Spiders can make great pets! I wouldn't suggest anyone with arachnophobia (fear of spiders) having one as a pet, but even beginner pet owners can take care of some types of spiders.
Tarantulas are the most common type of spider kept as a pet and have become more and more popular as a pet in recent years. Although people tend to fear to keep a tarantula as a pet, it is often more harmful to the animal than to the pet owner. Tarantulas can die from a shortfall if their abdomen ruptures, so great care must be taken when handling one.
Tarantulas are venomous, but in most species, the toxicity of their venom is not strong enough to seriously harm a person. A tarantula bite can be compared to a bee or was a sting. In most cases, it is harmless, though a person can have an allergic reaction to spider bites in much the same way that some react to bee stings.
There are hundreds of species of tarantulas and some are more aggressive than others. A few types that are great for beginners are Chilean Rose (Grammostola rosea), Curly Hair Tarantula (Brachypelma albopilosum) and Costa Rican Zebra (Aphonoplema seeman). The first is often the most highly recommended as they are considered the most passive of tarantulas.
In general, ground-dwelling or burrowing tarantulas are ideal for beginners, as they tend to be slower which decreases the chance of escaping their habitat or their owner's hands.
Most pet dealers sell only female tarantulas, as these make the best pets. Females live much longer than males as pets, and male tarantulas will wear themselves down trying to escape to find a mate.
The ideal habitat for a tarantula is a small, plastic terrarium or aquarium. Be sure to check that the lid is secured tightly, as tarantulas can be surprisingly strong. Line the bottom of the habitat with potting soil that can be dampened every so often.
Include a water dish and objects for the spider to hide in. Food can include small insects like crickets and moths. Also, make sure all items within the cage are soft. Tarantulas are climbers and if they fall on rocks or sharp objects, they can die. Temperatures should be above 70 but less than 90 degrees within the habitat.
Female tarantulas may molt about once per year, and when they do this, they will flip onto their side or back. It isn't dying (a dying tarantula will often curl its legs under itself), and should not be touched while on its back. After the spider molts, which can take a few hours, it is extremely fragile and should not be handled for at least a week.
The best thing to do if you're interested in keeping a tarantula as a pet is to research the particular species, as they can vary greatly, and remember to handle it gently. Believe it or not, but you are far more dangerous to a tarantula than it is to you.
Tonia Jordan is an author on http://www.Writing.com/ which is the online community for writers. She is also a stringer for the Standard-Speaker, a Pennsylvania newspaper, and is editor of Word of Mouth Magazine. Article Source: EzineArticles
Caring for your Marshall ferrets is extremely important since it will ensure that you will have a very rewarding experience with your pet ferret. There are many aspects to consider when you are taking care of your Marshall ferrets.
Ferret health needs to be checked regularly. They tend to swallow things and that they are not able to filter what they get their paws on. This danger will require you lots of vaccinations and treatment options. You may even have to consider having the number of the veterinarian on speed dial in case there will be emergencies.
Ferret Diet
Ferrets are carnivores and they like a healthy dose of rodents and other tiny mammals that they can eat. But you also have to watch out for what the ferrets eat because if it were a dirty mouse, they might get infected with a lot of viruses. Processed ferret food is also an option but it is expensive and may contain less of the required nutrients.
Training
Training your wild Marshall ferrets can be very challenging, and you might need the help of an expert in training ferrets to ensure the best results. But if you have enough passion and drive to train your pet ferret, you can do so. You can start by having a specific time and place to train your Marshall ferret. You might also need to outline specific tasks that you want your ferret to do or things that you expect them to be able to perform after you train them.
Teething
Teething can be a very challenging for your Marshall ferrets. But you need not be scared when this occurs. The thing with teething is that your pet ferret will constantly need to grind and move its teeth as its molars and other types of teeth come out.
Taking them On Field Trips
The thing with Marshall ferrets is that they really need a lot of variety, especially with their surroundings. They always like to be excited and they need to be taken on frequent or regular field trips. As a pet owner, you can get creative and not have to go past your backyard by having the right props to mix and match for your pet ferret. But in case things get stale, they like open spaces and then some holes with which they can move their way in. You may even play fetch with your pet ferret and put certain colorful objects underneath the holes for them to pick.
Letting Them Socialize with Other Ferrets
Socializing is also an important facet of caring for your Marshall ferrets. They will get very lonely if they are left to fend for themselves. You only need to monitor their activities with other ferrets to avoid injuries. There may be some injuries but they are minor and part of the whole socialization thing they have to undergo as ferrets.
Ferret Proof Your House
Your house must also be friendly to Marshall ferrets. You must not leave objects that are hazardous lying around. Also, avoid enticing them with food that can be detrimental to their health like chocolates that can cause stomach aches.
Be very careful with holes that lead to electrical wiring or pipes as the ferrets may get too adventurous and head off to that area and endanger themselves. Make sure that the areas where they are not supposed to roam free are closed shut.
Let's talk about how to make a bunny happy! (Because you have to admit, when they're happy, we're happy too!)
Holland lop show bunny broken sable point (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
First things first. How do you know when your bunny is happy? Bunnies love to show it! If your bunny flops on her side and just lies there with her eyes closed, you'll know all is right with her world. She might scare you the first time she does this, and it's not uncommon for a new bunny owner to think something is wrong. Don't worry. Your bunny is just telling you she's happy. It's the happy flop.
Then there's the binky. If your bunny binkies, you know she's on top of the world. Binkies are crazy happy dances. Your bunny will hop in the air, twirl her head and spin around then maybe start running at top speed. Any bunny owner will attest to the great joy it brings to see their bun or buns do the binky dance.
Now, how to keep your bunny content? First and foremost is attending to her chewing needs. Bunnies absolutely love to chew. Phone books are popular with bunnies who love to shred the pages, so make sure you keep all of your old phone books (you might even ask your friends and family for theirs.) A bunny can go through a phone book pretty quickly.
Toilet paper and paper towel rolls are also safe and popular chew toys for bunnies. To make it even more fun, you can take a roll and stuff hay inside for them to dig out.
Boxes and paper bags are also a great source of entertainment for bunnies. You can fill the paper bag with hay, or just put an open paper bag on the floor for the bunnies to crawl into and dig. You'll be surprised at how long they can entertain themselves by playing with the bag.
Cardboard boxes are also an incredibly easy source of entertainment. Take a fairly large box and cut several doorways and windows into it. (Bunnies always prefer to have at least two entrances.) Your bunny will love to go in and dig, chew (making the doorways or windows bigger) and hide away. It's also a great place to put your bunny's haywhich she can eat as well as dig. You can also securely tape a bunch of cardboard boxes together, so the bunnies can run through them and play.
Use your imagination and creativity, and you'll find there are endless ways to turn everyday cardboard boxes into a playground for your bunnies.
Spiders might not be for everyone, but for some people they are fascinating and ingenious little creatures that make unique pets. There are over 38,000 spider species in the world, and climbing, however pet enthusiasts only commonly keep a tiny percentage of these. Most commonly kept are the tarantula species as they are large, have little venom and are fairly easy to care for. In this article you will learn the basics for keeping such a fascinating pet.
Mexican Red Knee tarantula (Brachypelma sp), a new-world species (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Before you buy
Make sure your motives for buying a pet tarantula are right. Some people buy them to look cool or even brave. This won't be good for you or your spider in the long run! Also make sure you understand they aren't companionable pets and they are more geared to being observed rather than 'played' with. Most tarantula species can live for around 5 years, some for much more, so put a lot of thought into if you really want one. Reading this through may help you decide!
If you decided you really do want an eight legged friend, research! You should look at what sort of tarantula you want and what its specific needs are. Some good starter species include;
The Pink Toe
Mexican Red Knee
Chilean Rose
Curly Hair
You should also be aware that if you have asthma or an allergic reaction to insect bites extreme caution and thought should be given to your decision. Tarantulas have a bite equal to a bee sting and can flick irritating hairs at potential threats. While the above species are fairly docile, they will still defend themselves if they feel threatened.
Housing a pet Tarantula
Most spiders need very small amounts of space. Most spider keepers use plastic 'faunariums' which are small plastic tubs with ventilated plastic roofing. These are more than adequate. Of course you can buy starter kits that have glass tanks and mesh tops or you can buy glass vivariums with mesh tops for the same purpose. It all depends on preference and budget!
Keep in mind the dimensions, species such as the Pink Toe are arboreal, meaning a taller space, rather than floor space is preferred. Others, such as the Red Knee, prefer floorspace, to burrow and rest on.
You should position your enclosure somewhere quiet, away from household 'traffic' and noise. You should not place it in draughts, next to radiators or in direct sunlight.
Heating and light
Tarantulas do not require lighting however a small heat mat, either to cover half the tank at the bottom for terrestrial species or half of the side for arboreal species, is needed. A thermometer should be placed in the enclosure to make sure the temperature is correct for your species of spider.
Decor for your spider
Generally tarantulas require very little decor. It is generally easier to maintain the enclosure with less decor. Depending on the type of tarantula, you will require different set ups.
Food and water bowls
You will not need food bowls for your spider, however a water 'bowl' is essential. You should provide a small, fairly shallow dish or bowl made from either plastic or ceramic, you should avoid metal types as they can be harmful.Inside the bowl or dish moist cotton wool or 'bug gel' should be placed. This will help the spider to get extra moisture without the risk or drowning.
Substrate
You should check the individual requirements of each specie, but generally vermiculite, bark or other soft material, such as peat. Desert species shouldn't be kept on sand as it can cause molting problems, instead you should ensure there is a covering of dry vermiculite.
Other Decor
Climbing (arboreal) spiders, such as the Pink Toe or Stripe Knee will appreciate small plastic plants, either attached to the side or roof of the tank or stood securely in the tank.
Terrestrial species, such as the Chilean rose, will appreciate cork bark, resin hides or even bark hides to take refuge in. Some species, such as the Mexican red knee will like to occasionally burrow. You can partly bury plastic hamster 'tubes' in the substrate to recreate a solid burrow that won't collapse.
Any other decor, such as stones, plants or ornaments should be cleaned with hot water and inspected for sharp or dangerous edges. They are not needed and will be purely for the 'look' of the enclosure, making it a little more natural.
Moulting in spiders
Spiders grow by shedding their exoskeleton. This is a delicate process in which the spider is most vulnerable. During this process the spider will create a large amount of silk on the floor or other stable surface. When he is ready to moult he will lay on his back with legs tucked in.
It is really important not to disturb the spider during this time as their outer skin, the exoskeleton, is literally coming off and any disruption can seriously damage the soft underlying skin, being potentially fatal to your pet.
The length of a moult can vary between species. The preparation can be a week or so to a few days although the actual 'shedding' process is usually around several hours. You will know when it is over as a 'skeletal' spider will be left and your pet will most likely retreat to safety.
It is important to gently mist the enclosure during this time, not soaking it but not allowing it to become 'arid'. You also need to be careful not to directly spray your pet! Food items should be removed from the cage and the water dish should be moist.
You should remove the moult, either disposing of it where other pets or children won't get hold of it or safely keeping it as a record of growth. If you choose to do this you should put it in a bag or container, again away from children and pets.
Feeding your tarantula
Spiders in the wild eat a great range of foods, depending on the species they will eat insects right up to lizards and small birds. Luckily most pet tarantulas, certainly those for beginners, are well suited to a diet of insects.
When purchasing your spider you should ask about what it is usually fed on, yes they do sometimes have a preference! It will also give you an indication of how large the prey items should be. As a general rule the item should not be bigger than it's thorax ( the part before the abdomen, where the legs are situated).
When feeding your spider there are several types of food to try. Most common is crickets. Brown crickets are softer and more suited to younger spiders although adults will enjoy them along with the larger, tougher, black crickets (also refereed to as 'field crickets'.)
You can also give meal worms and morios although they tend to burrow and can be a nuisance to your spider if uneaten. Some people like to feed roaches, small locusts and the occasional wax worm, but this should be as a very occasional treat.
It is best to research what your species would naturally eat and with the advice of the supplier, use good sense to form a nutritious diet for your pet. You can also use gut loading supplements to enhance the diet.
Spiders will eat only a little. You shouldn't feed daily, one or two items a week is more than enough. This should be altered depending on the size of the item taken. Younger spiders will require slightly more, perhaps 2-4 small items a week.
Any uneaten food items should be removed before the end of the day as they can annoy and cause damage to your pet. Spiders will sometimes refuse food especially before a moult. Because of the vulnerability during this time, even a cricket could kill your spider, so you must remove uneaten food!
Problems with spiders
Spiders rarely get any health issues, however there are a few that can cause problems and must be dealt with.
Mites
This is caused by too moist conditions, in which mites will multiply rapidly. If left untreated they will clog the mouth and 'book lungs' (the 'nostrils' on the side of the thorax) causing death. Signs of mites include the spider seeming reluctant to move, perhaps submerging himself in the water dish or curling up with legs underneath. To confirm mites, check in the night, when lights have been off, with a bright torch. If you see specks crawling on the tank walls, decor, substrate or spider, it has mites.
To deal with it you must move the spider to a different container while the substrate and decor is removed from the original. You should soak the decor in hot water and rinse the tank with a bleach solution. Be extremely careful to thoroughly rinse the tank out, if you can still smell bleach after it has dried, rinse again! You can then place new substrate and replace the decor along with your pet. If the problem persists you should seek a vets advice.
In 1995 the world of hedgehogs changed. That was the year that the first competitive hedgehog show was held. The show was so popular that now there are sanctioned hedgehog shows in several states and Canadian provinces.
The purpose of the hedgehog shows is to encourage hedgehog owners and breeders to adhere to the Standard of Perfection. The Standard of Perfection is a guideline of what the perfect hedgehog should be the type of hedgehog that the breeders should aspire to. The shows are a way to reward the breeders and owners of the hedgehogs who come closest perfection. These hedgehogs are the ones that the judges feel will improve the overall quality of the species.
Types of Classes
At a hedgehog show, there are usually several different classes. The classes are usually divided by things like age, sex, and the color of a hedgehog. The shows try to create a big enough variety in their classes to give each hedgehog an opportunity to compete in lots of classes.
In addition to classes that divide hedgehogs into categories, there are usually classes that separate the youth competitors from adults.
What the Hedgehog is Judged On
When a hedgehog judge looks at a hedgehog they are evaluating several things including; color, quality of the quills, and body shape. All of the judges at hedgehog shows agree that the most important thing to consider when evaluating a hedgehog is the temperament. The first thing they are looking for when evaluating a hedgehog is temperament. These animals are pets, a good, friendly, quiet personality is important. Hedgehogs with ideal conformation but have are high strung or cranky won't place as well as a quiet, friendly hedgehog with mediocre conformation.
Preparing your Hedgehog
Make sure you have a clean cage that you can keep your hedgehog in while you are at the show. The type of cage isn't important. You just want to make sure the cage is safe and clean. Line the cage with fresh bedding. After you have finished preparing the cage, you will want to make sure you have plenty of extra supplies close at hand.
After packing everything you are going to need, it is time to get your pet hedgehog ready. This means it will need a warm bath that will remove any debris from its body. Gently scrub at its quill with a toothbrush. Don't forget to trim your hedgehog's toenails.
How to Enter
If you are interested in entering your hedgehog in a show, you will want to contact the show organizers and have them send you an entry form. Make sure you fill out the entry form correctly and follow the instructions.
. But in case things get stale, they like open spaces and then some holes with which they can move their way in. You may even play fetch with your pet ferret and put certain colorful objects underneath the holes for them to pick. 
