Let's talk about how to make a bunny happy! (Because you have to admit, when they're happy, we're happy too!)
Holland lop show bunny broken sable point (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
First things first. How do you know when your bunny is happy? Bunnies love to show it! If your bunny flops on her side and just lies there with her eyes closed, you'll know all is right with her world. She might scare you the first time she does this, and it's not uncommon for a new bunny owner to think something is wrong. Don't worry. Your bunny is just telling you she's happy. It's the happy flop.
Then there's the binky. If your bunny binkies, you know she's on top of the world. Binkies are crazy happy dances. Your bunny will hop in the air, twirl her head and spin around then maybe start running at top speed. Any bunny owner will attest to the great joy it brings to see their bun or buns do the binky dance.
Now, how to keep your bunny content? First and foremost is attending to her chewing needs. Bunnies absolutely love to chew. Phone books are popular with bunnies who love to shred the pages, so make sure you keep all of your old phone books (you might even ask your friends and family for theirs.) A bunny can go through a phone book pretty quickly.
Toilet paper and paper towel rolls are also safe and popular chew toys for bunnies. To make it even more fun, you can take a roll and stuff hay inside for them to dig out.
Boxes and paper bags are also a great source of entertainment for bunnies. You can fill the paper bag with hay, or just put an open paper bag on the floor for the bunnies to crawl into and dig. You'll be surprised at how long they can entertain themselves by playing with the bag.
Cardboard boxes are also an incredibly easy source of entertainment. Take a fairly large box and cut several doorways and windows into it. (Bunnies always prefer to have at least two entrances.) Your bunny will love to go in and dig, chew (making the doorways or windows bigger) and hide away. It's also a great place to put your bunny's haywhich she can eat as well as dig. You can also securely tape a bunch of cardboard boxes together, so the bunnies can run through them and play.
Use your imagination and creativity, and you'll find there are endless ways to turn everyday cardboard boxes into a playground for your bunnies.
One of the most important aspects of properly caring for your pet rabbit is providing him with a healthy, satisfying, and well-balanced diet. Fortunately, doing so is relatively easy, since there is general consensus about what is good for rabbits and a wide range of great food pellet options.
Rabbits can also eat many of the fruits and veggies that you probably have on your dinner table every night (see below for recommendations and portions).
Hay is an essential component of a rabbit's healthy diet. One reason why is that feeding a rabbit hay on a daily basis seems to reduce rabbits tendencies to pull out and consume or chew on their own hair, which leads to (sometimes very dangerous) hairballs.
Buy high-quality leafy grass hay, timothy hay or clover hay. Avoid alfalfa hay, as it can sometimes be problematic and has been shown to increase the risk of bladder stones.
FRESH Water
Like all creatures, rabbits need fresh water in order to survive. Change water daily or at least every two days. When you change the water, also wash the water bottle or dish thoroughly to get rid of bacteria.
You may want to use a water bottle that can hang on a cage, as this can reduce the messiness factor. If you prefer to use a bowl, make sure it is sturdy and heavy enough so that your rabbit won't overturn it.
Yogurt?
Although it may sound funny, rabbits can actually benefit from yogurt just the same way that humans do. Yogurt is proven to reduce the bad bacteria in the body, balancing out the good bacteria in the process. Many pet rabbits seem to like yogurt and accept it as a part of a balanced daily diet.
Chew Toys
As you will quickly learn as a new rabbit owner, bunnies love to bite and chew on things. This is actually essential for good dental health, but the trick is to give them good substances to chew on so they won't be tempted to eat up your furniture or other, more dangerous substances, like wires or electrical cords.
A dog's chew toy (on the smaller side) can be a great alternative, one which most rabbits seem to enjoy a great deal. Two more natural options are a large bone from a piece of boiled meat, with the bone marrow taken out, or some apple tree branches (the twigs are great roughage and help keep the bunny's intestines clean).
Rabbits tend to be quite sensitive when it comes to changes in their diet or feeding schedule. In fact, if there is a sudden change or interruption, a rabbit may lose his appetite or become ill.
Therefore, it's important to be consistant. Establish a feeding routine that is easy for you to stick to each and every day. Set your timer and fix the feeding schedule into your own everyday routine. Make sure you have enough rabbit food (whether hay, pellets, veggies, etc.) on hand so that you don't run out unexpectedly.
Feeding your rabbit a consistent, balanced and healthy diet is one of the best ways to ensure that your pet has a long and happy life as your prized companion.
Rabbits will be your perfect family pets because they are very adorable and loveable. Keeping rabbits as pets needs a couple of factors that will help you to take care of them. You have to prepare the space that you can use for exercise. And then it is the time for you to find comfort accommodation for your rabbits. Bedding and food are also important to make them happy living outside or indoors. Meanwhile, keeping rabbits as pets will take a lot of your time every day in order to take care of them. Unlike other smaller pets, you have to give more attention to rabbits because they sometimes can bite and scratch. For those of you who have children, these pets are not suitable for them. But rabbits will become nice friends for older children with the help from their parents to supervise their kids.
Miniature Lop from the United Kingdom Pet's Name :Si (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
How to Take Care of Indoor Rabbits
Rabbits are perfect family pets because they love gathering. You have to prepare a couple of important things such as a comfort space for sleep, and box and tray on keeping rabbits as pets. You will have to make sure that your rabbit can play in your garden because they have to achieve vitamin D from the natural sunlight. Rabbits can hang out well with a couple of other pets but you have to be careful with that and supervision is needed on keeping rabbits as pets.
How to Take Care Outdoor Rabbits
The first thing that you have to do in order to feed outdoor rabbits is to build a comfort place for your Rabbit. And it is important for you to apply clean straw. For those of you who have two rabbits with medium- sized you have to build a hutch with the measurements of 60cm x 60cm x 150 cm. But if you have a smaller hutch, you have to consider using a separate run in your garden or you have to do some exercise for your rabbits outside from their cage. You have to build the hutch that will allow shelter when winds come and shade during the summer time. You can build a grass run for the hutch or you can place it in your garden according to your needs. But once again, you have to make the nest area which is protected from the sunlight. You can empty the litter tray day by day and you can clean the hutch easier.
Feeding the Rabbits
Rabbits love fresh vegetables such as spinach, carrots, broccoli, watercress, apples and dandelion leaves. But you have to limit the consumption of the vegetables before it is overfed. There are a couple of foods that are not allowed to eat by your rabbits such as potatoes, grass clippings, and lettuce. Those foods will make your rabbits have a problem with their health. You can also try a diet schedule for your rabbits. 75% hay is good enough with the addition of fresh water. Vitamins and nutrients will be provided by a high quality of pellet.
Having a bunny break a leg can be traumatic for both you and your bunny. Treating can be very expensive. Heres an artcile describing what we decided to do for our bunny, and her excellent recovery.
Having a bunny break its leg can be a very traumatic experience for both the bunny and for you. We raise holland lops, and the tort color often does well on the show table. We have had several colored rabbits with big wins but wanted to add tort to our herd. We purchased a tort doe over the internet, and had her delivered at a show we were attending. That was the last time we agreed to buy a rabbit without first seeing it. The doe was very skittish. The day after picking up the rabbit, our oldest daughter took the doe from her cage, the doe freaked out and jumped from her arms, unto our carpeted floor.
My daughter called me over and said I think there’s something wrong with the rabbit. Her left hind leg was dangling as if she had no control over it. At first I thought she may have dislocated her hip, but upon feeling that area found no dislocation. My next thought was a broken leg. I felt her leg looking for a break as there was no visible sign of a break. Again I found nothing. I decided to check again for a dislocation, and that’s when I found a break on her femur, near the hip.
I began my search for a veterinarian that could possibly reset the leg. We finally found a vet about an hour away that would be able to do it. The cost would be from $500 - $1500 to set the leg, depending on the x-rays they would need to take, and if surgery would be necessary. The cost was out of the question, and we decided to look for answers elsewhere.
We received many suggestions, including putting the rabbit down, to trying to reset the leg myself. Since neither of seemed to be options that we wanted to take. We decided to treat the bunny ourselves without resetting the leg. This was a difficult choice as this beautiful doe would no longer be showable, but we would be able to use her as pet, or if all went well a brood doe.
The biggest concern in treating a broken leg is mobility. It is important to stabilize the leg as much as possible and keep the bunny from moving the leg. We decided she would have to stay in a carrying cage for the 6-8 weeks it would take for her leg to heal. We considered putting a towel next to her to further reduce her ability to move within the carrying cage, but decided against it for sanitary reasons.
Being immobilized for such a long period of time also gave us other health concerns. We constantly monitored her food, water and hay intake. We also checked to make sure there were ample droppings in the wood shavings.
We were prepared to give her pain medications in the beginning. However, she never showed any visible signs that she was in pain. Of course everyone wanted to hold and comfort her while she spent the 7 ½ weeks in the carrying cage, but she was simply off limits. Her leg needed to heal and the more she was moved around the longer it would have taken for the leg to heal.
Finally we took her out, and moved her into a regular sized cage after 7 ½ weeks. Surprisingly, she was in fairly good flesh condition. She was getting around well on the healed leg, despite the fact that the leg didn’t heal completely straight. It turns out slightly away from her body, as though it is twisted.
We have bred her to one of our bucks. She needed a little assistance in lifting for buck during mating, but did real well with it. Soon she’ll be having her first litter. Yes, the broken leg eliminated her chances of being shown. But it didn’t eliminate her value to our rabbitry.
It is important to understand rabbits behavior in order to have a successful relationship with one. Rabbits are often seen as adorable cuddly animals and many people especially children see them as an ideal pet often times with bad results. Rabbits make wonderful pets but unlike cats and dogs they have a unique form of communication primarily through body language and occasionally verbally. They can also understand some human words but primarily respond based on your tone of voice and your body language. Once you learn their language and also the basic care requirements you will be on your way to a pleasant experience as a rabbit owner.
It helps to put into perspective the rabbits instinctive position in the wild. Rabbits are prey animals therefore they are constantly on the lookout for danger and ready at anytime to take action to avoid predators. They live in social communities called Warrens and develop a hierarchy based on domination, as far as your rabbit is concerned you are also a rabbit and will have to establish your place in the Warren. Rabbits are also very territorial and will defend their territory against invaders.
To understand your pet rabbits behavior you will have to learn the many ways of communicating. Sometimes your rabbit's expression can mean very different things so you will have to do some interpretation based on your experience with your rabbit.
Sniffing - May be annoyed or just talking to you Grunts - Usually angry, watch out or you could get bit! Shrill scream - Hurt or dying Circling your feet - Can be part of a courtship dance or a means of getting attention. If other aggressive indicators are displayed, e.g. an erect tail and laid back ears, an attack is about to take place. Chewing - is a natural behavior. This keeps your rabbits teeth ground down and is instinctive to keep any obstruction (electrical cords, etc.) that are encroaching on the entrance to his burrow Spraying - Males that are not neutered will mark female rabbits in this manner as well as their territory. Females will also spray. Chinning - Their chin contains scent glands, so they rub their chin on items to indicate that they belong to them. Same as a cat rubbing its forehead on people and objects. False pregnancy - Usually just unspayed females may build a nest & pull hair from their chest & stomach to line the nest. They may even stop eating as rabbits do the day before they give birth. Bunny hop/dance - a jump straight up with a mid-air half turn and a twist usually executed in mid-run. A sign of pure joy & happiness! Begging - Rabbits are worse than dogs about begging, especially for sweets. Beware of giving the rabbit treats as overweight rabbits are not as healthy as trim rabbits. Boxing - rabbit stands on hind legs with their dukes up and throws punches. Stay back or your going to get it. Territory droppings - Droppings that are not in a pile, but are scattered, are signs that this territory belongs to the rabbit. This will often occur upon entering a new environment. If another rabbit lives in the same house this may always be a nuisance. Flop - rabbit literally throws his/herself onto their side which looks like they just keeled over. You have a happy at ease rabbit. Playing - Rabbits like to push or toss objects around. They may also race madly around the house, jump on and off of the couch and act like a kid that's had too much sugar. Burrowing - Tunneling behavior. Instinctive Rabbits are burrowing animals Bunching - Pushing, pulling, and biting bed linens, towels, pillows. Organizing to their liking Don't touch my stuff - Rabbits often are displeased when you rearrange their cage as you clean. They are creatures of habit and when they get things just right, they like them to remain that way. Stomping - He's frightened, mad or trying to tell you that there's danger (in his opinion).
Teeth Grinding - Indicates contentment, like a cats purr. Loud grinding can indicate pain.
One of the joys of having a rabbit as a pet is to fully experience all of the behaviors your rabbit will exhibit as a happy rabbit. In order for your rabbit to be happy it is important to know how to care for and keep you rabbit comfortable.
Rabbits are social animals and do best with a fellow rabbit companion along with lots of attention form you. Make sure you provide plenty of play time along with human interaction. If your rabbit is happy and comfortable you will find that they will seek you out to cuddle and often times will curl up on your chest to take a bunny nap but don't forget most rabbits don't like to be picked up. Most rabbits will get along just fine with other animals such as dogs, cats, and other small mammals be they need to be properly introduced. Most rabbit organizations can guide you through the steps. Be cautious if you have young children since rabbits can be easily squeezed to hard and injured.
If you are considering purchasing or adopting a pet rabbit, you should first give careful consideration to the demands and rewards of these very special pets. Countless homes have been brightened by the presence of a long-eared lodger, and conscientious rabbit keepers have many years of fulfilling interaction and bonding to look forward to.
At the same time, every year thousands of rabbits are given up to animal shelters- or worse, simply dumped in a field- by owners who did not take the time to properly educate themselves on the responsibilities of rabbit ownership. Here you can find the basic information needed to answer the question: Is a rabbit right for me?
Rabbits require daily and weekly care and maintenance, as well as a significant monetary investment. When well-cared for, rabbits typically live 9-12 years, so this is a long-term commitment. Just think- if you buy a pet rabbit for your 12 year-old, the rabbit will likely still be alive when that child moves out of the home. If you simply want a pet that will amuse a young child for a little while, consider a rat or other shorter-lived creature.
Beginning with financial costs, here is a brief summary of the requirements of rabbit ownership.
Initial outlay:
The rabbit itself. Your best bet is to adopt from an animal shelter. In addition to saving the animal's life, you'll be bypassing the morally dubious world of rabbit breeders and pet stores, which often show little to no competence or regard for the animals' well-being. And if that isn't enough of a reason to adopt, it is the cheaper option by far- apart from negating the price of the rabbit itself, the animal shelter should always spay or neuter the rabbit for you. This procedure usually costs $200 or more to have done by a private veterinarian, whereas the typical cost to adopt a rabbit (already spayed/neutered) is around $30.
A rabbit cage. These come in a wide range of prices depending on size and many other factors, but you should not skimp on this purchase, as it will likely need to last a long time. Even if you can comfortably house an immature rabbit in a smaller cage, remember that it will continue to grow up to the age of 6-8 months. A typical cage costs between $50 - $100.
A litter pan. Rabbits are some of the easiest pets to litter-train, and the alternative to a litter pan is constant cleaning of their cage. Average price is around $10.
A water bottle or dish. As much as you might like to save some money, don't bother putting a plastic cereal bowl or similar substitute into the rabbit cage. The rabbit is almost guaranteed to flip the bowl over, not only depriving the rabbit of water, but also soaking the bedding, which will become unsanitary. Use either a small pet water bottle, or a heavy crock. Typical cost is around $5.
Rabbit feeder. Again, you need either a heavy crock, or (preferably) a bin feeder that will attach to the side of the cage. Price is around $10.
Rabbit brush. Regular brushing of your rabbits fur is important to prevent potentially lethal hairballs from forming in its gut. Price is $8 - $10.
Rabbit nail trimmers. Unless your rabbit is going to have lots of time to dig and run over hard, rough surfaces, which is unlikely, you'll need to periodically trim its nails. Prices range from $5 to over $15.
Toys. Rabbits are lively, intelligent animals that need stimulation and exercise. There are a wide variety of household items that can be converted into rabbit toys with little effort, but there are also many commercial toys available. These usually run a couple bucks each.
Total initial outlay: $350 dollars or more, or $180 if adopted.
In addition to these start-up costs, there are various supplies and consumables that you will need to purchase on an ongoing basis.
Pellets. Mature rabbits should eat between 1/4 cup to 1 cup of dry pellets per day, depending on size. A 2.5 pound bag of food should last about a month, give or take. Prices vary, with the upper end around $5 per pound, so you shouldn't have to spend more than $15 a month on pellets.
Hay. Hay is the single most important element of your rabbit's nutrition, and should be freely available at all times. The amount your rabbit will eat will depend to a large degree on the size, breed, individual temperament, and other factors. Hay is fairly cheap, so even if you have a rabbit with a large appetite, you shouldn't need to spend more than $15 a month or so.
Fresh fruits and vegetables. A small amount of fresh plant matter should be part of each rabbit's daily diet. For mature rabbits, plan on feeding at least two cups daily of vegetables, such as beet tops, dandelion greens, collard greens, carrot tops, and similar leafy greens. No more than 2 ounces of fruit can also be included, avoiding especially sugary fruits such as grapes. Another $15 per month, or so.
Bedding/litter. Your rabbit should have some kind of soft material to bed down in, as well as something absorbent for its litterbox. There are free alternatives available, such as shredded newspaper, but for a variety of reasons commercial bedding and litter is preferable. About $5 per month.
Annual check-up. Your rabbit should be taken to a vet who specializes in exotic pets every year to safeguard against health problems that might not be immediately apparent. The price will vary greatly depending on the vet, but about $45 is a good ballpark figure.
Total cost per year: Approximately $480.
Starting to rethink rabbit ownership yet? It is important that you be prepared for these non-optional costs. Everything listed above is an absolute necessity for a healthy pet rabbit, and unless you are able to harvest your own hay or construct your own cage, you won't be able to cut any of these costs. If you don't feel that you can comfortably afford to shell out four or five hundred dollars a year on care and maintenance, a rabbit may not be the pet for you.
In addition to the financial outlay, rabbit care will require an investment of time. Here is a breakdown of the tasks regularly associated with rabbit ownership.
Daily tasks:
Change food and water and clean bowls. Any food pellets that remain uneaten from the previous day should be disposed of and replaced, and the same applies to water. Water or food that is allowed to sit and spoil or stagnate will become a vector for disease. Food bowl and water bowl/bottle should also be cleaned daily. Clean with white vinegar or mild soap, and rinse thoroughly with hot water. 10 minutes or less.
Check the litterbox. Depending on how much litter you place in the litterbox at a time, you will need to change it more or less frequently. Once a week is typical, but you'll want to check it daily to make sure it isn't heavily soiled, is not drawing flies, and that there are no telltale signs of health problems evident in the rabbit's waste, such as misformed cecotrophes. 1 minute.
Remove any bedding or hay that has become wet or soiled. If wet materials are allowed to degrade in the cage, they will quickly become sources of disease and discomfort for your rabbit. 1-2 minutes.
Most importantly: Spend time with your rabbit! Just as much as any dog, and more so than most cats, rabbits are social, communicative animals that require daily interaction for their mental and physical health.
While your rabbit should have at least a few hours per day to roam freely, you'll want to spend an hour or so of that time interacting with it. Try rolling a ball or cardboard tube with it, or tossing a sisal rope toy to it- some rabbits are devoted "catch" players! Apart from the entertainment and satisfaction you and your rabbits will derive from playtime, this is a good opportunity to observe your rabbit for any signs of health problems. 1 hour or more.
Total time per day: About 1 ¼ hours.
Weekly tasks:
Change litterbox. Remove used litter and replace. 1 minute.
Thorough cage cleaning. This should be done during the rabbits normal "playtime", when it is out of the cage. Remove all bedding, hay, litterbox, etc. You can use either white vinegar or diluted bleach to thoroughly wipe down all surfaces, especially areas where the rabbit has urinated. Rinse thoroughly with hot water and allow to dry before replacing. 1 hour or less.
Groom rabbit. Rabbits require two kinds of regular grooming: brushing and nail trimming. The importance of regularly brushing your rabbit cannot be overstated, as it will prevent the rabbit from forming hairballs in its gut that may cause a fatal blockage. Use a rabbit petting brush or gentle slicker brush- rabbits have extremely sensitive skin. This is a good way to promote bonding between you and your rabbit, as mutual grooming is an important social activity for rabbits in the wild.
Nail trimming should be done every week or two, but will be easier if done more frequently. Use nail clippers made for small pets. Remember never to restrain a struggling rabbit, as their fragile spines and legs may break. For more detailed instructions, look for one of the many articles available on trimming your rabbit's nails. 1 hour total.
Total time per week: 1-2 hours.
These guidelines should give you a good idea of how much time you'll need to devote to caring for your rabbit. Although you might be able to get away with cutting a few corners, this is highly inadvisable. Your rabbit's health and happiness will suffer, not to mention that doing so will defeat the point of owning a rabbit. If any of these requirements strike you as overly burdensome, you may want to reconsider purchasing a rabbit. Otherwise, you can look forward to years of wonder and joy as you watch your furry companion grow, learn, and develop a bond with you that few other pets can match. We wish you the best in your adventures in rabbitry!
By Andrew Massaro
When it comes to the health and happiness of your pet rabbit, choosing a quality living environment should be on the top of your list. Whether you choose quality Rabbit Cages or opt for larger Rabbit Hutches, the quality of the materials and the construction of the dwelling will determine how well it works for your particular furry friend.
Article Source: EzineArticles
Pets are
the most loyal and loving companions one can have. Many people are now seeing
the fun and companionship that comes with owning a pet.
Usually, people own puppies, kittens, and birds. The more bizarre choices
include reptiles, spiders, and pigs. Some of you may not have the inclination
to these animals and would like a fluffy and cute bunny instead but you’re
wondering whether you can actually keep them inside your house without any
problems.
Here are
some good reminders and pointers you would want to consider if you plan on
owning an indoor rabbit:
Nature of
Rabbits
Rabbits are
intelligent and social animals capable of human companionship. They are often
cautious and timid in nature. In their natural habitat, they live in groups;
usually within burrows. Rabbits are most active in dawn and dusk and live on
the average of 9-12 years. They can hardly stay still and are very active. They
chew on almost anything to be preoccupied. Furthermore, a rabbit has fragile
bones in the back and needs proper support when handling. The owner needs to
know the proper handling methods if he/she plans to take care of one. Often,
rabbits can display aggression if threatened. They bite but usually not with
enough force to inflict wounds. These can be corrected by behavioural tools and
winning the creature’s trust. They also need regular physical and mental
exercise to stay healthy.
Housing
Your Rabbit
Rabbits can
either be kept in the backyard or indoors. Some practice putting out the rabbit
outside during the day in good weather to roam free and placed indoors for the
night. This will give the rabbit daylight and space to exercise. However, they
may fall prey to stray animals and other predators that can wander your yard.
Some owners prefer to keep their rabbits indoor to roam free. This is not
achieved without proper training and precautions.
Rabbits often chew on
anything they can and you need to keep chords away from sight or reach of the
animal to avoid electrocution. If you want to minimize them from chewing on
your furniture then it is wise to give them toys to play with and a lot of
attention to keep them preoccupied. If you do not have the time to spare in
training the animals, then you might want to keep them in a cage. There are a
lot of types you can choose from depending on your preference and needs.
Custom Enclosures – These are fenced or boxed areas where a bunny
can freely roam. You can build these with wood, metal, or repurposed
furniture. However, never use chicken wires since they can chew on them
and get hurt.
Cages – design the cage according to your living arrangements but be
sure it’s not too small. Do not keep your bunny locked up in the cage the
whole day and bring them out to exercise for at least two hours. Some
prefer cages with wire bottoms to facilitate cleaning but be sure that you
place a piece of wood or platform where the bunny can lie or stand on to
avoid damaging its paws.
When most people think about keeping rabbits or dwarf bunnies they think of a hutch, and if the bunnies are lucky, some sort of enclosure stuck on the front. Fortunately for bunnies, as the pet market increases in size, more types of bunny homes are being sold. Due to the size of their display area most pet shops still sell the traditional wooden rectangle with an enclosed area down one end for sleeping, but if you shop around, particularly online you can find a whole world of homes for your dwarf rabbits.
Young Netherland Dwarf rabbit (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
The first rule of buying a home for your dwarf bunnies is that bigger is always better, especially if you want happy, healthy and loving bunnies. Rabbits are extremely intelligent and need more from their home environment than somewhere to stretch and eat grass. Ideally you will be able to offer your dwarf bunny time out of its enclosure to run, interact with you, and jump around as all happy bunnies love to. Even so, it is important for you to provide a safe and interesting enclosure for your dwarf rabbits while they are confined.
Two Story Hutch Accommodation
Many of the new hutches on the market have a second floor, which your dwarf bunnies can access by a ramp. These are a wonderful improvement on the old style single level hutches. Just like us, rabbits enjoy space and not having to eat, sleep and use the toilet in the same area. Having an upper floor also gives your bunny a different and interesting view on the world around it. Of the six dwarf bunnies I have known only one didn't like climbing up things and enjoying its new vantage point.
A Bunny Run With a View
Adding a run area to your hutch is always a must. Very few rabbit runs on the market are big enough to give your bunnies room to freely run and jump, but what they do offer goes beyond that. Bunnies need to see what is going on in the world around and feel part of it. You may know your bunny is safe in its enclosure, but unless it can see, it doesn't. Bunnies feel a lot happier and safer if they can see what is going on around them and a run will give this to them. A run will also give your bunny an opportunity to nibble fresh grass, get lots of fresh air and a feeling of being in a natural environment.
Thinking Out of the Bunny Box
When looking for an outdoor enclosure for your dwarf rabbits you can also look at products for other animals. We have an enclosure that is actually designed as a chicken coop, but is ideal for our dwarf bunnies. It is waist height and simply consists of a run area, a nesting box that is up off the floor and importantly a bunny door. The door lets our rabbits out to run about in our garden. Depending on your space and budget there are wooden pens designed for cats or dogs that are suitable and some people even use sheds.
The height of your bunny run is an important factor you should consider. Looking at the height of your dwarf rabbits, and even its height when stretching up, is not a height guide for a rabbit run. Bunnies have exceptional eye sight and a low roof will make them feel enclosed, even if their run covers a wide floor area. Sufficient height will let your bunnies express their happiness by jumping.
Time Out for Running Free
When you choose an enclosure, think about how much time you can spend with your bunnies and if your garden is suitable to let your rabbits run free. Bunnies do not need, or want, to spend all the day running around, but daily exercise is important, and they do need to feel in touch with their surroundings and be stimulated by them. Bunnies are not toys that can be kept in a box and taken out when you want to play with them.
You can also keep your bunnies as house rabbits, but that is anther story all together.
By Lindsay Pollard
Lindsay Pollard is the author of Dwarf Bunnies - Hints and Tips Lindsay's site at [http://www.dwarfbunnies.org]
Article Source: EzineArticles
Most rabbit lovers insist the only way to properly house a rabbit is indoors because the outdoors, though not impossible (as we'll discuss) poses way too many hazards.
Rabbits are extremely social animals, and just like humans, they can become depressed if they don't get enough attention. Having an indoor bunny is the most popular and safest way to care for a rabbit, and it's the best way to make your bunny a real part of your family.
If you're going to keep your bunny indoors, we'll have to talk about bunny proofing. Bunnies love to chew, and they're particularly fond of phone cords, computer wires and Internet cables. (Keep the remote and phone out of bunny's reach too.) It's dangerous for your bunny to chew live wires.
There's a simple fix to protect your bunny (and the wires in your house). You can purchase plastic tubing from Home Depot or Lowe's. You can also get spiral cable wrap from Radio Shack. Or, you can simply make sure all wires are out of reach.
Bunnies also love to chew the baseboard and the edges of doorways. You can try spraying bitter applewhich you can buy at any pet storeon the enticing areas, but most bunnies aren't really bothered by the taste. (Kind of like how we might feel if someone sprayed bittle apple on a hot fudge sunday! Annoying, but not a stopper!)
Ivory Soap is usually more effective. Simply take a bar and rub it along the areas your bunny likes to chew. (Only Ivory Soap though is safe enough for your bunny - others have dangerous chemicals which will irritate Thumper's system.) Reapply after a few weeks (it wears out).
You might also want to get the plastic protectors that cover baseboard and corners purchase these at any home improvement store.
Bunnies also love to chew wood, so you might find they want to gnaw at your table legs, chairs and bookshelves. You can use Ivory on these as well. (Do you think the makers of Ivory had this in mind when they went into production?)
Many bunnies will also love chewing on your rugs. If your bunny is going to have free run of the house, you really don't have many options to avoid this. However, this is by no means a reason not to allow your bunny run time or to allow your bunny free range. The key to preventing bunny destruction is to make sure your bunny has plenty of toys and entertainment. The more they have to do, the less destructive they will be. (You can also supervise them around the rugs and make a loud noise when they go to chew them).
Well... there's more!
Just like with children, you'll need to cover all of your unused electrical outlets. And bunnies love to hide under beds and couches, then dig their way into the underside of that furniture, curl up and go to sleep. At first, you might think it's cute and a nice little hideaway for bunny. But, the bad news is when bunnies snuggle away in the underside; they also tend to pee and poop.
Simply put a board around the base of your bed and couches. (Some people recommend a flat cardboard box, but bunnies eventually chew their way through).
Finally, you need to keep your plants out of reach of the bunnies since the vast majority of them are poisonous to bunnies if eaten. And be careful if you hang your plants from the ceiling. If the leaves fall, you'll need to make sure they are well out-of-reach of the bunny. (If your bunny eats a poisonous plant, call the ASPCA's National Animal Control Poison Agency at 1-888-426-4435).
How to find the healthiest, happy and placid bunny for your family
This is the question I am asked about most so I thought that I would share this procedure or method that I have devised so that people can make an informed decision on finding a healthy happy bunny and of finding the right breeder to purchase their bunny from.
I do think that a good breeder is still the best place to purchase your bunny because you can see first hand the bunny's parents and the breeders other stock and have all your questions answered whereas if you buy your bunny from a pet store where a good percentage of the pet shop staff knows nothing about rabbits or their care are unable to fill in the blanks for you.
So, now for the procedure to follow in finding a healthy and happy bunny: - make a list of several breeders in your area and ring the first breeder on your list and ask if you can come visit them and see the bunnies that they have for sale. You are going to test for smell, sound and handling.
When the breeder takes you down to their rabbit shed check for smell. If you get bowled over by the stench of urine from dirty un-cleaned cages this is not the place to find a happy healthy bunny so make a polite excuse and leave and go check out the next breeder.
If the breeder passes the smell test enter the shed and check out the bunnies whilst keeping your ears tuned for the sound of sneezing or coughing. If you hear a lot of sneezing or coughing once again make a polite excuse and leave and go check out the next breeder on your list.
If the breeder passes the smell and sound test you need to observe how the breeder handles their bunnies, and how the bunny reacts when the breeder opens their cage. If the breeder grabs the bunny by the scruff of the neck and/or the bunny lunges at the breeder, once again make a polite excuse and leave.
When you find a breeder who passes the smell, sound and handling of their bunnies test, you have found a person who looks after their bunnies. Now you can start handling the bunnies and see how placid the bunny is. Don't forget to handle the parents as well. A lot of breeders handle their bunnies on a daily basis and this ensures that most bunnies from this breeder will be gentle and placid.
In conclusion when you go to a breeder's shed it should be neat and tidy the bunny's water bottle should be filled with clean water with no green algae or other debris, the bunny cages should be clean and not stink of urine and faeces. The bunnies should look healthy and calm without any coughing or sneezing and the breeder should handle their bunnies gently but firmly and the bunny should be picked up as you would a small child, by placing their hands on either side of it. The breeder should be able to answer any questions that you may have in relation to bunnies, demonstrate how to hold them, and give you full care instructions. They breeder should also demonstrate how to clip your bunny's nails, carry out a health check and encourage you to ring them if you have any problems or further enquiries.
Don't forget to ask heaps of questions regarding the care and management of bunnies. A breeder who cares enough about their stock are more that willing to answer any enquiries that you may have.
I personally encourage people to check that the breeder only breeds for the love of the hobby and not breed for purely monitory gain. I personally dislike breeders who churn out bunnies just for profit without thinking of the bunny's welfare. By not purchasing any bunnies from this type of breeder you are sending them a clear message that you don't like their actions.
Thinking about getting a pet? There’s one furry companion you probably haven’t considered, but should. It’s smart, uses a litter box, can learn to come and walk on a leash, is at home anywhere from a big house with yard to a college dorm room, and it probably won’t make you sneeze. What’s this terrific alternative to a dog, cat and hamster? A rabbit.
Rabbits are funny and charming – and they need you as much as you need them. Like dogs and cats, rabbits are abandoned every day. The United States Humane Society reports that 3 million to 4 million -- yes, million -- rabbits are euthanized in shelters each year. By adopting a bunny, you not only get a terrific companion, you save a life.
They’re cute. Watching them eat a carrot or just wash their big ears will put a smile on anyone's face.
Far fewer people have allergies to rabbits than other furry pets, and you can find some breeds that barely shed.
They’re clean, as animals go. Once they’ve learned to use a litter box, they can roam around your house like any other pet. Plus, their droppings are virtually odor-free and are considered cold compost, meaning you can toss them directly into the garden with great results.
They are social animals. They’re happiest and healthiest when they have another rabbit to play with. They also like to snuggle with people, so you can plan to spend time holding, petting and playing with them each day.
There are more than 40 different types of rabbits to choose from. (For more information on them, go to http://www.arba.net/photo.htm).
Who should get a rabbit?
Bunnies are especially good pets for people who live in apartments because they’re quiet, don’t need to be walked and can be litter trained. Most apartments and dormitories allow rabbits because they are considered "caged" pets.
Rabbits -- especially if they have another bunny for company -- are ideal for people who work long hours or take weekend trips. They do fine for a day if you leave plenty of timothy hay, rabbit feed, veggies and water.
They are great starter pets for school-age children (the recommended starting age is 8, but it depends on your child). Just be sure the bunnies aren’t too big for your kids to handle properly. And since rabbits live about 10 years, be sure you’re prepared to care for them, like you would dogs or cats, if your children don’t. The organization where you get your rabbits can help you find the best match.
If you are unsure about a rabbit as a pet, seek out a local rescue organization and become a foster. Most rescues will pay for all supplies and food -- and all pay for veterinary care -- until a permanent home is found. This is a wonderful way to save some bunnies’ lives, decide if you’re a rabbit person and find the perfect one for you.
How do you choose?
Rabbits’ personalities change greatly when they go into adolescence. Some love toys, others like to romp in the tall grass. Getting a rabbit that’s at least 6 months old will help guarantee that the bunny you adopt will act the same way a year from now. If you adopt from a rescue organization, the foster parent can give you information on the bunny's likes, fears and quirks.
If you’ve got a dog, consider up front how it will respond to a new pet in your home. Many dogs learn to get along with rabbits; some befriend them; some see them as prey. If a rabbit will be safe in your home, choose one that’s the right size to interact with your other pets.
Rabbits have a variety of personalities. Like cats, some rabbits will play hard to get; some will sit on your lap and let you pet them as long as you like. Find a bunny that suits your style.
Reputable rabbit rescue organizations will insist that your rabbits be spayed or neutered, for their health and your happiness. Most rescues factor that into the adoption fee.
How do you care for bunnies?
Rabbits need attention, fresh water and food (timothy hay, rabbit chow and vegetables) every day.
Their litter boxes must be changed at least weekly.
Rabbits need a cozy space to call home, but they don’t require much stuff. An extra-large wire dog crate, water bottle, heavy food bowl, litter box with recycled paper litter, a box with shredded paper to dig in, and a few hard infant or cat toys will keep them happy.
To keep your bunnies healthy in a wire-bottom cage, put old carpet scraps on the bottom. Without that protection, they’ll develop painful and debilitating arthritis in their toes. While you’re at it, add a 12- by 12-inch ceramic tile for him to lie on to cool off. You can often get these for free from a local flooring store.
Unlike dogs and cats, rabbits take a few weeks to warm up to new people and surroundings. At first they will hop a few feet out of and then back into their cage, then they’ll gradually start to explore. They’ll relax once they become comfortable with their environment. Although they love to hop around the house, rabbits need a safe place -- a covered box or small covered doggie bed – where they can go when they need time alone.
Bunnies don’t see in color, so they often mistake wires for weeds and chew on them. You can easily bunny-proof your home by tacking wires up out of their reach.
House rabbits have difficulty cooling off above 85 degrees and staying warm below 40 degrees, so you’ll need to use caution when you take them outside in the summer or winter.
My bunny’s home. Now what?
Enjoy! You won’t be able to resist:
-- Watching carrot juice drip from your baby bunny’s chin after an especially good carrot.
-- The first time bunny grooms you (to show you are his).
-- The times when she jumps with glee and spins around in mid-air.
-- Watching bun sleep peacefully on his back, legs straight up in the air
To learn more about rabbit habits, adoptions or fostering opportunities, visit:
House Rabbit Society: http://www.rabbit.org/
PetFinder: http://www.petfinder.com
Rabbit Haven's list of state rescue organizations: http://www.rabbithaven.org/BunnyLinks/Shelters_Rescues/StateListings.htm
The Humane Society of the United States: http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/rabbit_horse_and_other_pet_care/how_to_care_for_rabbits.html
Do you ever watch a cartoon movie where there is some kind of a cute little creature which has a huge thick fur covering most of their body except its mouth and nose? If you think such animals only live in a fantasy world, you are dead wrong. There actually is an animal which resembling those cartoon characters in real life. If you still feeling a little bit skeptical then I encourage you to type in Google with a keyword 'English Angora rabbit' and you will know what I am talking about. And the best thing about it is instead of watching them moving and jumping around in a movie screen, you can now have an opportunity to keep them as a pet.
Angora rabbit is one of the oldest types of domestic rabbits. They were originally coming from Ankara (it was historically known as Angora), Turkey. There are also other animals originated from this place such as Angora cat and Angora goat. English Angora rabbit is the smallest types of Angora rabbit breed according to ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association). This breed is more common as a pet because it has a facial structure which closely similar to that of a puppy dog or teddy bear look. The reason of why this animal is so unfamiliar to most of us before is perhaps because there are not many TV programs broadcasting information about them.
A general observation about Angora rabbit is they are an active, playful and a very social animal. They also happen to have lots of personality. They enjoy the attention of their owners, as well as the companionship of other rabbits, and quite often will also nap with a docile mannered cat. They enjoy having toys, for example a plastic ball, a pine cone, a piece of soft wood, a stuffed sock, or an old glove.
A little warning for those who are interested on having Angora rabbit as a pet is if you don't want or don't have enough time to groom and clean it for at least once a week then you probably want to reconsider about your decision. Because Angora rabbit requires quite a heavy maintenance (especially when it comes to grooming and combing its fur) compared to your usual pets such as cats and dogs. Frequent maintenance of Angora rabbit is necessary because they often swallow their own fur when they try to clean themselves up. If this keeps happening in a prolonged period, it will create a hazard for them because their bodies cannot digest a fur. The fur will then clogged up and block their metabolic system and it is very possible that it leads to death.
Rabbits make quite the great pets. They're vivacious, cuddly, and quiet
for an animal that's known for their energy. With that said, it is tough asking
pet stores what breeds they're selling, because many of their owners don't know
all that much about the rabbits themselves. If you want a rabbit, they'll just
give you one. They're not like dogs where every last breed is classified.
Chocolate-colored male Himalayan Rabbit (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Breeds of Rabbit and Where to Buy Them
You should consult with an expert, like someone with a Department of
Agriculture license, in order to classify and give you the different rabbit
breeds available out there. There are quite a lot of stores that don't care
about the rules in taking care of a rabbit, even if they're simple rules like
informing that a bunny lives for about a decade or more. It's important to know
as much as possible about breeds, because some rabbits become bigger than other
rabbits despite having virtually the same look as babies at first glance.
Therefore, knowing breeds isn't simply for the sake of picking a bunny of a
certain color.
It's best to buy rabbits from breeders instead of pet stores because the
latter have more respect and take more care in dealing with these silent pets.
They're living beings that should be taken care as carefully as possible. These
breeder folk know all there is to know about their bunnies, from their medical
history to their health. There are, for example, the lop breeds, and the
mini-lop happens to be the second most common breed sold by breeders or pet
stores. They can grow to about six pounds.
More Information about Bunny Breeds and Choosing a Rabbit
For their weight, rabbits can be quite large. They can grow to about the
size of a small cat. As for the most common breeds sold in stores and by
breeders, they're the straight-ear, "Bugs Bunny" variety of rabbits.
They're an American breed and they're mostly used as meat rabbits that are
culled and sold to pet shops. Unlike the lop-eared bunnies, these bunnies can
grow all the way upwards from 10 to 12 pounds, which is heavier than the
heaviest Shih Tzu. At any rate, those are just the general breeds. The more
specific types of rabbits will not only vary in size and ear type, but also in
fur, color, and body type.
Some hares have lean bodies, while others are more rounded and soft like
those stuffed toys. A rabbit can even go as low as two pounds to upwards of 20
pounds in weight, although the established average is nine pounds. The best
rabbit breeds, like the best dog breeds, have striking appearances, so they're
commonly displayed in pet stores so that they could reel in buyers through
their good looks. Also, like canines, the lupus species also have mixed breeds
available that have offbeat charm of their own. Just as a mutt with no distinct
parentage can appeal to people, so too can mixed breeds with characteristics
deemed by breeders as faults.
