of the law is no excuse when you get caught.

In states that allow you to have ferrets as a pet, you have to comply with some general laws as well. First, your ferret must be vaccinated against rabies by six months of age using the USDA licensed rabies vaccine. A copy of the vaccination certificate must be filed with the clerk of the city or town within 30 days where the ferret resides. Lastly, rabies vaccination must be administered annually.

People who want to own a ferret may do so as long as it is neutered or spayed at the time this was purchased. It should have also been given inoculation against distemper and a copy of this should also be kept when this is asked for by the authorities.

For breeders, the person can only do so by obtaining a license from the local gaming and wildlife department. This has to be renewed annually and when the offspring are sold to the public, they also have to be neutered or spayed before the sale is made.

Schools or research institutions may acquire a ferret for scientific study provided breeding shall not be offered for sale or trade.

In the past, ferrets were used to assist hunters go after other wild animals. Another provision states that it is unlawful to do so through the use of a ferret.

If ever the owner does not want to keep the ferret anymore, the person is not allowed to release it into the wild. It is also prohibited to sell these to the pet shop. The best thing to do will be to turn this over to an animal shelter so this can be given a better home.

But on a lighter side, what should you do if ever you have a ferret? Owners should always give them the right food consisting of those rich in protein and low in fats to make them healthy. Water should be given using a bottle or a bowl so they do not get dehydrated.

The owners should also be sure that the ferret leaves in a safe environment. This can be done by letting the ferret stay in a cage and making the place ferret proof so they do not injure themselves or cause damage to your house.

Ferrets will sometimes get carried away and do some bad things. When this happens, you must never hit them and instead find a more constructive way of telling them that they should not do it again. Most importantly, love your ferret because when you do, they will also love you back.

FERRETS - A Friendly Playful Pet

Ferrets, often considered a rare pet to own. Most individuals choose dogs, cats, birds, or fish to complete their family, however a select few turn to the ferret for its social, playful, curious qualities. Ferrets love to play and explore not only with others and their owners, but also on their own. For this reason, you need to know a few things on how to take care of a ferret.

This is my ferret at 1 year. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

First, you will want to ferret proof your home before you introduce them as pets. They will crawl into walls, furniture, and anywhere they can get their little bodies. It is much like childproofing a home for a baby. You will want to make sure all of the dangers are eliminated when you allow them out of their cages for playtime.

Ferrets are also biters. The kits, baby ferrets, tend to bite more. You can eliminate the problem or tone it down with frequent handling. It is a sign of their behavior as mock fighting or sparring. The younger ferrets tend to bite more when they are teething and do not mean any harm. For this reason, you will want to handle the ferret or ferrets as often as possible to help reduce the biting behavior. Often those who do not take the time or patience to train their ferret end up leaving the animal in its cage and thus it has a shorter lifespan. Please make sure you are up to the task of training a ferret before brining one into your home. Trained properly they can be as great a pet as cats or dogs.

A ferret’s lifespan is usually six to ten years, however proper care and feeding can lead to a little longer life. Ferrets are carnivores so they require a high protein diet. Most owners decide to feed their ferret’s mice, rats, rabbit, and other raw meats such as chicken. Stores carried other types of ferret food that many owners choose over the live food. Carefully reading the label will tell you if it has the proper high protein diet. Most kitten food can be used for example because it is designed to be high protein and fat for growing cats.

While play is an important part of your ferret’s life so is sleep. Most ferrets spend fourteen to eighteen hours a day sleeping. Part of sleeping is to rejuvenate them from the active play life they have. They love to explore and to play with toys. Many pet stores have toys for ferrets, or you might have something around the house that your ferret will find appealing. 

The type of cage is important. Ferrets tend to be very smart so you will need a cage they can get plenty of air, but small enough bars they cannot break away. You will also want to clean the cage once or twice a week depending upon the number of ferrets you have, how dirty the cage looks. They are also burrows so some type of bedding is required.

Ferrets are little balls of fur that love to play and interact with humans and each other.  While there are some special concessions you need to make to have a ferret the results are worth it. Proper training as a kit will give you even more joy when they reach adulthood.

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