As with humans, prevention is the key for your chinchilla to staying healthy and not getting sick. Even though precautions are taken, sometimes steps are still missed. It is crucial that your pet's cage have fresh food and water daily. Their cage should always be kept clean and their food should not contain fungus or insects. Any violations of these can cause adverse effects for your pet. Keep in mind your chinchilla has a sensitive digestive system. It cannot easily get rid of bad food from their system. This means they could get sick.
Photo of a standard gray chinchilla. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Please find below some health problems that could affect your pet and what you can do:
Constipation:
You will know that your pet is constipated if their bowels are dry, small, strangely shaped and have a foul odor. Provide them with more fresh water and hay. Also, you can give them 1 - 2 raisins.
Bloating:
Your pet will look like a balloon and their bowels will contain mucous. Their bowels are also holey and sticky. Give your chinchilla a longer time to exercise and give them food culture.
Diarrhea:
Your pet's bowels will stick and look like a grape. The diarrhea in your pet could be caused by hay that is moldy or algae that has grown in their water. Check the hay for mold and check the water for algae. It is imperative that their water is changed out everyday and that it's fresh. Also check to see if their diarrhea is caused by an environmental change.
Seizures and Cramping:
If your pet does not move or starts to tremble, this may be a sign of a seizure. This can be caused by stress, injury to the head or lack of calcium. You will know if your pet lacks calcium if their teeth turn white. This can happen moreso with the female chinchilla. Don't allow your pet to injure themselves. They should be kept warm. Since this is a more serious issue, see a veterinarian immediately.
In addition to the above, you should see a veterinarian immediately if your pet is experiencing any of the following:
Severe diarrhea or constipation, injury of the eye from a sharp object, pneumonia, weight loss, ingesting poison, or broken bones anywhere on their body. Any of these will require additional medical care from a specialized veterinarian.
You hope that you don't have to experience any of this with your pet chinchilla. There are things you can do to make sure your pet stays healthy and not fall into any health dangers.
Listed below are some of the tips:
- Keep their cage cleaned on a regular basis.
- Don't change their food too often; they have a sensitive digestive system.
- Don't move them around a lot; chinchillas can't withstand changes too well, especially sudden ones. If you do have to move them, try to do it gradually.
- Make sure their roughage food is fresh.
- Make sure their water is fresh and constantly changed out.
- Their food should be administered in small portions.
- Since chinchillas are night owls, they should rest during the day.
Follow these tips and your chinchilla will live a long and happy life.
Exercise wheel for a small rodent (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
With a cage for your chinchilla, they should also be some chew toys, a television and a wheel for exercise. This way they'll have plenty of things to do while they're in the cage. In order for the wheel to fit in properly, you should measure the door of the cage. Even though your pet will still get their outside exercise, a cage is strongly recommended for exercise inside.
Sometimes, your pet chinchilla may not adapt to the wheel right away. Don't fret--sometimes it may take them a while to get acclimated, especially since it's new to them. Older chinchillas don't adapt to change very well and it may take them longer to get used to it. It may take them weeks, or even months to get acclimated to the device. When they do, they usually like it and take to the wheel well, especially when they realize that it's benefiting them. Anything that benefits them is good, and they try to keep a positive demeanor.
Another aspect of having a wheel in your pet's cage is safety. You have to make sure that they are able to exercise on a running surface. The surface should be solid or made from mesh. The measurements should be no more than 1/2" X 1/2". Anything more than that can result in the chinchilla having leg, foot or toe injuries. Their lower extremities are very delicate and can result in amputation if not attended to properly.
As with chew toys, the wheels should not be made of plastic. Plastic can harm your pet by causing issues with their intestinal area. The pet can chew and ingest the plastic pieces which can cause this. If you use a wheel with spokes, you are asking for trouble. Not only can your pet chinchilla face injury to their arms or legs, the risk of having their limbs amputated increases.
Even your pet can sense when there's danger with these type of wheels. When that happens, they're reluctant to exercise on them. These type of wheels are not recommended to be installed in their cages. If you do use them, you are not looking out for your pet's best interests. Another type of wheel, called a safe wheel, has screws in the inside center. They seem to have more fun on this type of wheel because of the decreased danger.
The recommended measurement for a wheel is 12", even though there is some debate about that. Most people seem to do ok with that size wheel. Pet stores normally sell the wheels with the spokes, which as stated in the previous paragraph is dangerous for chinchillas. There have been reports that the wheel may cause your pet's spine to curve, because there's only so much room; of course, that's probably remain to be seen.
If you find abnormal issues with your pet after getting on the wheel, you should stop until your find out what's going on. If you are unsure about what type of wheel to purchase, contact your local pet store or consult with your local veterinarian.
At our Practice we see a large number of small mammals with symptoms of dental disease both as first opinion cases and as referrals from other practices. This article deals specifically with dental disease in Chinchillas (Chinchilla Langier). Degus (Octodon degus) and Guinea Pigs (Cavia porcellus).
The most common presentations include weight loss, anorexia, cachexia (chronic wasting), excess salivation (slobbers), small faeces or absence of faeces. An ocular (eye) discharge or a discharge from the nose may also be evident. The incisions (front teeth) are commonly overgrown and there may be a history of repeated burring or clipping of these teeth as an attempted treatment for the anorexia. On careful palpation the jaw of these presenting animals may be irregular and painful. Sometimes the animal will grind its teeth, a sign of pain in these species. There is often a poor dietary history which will be addressed later.
One of the most important points to stress is that a detailed oral examination of a conscious small mammal is nigh on impossible. This is especially true of the species dealt with in this article. Guinea pigs often have food in their mouths at the time of examination (in fact if they don't it is a worrying sign), chins and degus resent oral examination vigorously. Anaesthesia is often required to thoroughly examine the oral cavity and this allows the clinician to perform skull radiography, arguably the most informative diagnostic tool in small mammal dentistry. This is because most dental disease processes in exotic small mammals are concerned with the tooth "roots" which are encased in bone and therefore not visible on a dental examination. In fact, many animals with severe dental disease have mouths that look essentially normal on casual examination of the anaesthetised patient.
Dental Anatomy
Guinea pigs, chinchillas and degus have the dental formula of 2 x I 1/1 C 0/0
P 1/1 M 3/3 (where I = incisors, C = canines, P = premolars and M = molars). The premolars and molars act as a functional unit to grind food and the incisors are used for prehension and cutting of fibrous foodstuffs. All teeth grow continuously. There is no true anatomical root. The lower (mandibular) cheek teeth are arched toward the tongue and overgrowth can lead to tongue entrapment. The upper (maxillary) cheek teeth are angled outward (laterally). Angulation of the teeth provides an effective surface for grinding thin fibrous food material and when eating this high silicate foodstuff, rapid tooth wear occurs and new growing tooth replaces the wear caused by grinding. In the wild these animals spend a long time eating low quality grasses which are high in silicates (the precursors of glass). This continual grinding prevents overgrowth of the teeth.
Diet and dental disease
Captive bred specimens are larger than their wild counterparts and it is established that a proportion of cases of dental disease can be attributed to genetic causes. However, by far the most cases of dental disease in Guinea pigs, chinchillas and degus results wholly or in large part from inappropriate diets. Specifically a lack of dietary fibre is implicated. Most modern "complete" diets are complete in that they contain adequate protein, carbohydrates, fats and trace elements. However, their sole use leads not only to problems with obesity but also does not allow these animals to spend the large amount of time chewing and wearing their molar teeth that they require to grind down their continually growing back teeth. This can lead to spur formation and entrapment of the tongue by the diagonally growing lower molars. This can be picked up and treated by a detailed examination of the mouth. All the time however, a more sinister development is occurring which is all together more difficult to treat.
If less time is spent chewing, the exposed parts of the teeth elongate. This puts pressure on the teeth which slows eruption, but tooth growth continues at a slow rate. Essentially what happens next is that the cheek teeth grow backwards, invading the structures of the skull. The teeth can grow into the nasal sinuses causing respiratory infections or towards the eyes causing weepiness. The lower teeth invade the jawbone causing bony changes and sometimes abscess formation (common in rabbits). The net result of this growth is that the mouth is progressively forced open. The front teeth elongate as they do not meet any more and becomes progressively more difficult for these animals to eat (try swallowing with your mouth open!). This leads to the condition known as slobbers where saliva spills onto the skin often causing a fetid smell. Clients often notice this and the fact that the incisors are growing and present these animals for incisor trimming. In fact the incisors are growing because they are not meeting as a result of the mouth being forced open by the overgrown back teeth. Skull radiography is the only way to accurately quantify if this has occurred and to what extent. All too often, animals are referred to this practice with histories of repeated anaesthetics with no radiography performed.
Treatment
To sum up, difficult at best. Most presented cases have advanced disease. Aggressive burring of the cheek teeth may be attempted. If abscesses have formed, these need specific treatment. Eye infections require antibiotics. Otherwise force-feeding and anti-inflammatory drugs are required. Quality of life needs to be assessed on a regular basis and weight monitoring with faecal output are useful indicators of appetite. The liquid anti-inflammatory drug meloxicam (Metacam: Boehringer Ingleheim) is well tolerated in these species. It has the advantage of being very palatable (it tastes like honey) so is well accepted also. Often patients require life long treatment. Secondary problems associated with anorexia (e.g. intestinal stasis where the guts shut down and stops moving) also need to be addressed. Often euthanasia is required in patients that fail to respond.
Prevention
As always, better than cure. The diet of these animals needs to resemble their diet in the wild. They are not like dogs and cats that get a bowl of food twice daily and that's it. Their anatomy and physiology is specifically set up to deal with ingestion of large quantities of lower quality foodstuffs in order to meet their nutritional requirements. This means lots of good quality hay. Timothy hay is usually the beat. The fibre requires lots of chewing and keeps the intestines moving which is essential for health. 1 to 2 tablespoonfuls maximum of concentrate mix is the recommended daily allowance; the rest should be good quality hay with occasional treats. Offer the hay in a hayrack to prevent contamination with faeces. This also provides environmental enrichment, as the animals have to work a little harder for their food. Twice yearly veterinary checkups allow careful palpation of the cheek teeth. Also monitor weight and faecal output on a regular basis so that any symptoms can be managed early in the course of disease.
References
BSAVA Manual of Exotic Pets 4th edition
Hillyer, Quesenberry: Diseases of Ferrets, Rabbits and Rodents 2nd edition
O Malley: Clinical Anatomy and Physiology of Exotic Species
Carpenter: Exotic Animal Formulary 3rd edition
By Mark Rowland Mark Rowland BVSc cert Zoomed MRCVS is in practice at: Sandhole Veterinary Centre, Snodland, Kent, ME6 5LG. He is an Exotics specialist with a soft spot for chinchillas.
Chinchillas are available for purchase from breeders or pet stores. When you purchase one from either place, you're probably getting a reputable one. Beware of those who are amateur breeders. They try to sell their chinchillas also, but it's usually in classified advertisements. Personal preferences decide on whether or not they should buy the pets from breeders or pet stores.
If you do buy one from a pet store, make sure that facility has a reputable following. The employees there should be knowledgeable about what you're looking to buy. They should also be able to offer you tips and suggestions to keep your pet healthy. If you're looking more on the breeding side, you should get one from a breeder. They will be able to advise you on the different aspect of breeding, etc.
Buying a chinchilla from a pet store is not without its risks. It's been noted that some pet stores take chinchillas that can't be bred or the skin can't be removed. If you are considering one of these pets from the pet store, ask about the breeders and related sources, along with a history of how they were raised. This way, if they have any problems, you'll know up front.
Then you can decide whether or not you want to still take on the task. If you can' insist a breeder in your area, then a pet store is probably your only recourse. If you have to get one from the pet store, ask how long have they been in the store's care. If you do decide to buy one from there, consult with the employees about getting a contingency agreement. This agreement allows you to return the pet if they don't pass a checkup. You would also get a refund from your purchase.
There are other factors to consider before buying a chinchilla. Make sure your are prepared to take care of the animal. This is something you have to be committed to and it takes time for them to nuture and develop. Check and make sure that the chinchilla is healthy. Check out their entire body for any abornormalties. The animal's cage should be clean. If it isn't, it may mean that it wasn't taken care of properly. The chinchilla may be disturbed and irritable if it has been paired up with different animals, such as birds or rabbits. This throws off their system during the day because chinchillas are night owls.
If you do buy a chinchilla, get one that is at least four months old. Anything younger than three months is not ready to be trained. Make sure the animal is in a cage that is located in a dry area. They need to be somewhere where they don't have direct exposure to the sun. They need to be away from heat and humidity because it can cause them harm. If you find that the chinchilla has a nervous tendency when you get close to it, it may be a sign of being nervous and scared. It's difficult to use these type of pets.
It is important that the chinchilla have food, hay and water. These are essentials that your pet should have in order to stay healthy.
