The Effect Of Exercise For CHINCHILLAS

Please read the comment on the end of this article!!

Chinchillas raised on a ranch get treated differently than those that are raised by breeders and pet owners.  Breeders and pet owners raised and treat their chinchillas like pets; ranchers treat their chinchillas like livestock.  To the ranchers, this is a business and they could care less about the animals getting adequate exercise or any exercise at all.  Their main concern is making a profit at the animal's expense.  Don't tell that to the breeder or pet owner.  In order to sustain their livelihood, they make sure that their pet chinchillas get in enough exercise to get them through each day.

Silver Mosaic Chinchilla with dark gray marking (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Chinchillas should have time to exercise out of their cages every day.  They need to have time to be free, provided there is supervision.  This would only happen with breeders and pet owners.  They know that these exotic animals get stressed when they feel they are being confined.  Stress can cause them to be anti-social and withdrawn.  They get irritated and start biting their fur.  The chinchillas raised on the ranch can't move very well because the ranchers don't take the time for them to exercise.  When they do get a chance to roam, it's at a snail's pace because of the confinement.  

In order for the chinchilla to live a long and healthy life, it is imperative that they get out of their cage and get some type of exercise, even if it's just walking around.  The chinchilla will also stay happy.  So if you're a breeder or a pet owner, you should do what you need to do to make this happen.  A regular exercise regimen will decrease stress and in turn keeps your immune system from harm.

When you really care for a chinchilla, they know it.  They know when you really love them and have their best interest at heart.  They have a positive attitude and they will be able to trust you and relate to you better.  This will definitely show when you allow them to have time out of their cage.  This eliminates other stress-related actions, such as spraying urine or fighting with other chinchillas.  This will help them relate to other chinchillas and get along with them as well.  The best exercises for them are walking and getting on the wheel located in their cage.  Doing exercises on the wheel can reduce the presence of being overweight and/or obese.

There is no such thing as a chinchilla getting too much exercise or eating too much.  They know when they've had enough of both.  When they're tired, they'll stop and take a break.  Exercising on a regular basis can eliminate potential health or behavioral problems, including stress.

The key with exercise is that it needs to be regular and consistent.  You can help your pet do this by increasing the muscle tone, agility and mobility.  You have to remember not to confine them like they're in jail.  Otherwise, they'll look dumpy like the ones that are raised on the ranch.  That is one way for them not to stick around for the long haul.    

Comment:

SydChilla ChinchillasJanuary 12, 2017 at 5:07 AM

This is wrong information, please note:
* Breeders agree with ranchers, because they are the experts.
* Exercise is unnecessary and triggers stress hormones. Chins are descended from burrow and rock crevice dwelling animals who conserve their energy and hide safely in their snug little holes 90% of their day. They forage and take food back to their den for the other frightening 10%, and don't risk exposure to predators unless they're hungry.
* Ranched chinchillas are some of the best looking animals in the world. Ranchers take very good care of their animals. You've never been to a actual chin ranch or you wouldn't dare write such rubbish.
* Chins don't need exercise to maintain muscle tone, reduce stress, improve agility, mobility, prevent obesity, prevent spraying, stop chewing, or any of the other reasons you listed. In fact, running on a wheel can contribute to stress related behaviors and illnesses.
* Fur chewing is not caused by lack of exercise.
* Chins can indeed get too much exercise. An owner will know when their chin acts tired, collapses, has siezures, or dies for no apparent reason.
* Ranchers don't exercise their chins because it's not good for them. Experienced breeders don't either. You haven't done your research.

Please remove this article, you are spreading bad information and endangering pet chinchilla health. 

Is A FERRET the Right Pet For You?

1) Specialized diets. Ferrets are obligate carnivores, which means that they require a special diet high in meat based protein in order to be healthy (34% meat protein and 22% fat is recommended). Some irresponsible pet owners feed low quality cat/kitten food to their ferrets because it is cheaper and can be picked up at the local grocery store; however this can lead to dangerous health problems for the ferret further down the road.

One of my Ferrets, his name is Cincin
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Most commercial cat/kitten foods use grain-based fillers such as corn, wheat or rice as their primary ingredient. Ferrets have very short gastrointestinal tracts which are unable to easily digest grains, fruits or vegetables; this type of food passes mostly undigested through their system, therefore they receive little to no nutritional value from the food, and eventually become ill and malnourished. High quality ferret food is available at pet stores and online, but can be pricier than standard dog or cat food; whether or not you can afford to purchase expensive food for your pet is one of the key factors to consider about ferret ownership.

2) Exotic pets. Although ferret ownership is legal in 48 states (it is illegal to own ferrets in California and Hawaii), many cities and counties can enact their own laws restricting ferret ownership. Verify that the city or county you live in does not have bans or restrictions requiring permits for your ferrets. If you rent or lease property, even if cats and dogs are allowed, do not automatically assume that ferrets are also included on the list of allowed pets. Violations of city or county laws can lead to fines, confiscation of your pet, and possibly euthanization. Violation of rental or lease agreements can also lead to fines and the possible eviction of you and your pets.

3) Children. Ferrets are NOT good pets for children. This is not to say that ferrets shouldn't be kept in homes with children, as long as both children and ferrets are supervised while playing together. Rather, ferrets are very high maintenance pets, which require a great deal of time, commitment and energy. Most children are unable to do the necessary work required to maintain a healthy and safe environment for a ferret, which can be considerably more intensive than the care needed for a dog or cat. Ferrets are not like gerbils or rabbits which can be left alone in small cages for long periods of time. Ferrets are - in fact - considered "exotic pets," and should not be purchased on a whim for a child because of how cute they look bouncing around in their cage at the pet store. For parents who think their seven-year-old is a prodigy and ready to learn about the heavy responsibilities of pet ownership; start with a goldfish, not a ferret. For one: a goldfish is much cheaper (ferrets can be anywhere from $80 to $140 not counting food, supplies and housing) and for another: when the inevitable happens and your child becomes bored of their cute new pet, which one do you want to end up taking care of for the rest of its natural lifespan? A goldfish that typically lives two to three weeks? Or a ferret that may live up to ten years?

4) Other Pets. Ferrets can be compatible with some household pets, but not others. As carnivores, ferrets will be guided by their natural instincts to hunt smaller animals like birds, rodents and lizards. If they can be kept safely apart from one another, it's possible for ferrets and small animals to coexist peacefully, but keep in mind that all it takes is forgetting to latch the iguana tank once, and then no more iguana! Larger animals like dogs and cats can be trained to accept a ferret into the home and will sometimes even play together, although some dog species (like terriers, who were bred to hunt small mammals) might be more prone to attack or seriously injure a ferret. It is best to consider the temperament of your currents pets and how they have reacted to new people/pets in the past; they will likely react in a similar fashion to a new ferret. Younger animals that are raised together will naturally have the easiest time cohabiting; older animals are typically more territorial and resistant to change.

5) Ferret-proofing. Ferrets are naturally curious creatures that will explore every nook and cranny of your home, and can cram themselves into the smallest and most difficult to reach places. This can include places that are dangerous for the ferret, like between the springs of a mattress or couch, beneath or inside a major appliance like a washing machine or a dishwasher, or inside cabinets containing poisonous cleaners or chemicals. Just like with a toddler or a small child, before getting a ferret one must ensure that the entire house or apartment has safety measures in place to prevent accidents from happening. This can be time consuming and necessitate a lot of hard work as you will need to try to predict all the possible places your ferret might squeeze, dig, climb or claw their way into.

Ferrets share another similarity with toddlers in that they like to pick up small objects off of the floor and chew on or eat them. Ferrets have short intestinal tracts in which objects can easily become lodged. This happens most frequently with small pieces of rubber or foam which expand inside the intestine when ingested and cannot be passed. Without immediate (and costly) surgery, such blockages are usually fatal; this is why the second part of ferret-proofing is combing your home for things a ferret might try to chew on or eat, and making sure they are out of the ferret's reach. Even larger objects like a foam rubber yoga mat or beach sandals can be problematic, since a ferret can gnaw off small chunks and swallow them. If you're not willing to make some changes to your home environment for safety's sake and be constantly vigilant of the whereabouts of your pet, then a ferret might not be the best choice for you.

6) Double (and sometimes triple) trouble. Ferrets are sociable animals, and need several hours a day of activity and social interaction in order to be healthy and happy. Many people recommend getting two ferrets instead of one, as ferrets will form strong pair bonds with their cage-mates. Although this is not a substitute for human/pet interaction, it can be helpful for people who need to leave the house for work during the day, but who still want to make sure their pet has companionship. The downside to having multiple ferrets is that you will need more space to house them, and you will be spending more money on food, litter, vet bills, and so on. However, if you are thinking about adopting a ferret from a shelter, it will often be a requirement that you adopt a pair of ferrets, as they will not wish to separate any of the ferrets from their cage mates. Pair-bonded ferrets that are separated can sometimes become deeply depressed to the point of refusing to eat, or even dying. This brings up another challenge, since if you decide to purchase two ferrets who become pair bonded, and then one dies, you are left with a solitary depressed ferret. For many people, the solution is to start out with three ferrets instead of two, but one must keep in mind the corresponding inverse ratio of more ferrets in your home to less money in your wallet, and plan accordingly.

7) Money. Ferrets can be expensive. Compared to buying a purebred dog or cat, the ferret itself isn't very pricey - usually a single ferret from a pet store (think Petco or Petsmart) will be around $80 to $140. But then you're going to have to buy a large cage (the larger the better - preferably with multiple levels) for your ferret to sleep in and maybe spend time in throughout the day if necessary - this will usually cost from $90 to $150. You'll need food and water bowls, litter pans, bags of ferret litter, ferret food, ferret-tone and ferret-lax (a coat conditioning supplement and a hairball treatment... you'll want both, most pet stores should have them), nail trimmers, a pet carrier, a hammock or sleeping tube for the ferret to lie in, and assorted toys. At this point you've probably spent at least $300 to $400 just for your initial setup.

Then you're going to need to find an exotic pet veterinarian in your area who sees ferrets, as your ferrets will need check-ups and vaccinations like all other pets. If you rent or lease, you may have to pay an extra pet deposit - be sure to check with your landlord. As mentioned previously, ferrets have a specialized diet and the best quality ferret foods tend to be in the pricey range. Ferrets are exotic pets, so even though you see them in the pet store next to the gerbils and across from the Betta fish, don't get the wrong idea; these are not cheap pets. If your ferret eats a piece of foam rubber that gets stuck in its intestine, you're looking at emergency veterinary surgery costing over $1000. Even if the initial cost of a ferret doesn't seem like much, consider whether you would be able to afford to take your ferret to the vet in case of emergency, which can be hundreds of dollars more than you originally planned for.

8) Smell. Ferrets have a musky scent. Some people like it, some people hate it, some people are indifferent. But there's no way to escape the fact that the ferret is a musky, smelly little creature. Generally ferrets sold in pet stores are de-scented, but this does not entirely eliminate the ferret's natural odor. You can buy waterless shampoo spray to put on the ferret's coat which temporarily gives it a fresh, floral scent, but this disappears fairly quickly. It's also possible to bathe ferrets using special shampoo, although supposedly this actually makes ferrets smellier afterwards because the shampoo strips natural oils from their skin, drying it out, which then causes their oil glands to overcompensate; this makes them smell worse than before their bath. There really isn't any way to completely eliminate the ferret's odor, however it can be minimized by making sure its cage/litter is cleaned frequently, and that it is eating high quality food free of fish byproducts. Before purchasing a ferret, go to your local Petco or Petsmart and put your nose over the top of the ferret cage; it will give you a pretty good idea of the type of smell you can expect to face if you bring one home.

9) Poo. Ferrets have a very high metabolism. They eat frequently, they digest their food quickly, and logically that means that they go to the bathroom a lot. When I say a lot, I mean A LOT. And ferret poo is smelly, so you're going to want to clean it up quickly - luckily it's small and easy to clean up. Just keep in mind that there's going to be a lot of it. Ferrets can be litter-box trained to a certain extent - they have a natural instinct to back up into the nearest corner whenever they feel the urge to go, so if a pan filled with litter pellets is placed in the corner, eventually they will make the connection and go to the bathroom in the litter pan. However if the ferret is feeling lazy, it will often just back up into the closest corner even if there's no litter pan there. If you want to be safe rather than sorry, you'll probably end up with litter pans or folded up newspaper in every intersection of two planes in your house, which may or may not clash with the interior design motif of your furniture.

10) Affection. Ferrets are fun, amusing, intelligent, playful, adorable pets. However they're not the same as dogs and cats. They don't particularly like being picked up, or pet, or cuddled; they're not very affectionate, although they do like stealing pieces of your clothing and stashing them in hidden nests throughout the house. Sometimes they seem glad to see you, although they might just be excited for the treats you're bringing over. If you want unconditional love, you should probably get a dog. If you want a furry lap warmer, you should probably get a cat. If you want a fuzzy ball of energy that's a whole lot of trouble, and that may or may not love you as much as you love it, but that will do its best to weasel its cute little way into your heart; then maybe a ferret is the right pet for you.

By Mandy L Maloon For more information on ferrets, go to: http://epicferret.com/oxwall/ Join the community at Epic Ferret and you can share your own epic ferret pictures, videos, blogs, and tips! Article Source: EzineArticles

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Training Small MAMMALS (E-Book)

There are several different issues to deal with when it comes to basic training for small mammals. These issues are important as it almost always has a direct impact on the small mammal. Sometimes when not handled well the impact can be so severe that the pet’s very life is put in jeopardy.

Being small in nature is already a minus point when it comes to training the animal. Therefore, any methods chosen would have to be done with the size of the animal being taken into consideration and this does cause complications as most training methods are designed for larger animals. However, on the positive side, these creatures are very intelligent and are capable of catching on very fast and adapt very well.

In order to train a particular small mammal to adapt to conditions provided, the pet owner must first take the time and effort to study the basic requirements of the breed in question and then closely emulate any of the necessary aspects that would be required for completing the comfort and safety of the animal through the training period. The handling of the animal during the training sessions is very important as most of these animals would not respond well initially to any human contact and may even perceive such advances as a threat.

Read more ont he E-Book: Training Small Mammals

26 pages

The History of the CHINCHILLA

This exotic animal was named after the Chincha people of the Andes region.  The Andes Mountains in South America.  Chinchilla actually means "little Chincha".  Back around the close of the 19th century, the animals were known for their thick and soft fur.  

There are two types of chinchillas.  The chinchilla brevicaudata, which is also known as the Bolivian, Peruvian and Royal chinchilla, has a short tail.  They came from the Andes Mountains in the regions of Chile, Peru and Bolivia.  This chinchilla was on the verge of becoming extinct and were known for the exquisite fur.  Even with the fur, the population of these animals continued to decrease.  The chinchilla lanigera, which is also known as the Chilean, Coastal or Lesser chinchilla, has a long tail.

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

This species of chinchilla can be found in Chile.  Even though the word "lanigera" means "having a woolen coat", they are covered with hair instead.  The hair is soft, sleek and sticks to their skin.   There are three types of chinchilla lanigera:  The LaPlata are muscular, round and have a short head.  The Costina has longer hind legs, slight hump and a pointed nose.  The Raton is similar to the LaPlata in they way it's structured.  It has a pointed nose and they are of a smaller size.

Burrows or cracks in rocks are where chinchillas reside.  They can jump very well and at least up to 5 feet high.  When residing in the wild, chinchillas consume fruits, seeds, plants and small insects.   As far as breeding is concerned, that can take place at any time of the year.  When the female chinchillas do procreate, their average length of pregnancy is 111 days.  For a chinchilla, that's a long period of time compared to other animals in that group.  Because their pregnancies are so long, their offspring are born with their eyes open and their body full of fur.  At the time of delivery, their litter is usually one or two, with the two more times than not are twins.

The first try of breeding started in 1895.  In that same year, the first animal was born and each year two litters were born.  In the summer of 1896, an unknown disease halted the breeding process.  By then, there were 13 animals and all of them succumbed within two months time.  Around 1918, there was a resurgence of chinchillas.  A man from California was interested in trapping chinchillas so he could raise them as pets.

At first, the Chilean government refused, but as the man kept asking, the government relented.  During three year period, only eleven chinchillas were captured.  They were brought back and bred in the United States.  This process started the first chinchilla farm.  This also started the process of the domestic chinchilla. 

The interest in chinchilla fur started in the 16th century as international trade.  Chinchilla fur is prevalent because it has a soft texture.  Because of even color across the board, people like to use it for lining large pieces of clothing or small pieces of clothing.

The fur can also be used to create an entire large piece of clothing.  So many chinchillas must be destroyed in order to make a coat because their skin is so small.  Because of this, one of the species became non-existent and supply for the other became scarce.  People still hunt and kill domestic chinchillas to create clothing, but wild chinchillas are no longer targeted for hunting.

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Proper FERRET Nutrition

It used to be that if you bought a ferret your only option was cat food. Luckily for ferret pet owners today, there are a plethora of choices and options when considering what to feed your ferret. Proper ferret nutrition is not only doable but also absolutely necessary to ensure your ferret is happy, healthy and will be a part of your family for years to come.

Photo by USFWS Mountain Prairie

Ferrets have a unique digestive tract. With no appendix or cecum, a ferret has a relatively small digestive tract. Because of this, they are made to digest proteins and simple carbohydrates but are incapable of dealing with complex carbohydrates (think beans, broccoli, grain). Their short digestive tract translates into a fast digestive process. From the time a ferret eats to defecation, only three hours have passed. Because of this, ferrets need to be fed frequently.

Because ferrets are meat eaters, they need to be a fed carnivorous diet high in protein and fat. It is best to keep the protein levels at thirty-four percent or higher and the fat content at a minimum of twenty percent. Because ferrets are rising in popularity, there are several brands in the marketplace today that specifically target ferrets. Zupreem, Totally Ferret and Marshall Premium Ferret are all excellent choices. When choosing food for your ferret, make sure that the first ingredient listed is an animal based protein such as poultry or lamb. If you are reading the packaging and see any type of grain come up as the first or second ingredient, skip it and move on to another brand.

Because ferrets eat based on immediate need, they usually will not overeat. Just make sure to have plenty of water and food available to your ferret throughout the entire day and night. Visit a pet store to find an appropriate food dish for your ferret. Being playful animals, ferrets can make a mess if the food dish is not weighted to avoid unnecessary spills.

Knowing what not to feed your ferret for proper nutrition is just as important. Never, ever feed your ferret dog food. If you do have a dog, make sure you keep any dog food completely inaccessible to your ferret. Ferrets also do not need any fruits, vegetables or dairy products to thrive. Due to their short intestinal tracts, such foods can lead to serious health problems.

Like any animal, ferrets love treats! When choosing treats for your ferrets, however, take care to stay away from anything sugary. You can make your own treats such as cooked meat or you can choose to purchase an approved ferret snack from the pet store. It is best to avoid giving your ferret any snack that is appealing to humans like peanut butter, chips or candy.

Proper ferret nutrition is not impossible and is actually relatively easy to achieve. The biggest obstacle to a ferret's health is most often its owner since they are at the mercy of your vigilance and care for their health. Just be sure to keep the diet high in good fats and protein and leave out any plant-based ingredients for a happy, healthy pet!

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Understanding Your PET RABBITSs Behavior - The Key to a Happy, Healthy Rabbit

It is important to understand rabbits behavior in order to have a successful relationship with one. Rabbits are often seen as adorable cuddly animals and many people especially children see them as an ideal pet often times with bad results. Rabbits make wonderful pets but unlike cats and dogs they have a unique form of communication primarily through body language and occasionally verbally. They can also understand some human words but primarily respond based on your tone of voice and your body language. Once you learn their language and also the basic care requirements you will be on your way to a pleasant experience as a rabbit owner.

It helps to put into perspective the rabbits instinctive position in the wild. Rabbits are prey animals therefore they are constantly on the lookout for danger and ready at anytime to take action to avoid predators. They live in social communities called Warrens and develop a hierarchy based on domination, as far as your rabbit is concerned you are also a rabbit and will have to establish your place in the Warren. Rabbits are also very territorial and will defend their territory against invaders.

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

To understand your pet rabbits behavior you will have to learn the many ways of communicating. Sometimes your rabbit's expression can mean very different things so you will have to do some interpretation based on your experience with your rabbit.

Sniffing - May be annoyed or just talking to you
Grunts - Usually angry, watch out or you could get bit!
Shrill scream - Hurt or dying
Circling your feet - Can be part of a courtship dance or a means of getting attention. If other aggressive indicators are displayed, e.g. an erect tail and laid back ears, an attack is about to take place.
Chewing - is a natural behavior. This keeps your rabbits teeth ground down and is instinctive to keep any obstruction (electrical cords, etc.) that are encroaching on the entrance to his burrow
Spraying - Males that are not neutered will mark female rabbits in this manner as well as their territory. Females will also spray.
Chinning - Their chin contains scent glands, so they rub their chin on items to indicate that they belong to them. Same as a cat rubbing its forehead on people and objects.
False pregnancy - Usually just unspayed females may build a nest & pull hair from their chest & stomach to line the nest. They may even stop eating as rabbits do the day before they give birth.
Bunny hop/dance - a jump straight up with a mid-air half turn and a twist usually executed in mid-run. A sign of pure joy & happiness!
Begging - Rabbits are worse than dogs about begging, especially for sweets. Beware of giving the rabbit treats as overweight rabbits are not as healthy as trim rabbits.
Boxing - rabbit stands on hind legs with their dukes up and throws punches. Stay back or your going to get it.
Territory droppings - Droppings that are not in a pile, but are scattered, are signs that this territory belongs to the rabbit. This will often occur upon entering a new environment. If another rabbit lives in the same house this may always be a nuisance.
Flop - rabbit literally throws his/herself onto their side which looks like they just keeled over. You have a happy at ease rabbit.
Playing - Rabbits like to push or toss objects around. They may also race madly around the house, jump on and off of the couch and act like a kid that's had too much sugar.
Burrowing -  Tunneling behavior. Instinctive Rabbits are burrowing animals
Bunching - Pushing, pulling, and biting bed linens, towels, pillows. Organizing to their liking
Don't touch my stuff - Rabbits often are displeased when you rearrange their cage as you clean. They are creatures of habit and when they get things just right, they like them to remain that way.
Stomping - He's frightened, mad or trying to tell you that there's danger (in his opinion).
Teeth Grinding - Indicates contentment, like a cats purr. Loud grinding can indicate pain.

One of the joys of having a rabbit as a pet is to fully experience all of the behaviors your rabbit will exhibit as a happy rabbit. In order for your rabbit to be happy it is important to know how to care for and keep you rabbit comfortable.

Rabbits are social animals and do best with a fellow rabbit companion along with lots of attention form you. Make sure you provide plenty of play time along with human interaction. If your rabbit is happy and comfortable you will find that they will seek you out to cuddle and often times will curl up on your chest to take a bunny nap but don't forget most rabbits don't like to be picked up. Most rabbits will get along just fine with other animals such as dogs, cats, and other small mammals be they need to be properly introduced. Most rabbit organizations can guide you through the steps. Be cautious if you have young children since rabbits can be easily squeezed to hard and injured.

Understanding your pet rabbits behavior is important but most or all enjoy your pet rabbit to the fullest. For more information on understanding your rabbit's behavior visit www.furryfriends4life.com Article Source: EzineArticles

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Beginner's Guide to Caring For PET RATS

Contrary to popular belief rats can be an excellent pet for you and your family. They are friendly social and very active creatures. But it can take a little bit of knowledge if you want to take care of it correctly. So, if you are thinking about raising a pet rat, this small guide should get you up and on your way.

Pet rat named Albertina
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Putting together a home for your pet rat
Before buying your pet you will need a place that your he or she can call home. Well, for starters, you will need a large cage. It is recommended that pet rats have cages that are 1.5 square feet or better for each pet rat you plan to bring home. Make sure that the cage has a very solid surface as well. Barring should be no more than a half inch as rats can squeeze through very small areas, and it should be powder coated to avoid being corroded over time by rat urine. For bedding, be careful as woodchips such as cedar and pine shavings have been known to sometimes have adverse affects on small animals such as rats. If you use wood shaving only use Aspen shavings. Another good alternative is Carefresh bedding, which is excellent and non-toxic to small animals.

Rats should be kept in a neutral temperature away from extreme heat, cold or drafts. Also, be sure to keep the area around the rat cage clear. Rats will chew on anything they can get their hands on, so please be sure to keep all items bug or small away from the rat's cage.

Where to get a rat from
Now that you have a place that your rat can truly call home, it is now time to pick a rat for you to take home. But what kind of rat is a good rat? When looking for a good pet rat you should first consider the source. Many people would initially think that a pet shop might be an ideal place for you to buy your pet rat, but this not true. The best place to buy your pet rat is from a rat breeder. Most of these rats have been handled with care by the owner since birth and are tame enough to be made pets. Often the rats that you will get from your local pet store are used for snake food and have been under a lot of stress. They are sometimes unhealthy and can be a waste of money if you invest in it.

Also, it is often good to buy pet rats in pairs, as rats can get very lonely when by themselves. Buy rats in same-sex pairs and NOT different sex pair unless you are planning to breed pet rats. Many times, breeders will not sell you a pet rat unless they know that you own another rat that can be there as a companion.

Bringing your pet rat home
When bringing your pet rat home, be aware that rats are very easily startled. The staple diet for your rat should be lab blocks or homemade grain mix such as "Suebees Diet" or dog food. There are many rat food recipes online. You can also supplement their diet with fresh fruits, veggies, seeds, or cooked beans.
Cleaning up after your pet rat
Cleaning should be done at minimum on a weekly basis and daily spot checks need to be made of our rats cage to ensure that the rats conditions remain healthy and sanitary, I recommend buying a second cage for changing purposes to make things easier for you.
Handling your pet rat

The most important part of having a rat is being able to enjoy it. Spend as much time with your rat as you can, so that it can get used to you being around. When picking up rats, do not hold them by the tail. Hold it in a cup like positions as rats like to jump.

By Phillip W Wilson Phillip is an expert on pet care and pet care supplies for small animals. If you are interested in finding out more information about pet care supplies including rat cages  and other pet cages [http://www.petcagesuperstore.com/servlet/StoreFront] visit his website. Article Source: EzineArticles

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