First off let's start off with what you should never feed you guinea pig:
-Potatoes and potato skins
-Iceberg lettuce (most other lettuce is okay)
-Rhubarb
-Beans
-Cauliflower
-Chocolate
Chocolate and potato skins and potatoes have been known to kill or make Guinea pigs sick. The other stuff is very unhealthy. If you are not sure about a food item you are going to feed you guinea pig then don't feed them it until you have researched further.
Now what to feed your guinea pig: Guinea pigs need a lot of fibre and vitamin C (because just like humans they cannot produce vitamin C and need to do bowel movements.
-Guinea pigs need and love hay, do to the fact that it provides a good source of fibre and guinea pigs need lots of fibre.
-Hay - the best type of hay for your Guinea pig is Timothy hay unless they are very young under 4 months, pregnant or nursing sows then use alfalfa-based hay. You should make sure there is always hay in the cage for your Guinea pig (it is best if it is not touching the ground so it does not get contaminated).
-Pellet food - one essential thing here is that you never feed theme any other type of pellet food then guinea pig food, so too the fact that guinea pig food contains vitamin C and others are not as healthy for them. Make sure you get a good brand of food because that is one of the main things guinea pigs eat, as in hay give them as much as they need usually a small handful per piggy, but if there is a lot leftover the next day then add less in the mornings, also if the bowl is constantly empty the next day then add more.
-Water - very important to make sure that their sippy bottle always has plenty of fresh cool water in it.
-Veggies and fruits - if your guinea pig does not get enough of these then it will not have enough vitamin C in its system which could cause scurvy. Most vegetables are good for your guinea pig(s) except of course the ones I mentioned earlier (again of course if you are not sure of something you are planning pm feeding your guinea pig look it up) some of the best fruits and veggies are apples, carrots, pear, and most lettuces (never iceberg), there are many more that are suitable. Some guinea pigs can be very picky about what they eat so make sure you introduce what you want to feed to them when they are still young.
Cage:
Guinea pig cages should not be looked at as a cage, they should be looked at as a home, because unlike dog cages were you put your dog when it sleeps or when you are out the guinea pig spends most of the time in its cage. So the cage should be at least 2.5 ft by 2.5 ft for one pig and for each additional pig you should as at least 2 ft by 2ft of cage size but bigger won't hurt. The walls should be at least 1 foot high. because guinea pigs natural habit when they are scared or startled is to run to shelter you should have a house in your guinea pig cage about twice the size of the pig and with an opening, it can just fit in, you need one house per pig.
Bedding:
Is the stuff that goes on the bottom of the cage, you should get a quality bedding like if not using this then make sure you are using one that isn't too strong smelling. DO NOT USE CEDAR WOODCHIPS; Guinea pigs are allergic to them so they can cause health problems. The Bedding shouldn't have to be more then 2cm thick, if you see the bottom of the cage after your pig has been running through it then add more after the next cleaning.
Cleaning:
You should clean the cage about once a week, that includes removing the guinea pig(s) putting it or them in a safe environment, for the time being, then remove the bedding and anything else wash the cage itself the house or houses sterilize the water bottle and food bowl dry everything, then put fresh bedding in then the cage then the food and attach the water bottle and finally the guinea pig(s) should only take 10-20 minutes.
Handling:
When you are removing the guinea pig from its cage be sure not to startle it because it will run away and hide. When picking up place one hand under its ribcage area and the other on its bottom, pick up slowly. Do not place your guinea pig on any high places that it can fall off or hurt its self. When holding the guinea pig be sure not to squeeze him be gentle and safe. Your guinea pig may be afraid of humans at first but if you are careful with him it won't be long till he/she will love to be picked up.
Exercise:
Guinea pigs like all animals need exercise, you can help them to get exercise by giving them a larger cage or having a large enclosed area for them to run around and play well you watch, they are usually more active when happy or in pairs.
Cleaning & Caring:
Guinea pigs need their nails trimmed and fur brushed, trimming there nails can be very difficult so make sure to have someone show or tell you how to do it before doing it yourself because you can hurt them if you do it wrong. If your guinea pig is smelly or greasy you can bath him bye filling up your sink with water, make sure his face stays dry. if you are using shampoo make sure to get it from a vet, if so then make sure to rinse it all out by taking soap-free water and pouring it gently on your guinea pig. Use a towel to dry him be very gentle to not hurt your piggy, never use a blow dryer because the heat can hurt guinea pigs.
Health:
If you see any health problems consult your local vet. this goes the same for any other pet on this website including Ferrets, Hamsters, Pet Mice, or Rabbits
Chinchillas do a good job at hiding their illnesses and injuries, they're prey animals. If your Chinchilla needs medical care, a veterinarian acquainted in Chinchilla care is required. If you notice your Chinchilla acting drowsy, having a change in appetite, or having discharge from the eyes or nose, you should get your Chinchilla to the vet ASAP. Hand-feeding is often necessary when dealing with a sick or injured Chinchilla. It's common for a Chinchilla who is sick or injured to become anorexic. Becoming anorexic will lead to even more problems. Once a Chinchilla goes off its feed, it's necessary to begin hand-feeding.
A first-aid kit is good to have for minor injuries and ailments. It's a good idea to be prepared for more serious illnesses by having all of the basic supplies early. You should have Blu-Kote, which is a cleaning spray/liquid that can be used on fungus and wounds. You'll need Oxbow Critical Care, which is for hand feeding. Next, you'll need Life Line, a great supplement for sick/injured Chinchillas. You will need Syringes, both large and small for hand feeding and managing medication. Then, you'll need Vitamin E Oil and/or Bag Balm for dry skin. You'll also need Acidophilus, for the maintenance of good bacteria of the digestive tract. Last, you will need Kaolin-pectin, treatment of stress-induced diarrhea.
If your Chinchilla stops eating on their own, it's necessary to hand feed them. Chinchillas unfortunately commonly go anorexic if they're sick, injured, or taking medication. Oral Baytril is infamous for causing Chinchillas to stop eating. Place your Chinchilla in a carrier and lay down paper towels if you're unsure if your Chinchilla is eating. Observe your Chinchilla see if any stools are produced. If no stools or small, hard poops are created, then it may be a sign that they have gone off their feed. The best food replacement for Chinchillas is Oxbow Critical Care. Critical care comes in primitive and apple banana flavors. You can get critical care from a vet that supplies Oxbow products. It comes in a powder form and it's mixed with water to become a paste or liquid consistency. It's good to have it on hand in case an emergency should emerge. Then, you're prepared and time isn't wasted if something does happen to your Chinchilla and it refuses to eat.
If a Chinchilla doesn't eat, it can go into GI Stasis. GI Stasis is where the digestive system shuts down. The Chinchilla must constantly have food moving through its system or it will begin to shut down. That's why hand feeding is so critical if a Chinchilla stops eating. To hand feed a Chinchilla or manage antibiotics, it's a good idea to wrap him up in a towel or a blanket. It's called the burrito method. You wrap the Chinchilla up securely, but not too tight. Make sure to wrap the legs. Hold firmly, but not enough to injure the Chinchilla. After being wrapped up, the Chinchilla will usually calm down.
A syringe can be used to hand-feed or to give medication. Place the syringe in the side of the mouth, behind the front incisors, and squirt only a small amount of liquid in at a time. Keep in mind not to give too much, the Chinchilla can aspirate.
The fungus is caused if Chinchillas are kept in environments with high humidity. It makes them delicate to ringworm. If can also occur if a Chinchilla gets wet and isn't dried thoroughly. It's highly contagious so it can easily be transferred from other Chinchillas, animals, or people. They lose their fur, they get itchy, they get dry, and they get red and/or scaly skin. You must see a vet. The vet can do a skin scrape and test for the area for fungal spores. If you're fine with treating the fungus yourself, you can follow the treatment guideline. If the treatment doesn't seem to be working, definitely consult a vet. To treat yourself, add Tinactin powder to the dust bath. Add about one heaping spoon to a cup of dust. Apply Blu-kote to the affected area. Sanitize the cage and anything else with bleach. Throw away any wood since it's porous and hard to sanitize. Continue the treatment for at least six weeks or until the vet says. Be sure the Chinchilla is fungus-free before allowing contact with others.
You can prevent them by keeping the cage clean. Be sure the Chinchilla isn't in a humid environment. Keep the Chinchilla from getting wet. Keep any effected Chinchillas away from others and be sure to isolate new Chinchillas for at least thirty days. A fungus is extremely contagious, but not deadly. It can be difficult to get rid of. When treating the fungal infection, being persistent is key. It's important to practice safe hygiene because the ringworm can be transferred to you. Fungus in Chinchillas is most common around the eyes, nose, mouth, and ears.
Chinchillas get eye infections from irritation in the eye, bacteria, or a virus. You will know if you see wet fur around the eye, watery eyes, red/irritated eyelids, swollen eyelids, or goop coming from the eyes. You should definitely see a vet! It's a good idea to have the vet test their eye with a dye solution to make sure the cornea has not been scratched. You can treat it by giving them eye drops or applying gel to the affected eye(s). You can also be prescribed an oral antibiotic. You can prevent eye infections by keeping the cage hygienic and practice hygienic handling. Avoid contact with other pets!
Parasites in tap water cause Chinchillas to get parasites. They could also get it by other infected animals. They get diarrhea, mucous-like stools, larger stools, weight loss, loss of their appetite, or change in their activity levels. You should take them to a vet. The vet will test a fresh sample and then examine it under a microscope looking for parasites and/or other cysts. The Chinchilla should be given antibiotics or antiparasitics in rounds. The most common medication prescribed that's effective is Flagyl. If the infection is bad, it will be needed more than once. To upkeep fiber, unsweetened shredded wheat can be used. Clean everything the animal comes in contact with! Sanitize the cage with bleach. Any wooden items should be sanded down or disposed of. Keep in mind, their recovery can take weeks. It may be necessary to hand feed. Definitely monitor their weight. To prevent parasites, give your Chinchilla filtered, bottled, or reverse osmosis. Isolate any new animals for a minimum of thirty days. Avoid any contact with other animals. The most common parasite that Chinchillas becomes infected by is giardia. Giardia is an intestinal parasite that can cause diarrhea and anorexia, and leading to dehydration. Giardia is contagious. It can be passed from pets to other pets and even people. After coming in contact with the parasite, it could take between one to two weeks for any symptoms to appear. When treating the parasite(s), vet care and prescribed medication is a MUST!
Upper respiratory infections are caused by a bacterial infection, contact with other animals, crowded conditions, or poorly ventilated housing. They start sneezing; have labored breathing, nasal discharge, watery eyes AKA: conjunctivitis, clicking sound when breathing, wheezing, or squeaking. You should definitely see a vet quickly. URI's can be serious very quickly. Most likely, the vet will prescribe an oral antibiotic but may give an injectable if you're comfortable with it. Keep your Chinchilla away from drafts. Keep up with sanitation conditions and avoid contact with other animals.
Bumblefoot is caused by unsanitary cage conditions or wire flooring which causes feet to become dry and cracked. A bacterium gets into their wounds and causes the infection known as bumblefoot. Their symptoms consist of dry, cracked, or bleeding feet. To treat bumblefoot keep the animal on soft bedding such as fleece. Remove any wire or cover with solid shelving or fleece. Apply Blu-kote to the feet. If the problems continue to occur, then take the Chinchilla to the vet for antibiotics.
Chinchillas bloat because of bad feeding habits including excessive treats, vegetables, fruits, anorexia, or constipation. They are stretching, have lethargy, twisting, lie flat, or press their belly to the ground. If you notice the symptoms, see a vet immediately! X-rays can be taken to determine if the belly is full of gas bubbles. The vet should prescribe GI medications like Reglan and Propulsid. Manage infants' Mylicon AKA Simethicone. It helps break down gas bubbles. Give Reglan and Propulsid. With small, circular, firm motions moving downward, the belly can be massaged. Let the Chinchilla have gentle exercise to help get their gut moving. Give them plenty of high count acidophilus. Do not feed them excessive or sugary treats. Do not give any fruits or vegetables. Make sure to provide the Chinchilla with healthy Chinchilla pellets and hay. Complete the diet with acidophilus.
GI Stasis is caused by anorexia, stemming from stress, dehydration, pain, injuries, illness, or blockage. They appear to have anorexia, lethargy, small hard stools, or even no stools at all. Definitely see a vet immediately! It is very hard to treat. They should get constant massages, hand feeding, and medications that are definitely needed such as Reglan and Propulsid. To prevent GI Stasis, hand-feed the Chinchilla if it goes of its feed for ANY reason.
Dental Spurs are caused by uneven wearing teeth. They drool, lose their appetite, paw at the mouth, have to gag motions when chewing or eating, and have weight loss. See a vet! Oral exams can pinpoint teeth spurs. It's a very good idea to get x-rays. The vet can file the affected teeth down. It's a good idea to bring the Chinchilla in for routine check-ups if they're common. After dental work, you may need to hand feet. To prevent Dental Spurs, provide your Chinchilla with plenty of chew toys and different varieties of hay.
Malocclusion is from uneven wearing teeth, genetics, and environmental injuries. They drool, lose their appetite, get watery eyes, paw at the mouth, make gagging motions when chewing or eating, lose weight, change activity level, or have bumps on their jaw. See a vet! The vet will have to perform a thorough oral exam such as x-rays. They're urgent to be sure that the roots are not overgrown into the jaw or sinus cavities. It's not a curable disease. Their symptoms may be an impediment and looked after, but only for a certain amount of time. If the teeth are overgrown, the vet can file down the molars or clip the incisors. The Chinchilla will need routine check-ups. You may have to hand feed after dental work. To prevent it, provide many chew toys along with different varieties of hay.
They don't know what causes fur chewing. Some believe that it's stress, the environment, boredom, or genetics. Their fur is chewed short down the hips/back. Even cage-mates could be chewed. They'll need a visual examination. There isn't a known treatment for fur chewing. Just provide the Chinchilla with many enhanced items and things to do may help. To prevent it, give them plenty of chew toys and activities.
Hunchback is caused by malnutrition leading to liver disease. They get a characteristic "hunched" back. To come to a diagnosis, a vet can run tests. Offering a high-quality diet can help. Provide your Chinchilla with a high-quality feed, and do not feed excessive treats or unhealthy treats.
Overheating is caused by keeping a Chinchilla in an environment with too high temperature, allowing the Chinchilla to play excessively. They get red ears; have labored breathing, and lethargy. Vet care may be needed. Immediately move the Chinchilla to a cooler area. Put a frozen water bottle next to the Chinchilla or lay the Chinchilla on a chilled granite tile. To prevent the Chinchilla from overheating, keep the Chinchilla in temperatures lower than seventy-five degrees Fahrenheit.
Male Chinchillas are inclined to hair rings. A hair ring is a ring of fur that forms around the Chinchillas penis. Males usually clean their penises themselves and remove any hair rings. Fur may build up and the Chinchilla might be unable to remove the ring itself. That's when you must step in. Once a month hair ring checks should be performed. You can do that by wrapping the Chinchilla in a towel securely. To remove the penis from the cover, a dab of KY Jelly could help lubricate and make it easier. Gently roll the cover back to reveal the penis. Take the penis with your fingers and gently pull outward until the penis is fully revealed. If there's a fur present, it'll need to be removed. The ring can be lubricated with more KY Jelly and gently worked off of the penis. Then, the penis should withdraw itself, but it may take some time. If the penis is still revealed after a few hours have passed, you then may need to see a vet. If your Chinchilla has a fur ring that can't be removed, then you should definitely see a vet. Make sure to be gentle and not hurt the Chinchilla.
Chinchillas have dainty skeletal structures. Broken bones are common in many pet Chinchillas, unfortunately. Cages that have ramps are infamous for causing Chinchillas to get their legs caught and ultimately broken in between the wires. Cages with wire flooring that's too large and shelves could also break their legs. Another thing that's known to break their legs is wire wheels. A broken leg will be cut off by a vet. Chinchillas with their legs cut off to do pretty amazingly on three legs. They can still hop, run, and play like regular Chinchillas. They can even run on their wheels with no problems at all. If you notice your Chinchilla favoring a leg, and the condition doesn't improve within a day, take it to the vet for X-rays. X-rays are great for finding out if your Chinchilla has a broken bone. For a broken leg, cutting it off is the best option. Under some circumstances, some have been able to save the leg.
Chinchillas can turn on their cage-mates and cause nasty wounds. If the wounds are shallow, they can be cleaned with a damp cloth and Blu-kote can be applied to them. If the wounds are more serious, vet care should be seen immediately because Chinchillas can go into shock. Shock is dangerous if it isn't treated and it can be fatal. The vet will most likely shave the affected area and clean the wounds. To either prevent the infection or fight the infection that has set in, an oral antibiotic may be prescribed. If you notice your Chinchillas wound looking red, inflamed, or seeping, vet care should definitely be provided in case an infection is beginning to take place. A wounded Chinchilla may stop eating and you'll need to step in and hand feed. It's crucial to watch your chinchilla see if they're eating. If they go anorexic, they can face more serious problems. Hope this has helped and good luck!
If you have decided to get yourself a pet ferret there are several places that you can go to obtain one. The following are the most accessible places for getting your hands on a pet ferret:
1. A Pet store
2. A Breeder
3. An animal shelter
Ferrets have fairly long life spans compared to other animals of a similar size. Ferrets tend to live an average of about 8-9 years, which means that you should make absolutely sure that you want a ferret and have done all of the necessary research before purchasing one. Please note that ferrets do take a lot of care and attention and that you must take this into consideration before buying one. This article is intended to give you some basic information about ferret care and how best to look after your little ferret friend.
One of the most important things to note about ferrets is that they are a predominantly nocturnal species; this basically means that they are asleep for the majority of the day and they wake up during the night. The first few weeks of owning a ferret tend to be quite tiring for the new owner. Ferrets have lots of energy when they first wake up and they need lots of entertainment and exercise to keep them healthy, this means that when your ferret wakes up you will need to let him out to play. If left in its cage a ferret can become bored and restless and can get quite stressed and unhappy and this can lead to a ferret becoming quite ill and unhealthy.
Ferrets are naturally curious creatures and they enjoy crawling into small dark spaces. They also have a tendency to eat anything small enough to fit into their mouths, obviously, this is not always good for them because it can cause them digestive problems and stomach aches. Another problem with a ferret's curiosity is that they like to chew cables; again this can be very bad for your ferret as getting several thousand volts through their delicate little bodies can cause them some serious problems. To avoid your ferret getting injured, sick, or electrocuted you should make sure that your home is ferret proofed before allowing your little friend to wander around the place. Keep any rooms that you are allowing the ferret into clean and tidy, make sure that there are no small objects lying around, keep cables secure and out of your ferrets reach, and try to block up any small spaces that your ferret may try to squeeze into. Blocking up small spaces will not only keep your ferret from injuring himself but it will also mean that he is easy to find at all times.
Ferrets are small mammals and are carnivorous so you will have to feed them meat. The thing about ferrets is that they have quite specific dietary needs and you will have to meet these needs in order to keep your pet ferret healthy. Ferrets have very high metabolisms and require food that is high in protein such as is contained in meat and poultry. Most pet shops will stock ferret specific food and they are also available on the internet at very competitive prices so getting hold of ferret food is very easy indeed. Some people suggest feeding a ferret cat food, this is not a good idea as cat food does not contain all of the nutrients that a ferret requires so prolonged feeding of cat food can have adverse effects on your ferret's health. It is important to avoid feeding your ferret anything that is high in fat or that contains high amounts of carbohydrates and sugar as this will make your ferret sick.
As with the vast majority of household pets, your pet ferret will require water (I know this is an obvious fact but I figured I might as well mention it incise anybody forgot about it). Tap water should be fine for your pet ferret and you can dispense it into either a bowl or a bottle. A lot of people tend to put the water into a pet bottle that attaches to the side of the ferret cage, similar to the type you put on a gerbil cage. The advantages of using a bottle instead of a bowl are that they do tend to be less messy. Whether you use a bowl or a bottle for your ferret's water you must ensure that you clean it regularly to avoid making your ferret ill.
Due to the fact that ferrets are curious and adventurous, not to mention occasionally a little bit destructive, it is not advised that you leave your ferret unsupervised. Cats and dogs are fine to leave in the house on their own unsupervised for periods of time and they, if trained properly, do not get into much trouble, this cannot happen with a ferret. If you leave a ferret on its own it could get stuck, injured or even poison itself by eating something that it shouldn't. If the ferret has to be left on its own for a period of time it is a good idea to put the ferret in a ferret cage. There is a huge range of ferret cages available on the market that cater to all sorts of ferret needs and the prices vary widely. The average cage size tends to be around 18" x 18" x 30" a cage of this size should have enough room for your ferret to move around in whilst being small enough to easily fit into the average house.
Caring for your ferret will involve spending time playing with your pet ferret. If you wish to keep your furry little friend entertained it is a good idea to pick up a few ferret friendly toys. There are literally hundreds of different toys available for ferrets in the market; some of them are great fun for the owner to play with. When choosing toys for your pet ferret it will be a good idea to choose something that is hard-wearing and durable. Ferrets, like cats, can play quite rough and if they are playing with a flimsy toy it will end up being destroyed within five minutes. The ferret is equipped with very sharp teeth and claws and they often use these when playing so any toy that cannot withstand being pounced on by a fast-moving ball of fur with teeth and claws is just a waste of money.
Ferrets are very intelligent creatures and are capable of being trained to carry out simple tasks. One thing that you can train them to do is to use a litter tray to do their business in. You will not have to buy a ferret specific litter tray as a basic cat litter tray will do the job. Teaching your ferret to use a litter tray will mean that you don't end up finding ferret droppings all over your house; it will also help to keep your ferret nice and clean too. There are various websites out there that can offer advice on ferret training and can give you some great tips about how to train your ferret to use a litter tray. When training your ferret to use the litter tray, it is a good idea to reward your ferret every time he does this will mean that your ferret will associate going to the toilet with getting praise and a treat. I used this method of rewarding a pet for good behavior on my cat when I first got it.
Every time my cat used the litter tray I would reward him with a catnip chocolate drop. Unfortunately, he realized that when he wanted a treat all he had to do was do his business so when he wanted a treat he would sit in the tray and would strain until the smallest amount of pee came out, then he would meow at me to fetch him his treats, I had to stop using this method because he was peeing every five minutes and I thought he would end up injuring himself. Luckily even though I stopped giving him the treats for every successful toilet trip he still learned that he must do his business in the litter tray. You can use the reward method to teach your ferret other tricks as well; my best friend taught his ferret to beg like a dog using treats. A popular belief is that getting ferret whilst it is young means that it will be easier to train than one that is older, whatever the age of the ferret you choose is up to you and training your ferret will be much easier the more time you spend with it.
Ferrets, like cats and dogs, require regular check-ups at the vets so that they can have their vaccinations to prevent them from getting ill. Also, the vet can keep an eye on your ferret's state of health and often the vet is a massive resource of animal care advice. If you have questions about caring for your ferret a vet would be an excellent person to talk to.
Ferrets each have their own personalities so your ferret may act differently to another person's ferret. Some ferrets will be mischievous some will be pig-headed and stubborn so every experience is different, if you are lucky you will end up with a ferret that will have a personality that compliments yours.
As you can see from this article caring for a ferret can be quite difficult but as long as you spend time with your ferret and feed it properly everything should work out fine. The internet is full of information about ferrets and there are a lot of helpful people on the net who can give you great advice about ferret care, so do not worry if your ferret is acting odd and you don't know why you can probably find out the answer on the internet.
Female Black widow spider sunning herself on a nice day. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
The black widow spider is probably the most famous and feared spider species in the world, and all the scary picture comes from the habit of the female spider to devour the male after mating. It is this specificity that is actually responsible for the name of the species as such, but there are plenty of other features that make the black widow spider stand out.
The most common color of this spider is dark brown or black with a red hourglass pattern on the body; the legs are hairy and the jaws seem very strong. There are several other varieties related to the black widow spider; they live in South Africa and Australia, and the major difference from the North American black one is of color: they are red and brown.
Even in North America, there are three different types of the black widow spider and their classification is made according to the geographical area where they live: there is the northern black widow, the southern black widow and the western black widow; thus the species is widely spread from the south of Canada to Mexico. Though there are some morphological differences, the three varieties are pretty much related and similar to each other.
Like many other venomous creatures, the black widow spider has bright red pattens on it as a warning sign for predators that would attempt to feed on it. The black widow spider is not capable of killing a bird that would eat it, but the digestive sickness that would follow will be definitely enough to make it avoid attacking the black widow again.
The female black widow spider is more venomous than the male, and it is she the biggest threat to predators. Nevertheless, the red color helps the males too in order to send the same threatening message as the female. While the males move freely in their habitat, the females usually spend their entire lives in just one place, as they very seldom leave their nests.
In terms of toxicity, the black widow spider has one of the most potent venoms in the animal world: it is actually fifteen times stronger than that of the rattlesnake for instance. It also surpasses the cobra and the coral snake in the effectiveness of the poison. Though death is not usually the outcome of a black widow bite, some dozens of cases have been reported over the last decades only in the United States. Nevertheless, on a more common basis, the black widow spider bite causes very serious symptoms and necrosis.
Unlike the situation you face with many other small or exotic pets, gerbil care is not particularly demanding. While there are the usual requirements for food, housing, and a healthy environment for any type of pet, those for the gerbil are really quite straightforward and easy to put in place.
A gerbil once used to human contact, is a very sociable little creature, cute with a capital C, and enjoyable to watch as it goes about its daily activities. Before you even start thinking about food and housing, the first rule for gerbil care, and a very important one, is when purchasing a gerbil as a pet, purchase at least two. Two males or two females will be fine unless you're planning to breed them. Solitary gerbils make very unhappy pets, and often do not live long. Even if you have ample time to spend with one, they really need to be with another gerbil for companionship to be happy. So get two. If you do get a male and female, realize that gerbils breed like rabbits, only more so! Figure on 10 litters a year with 8-10 little gerbils per litter. Unless you have plenty of relatives or friends who would like a free gerbil or two (they don't cost or sell for much), best stick to a same-sex environment. Unlike some other animals, two males generally won't fight but will get on just fine.
A 10-gallon glass aquarium type enclosure is best for housing one or two gerbils. You'll need a wire mesh top, as the gerbil is a champion jumper. Wire cages are OK but should have a fine mesh so gerbil legs or tails won't get caught. Also, with a wire cage, you might find bedding scattered all over near the cage. Gerbils love to shred paper, especially cardboard. Toilet paper rolls or kitchen towel roils make fine toys, although they won't last long. A few wooden blocks or safe plastic chew toys will be a most welcome addition to their home.
Gerbils need a supply of clean water. A water bottle that hangs from the side of the cage is best. A water dish or bowl won't work at all. The same goes for a food dish. Feed your pet premixed gerbil food. Gerbils love sunflower seeds and an occasional peanut but use these as occasional treats only as they are fattening. Proper gerbil care dictates a diet that will not be too fattening. A fat gerbil will still be a cute gerbil, but not necessarily a healthy one. An occasional piece of apple or carrot to gnaw on is another good idea, but just don't leave it in the cage. Pieces of food will get buried in the bedding and tend to rot.
On the subject of bedding, give them an ample supply, as they love to dig in it, and it won't get wet so quickly. Aspen or corncob chips or shavings are best. Don't use pine or cedar shavings, as both can cause respiratory problems, especially with young gerbils. With proper housing, bedding, clean water and the right food, you're well on the way to doing an excellent job of proper gerbil care. The gerbil, as a rule, is a pretty hardy little guy and, when well cared for, will live out a typical 4-5 year life span in good health. Most respiratory ailments can be traced to improper bedding. Gerbils also will at times get fleas or mites, depending on the environment they are in. A pet store or veterinarian can recommend the proper spray to treat fleas or mites.
Wire cages or some toys can at times result in injury, a common one being a damaged or broken tail. A broken tail will often repair itself (make certain to remove the cause if you can). One rule in gerbil care never picks one up by the tail. The gerbil tail is not up to the task of supporting the gerbil's weight. Following these simple rules should give you not just many hours, but many years of enjoyment, with a very nice little pet.
All domesticated mice come from the descendants of the common house mouse whose scientific name is Mus musculus. In fact, the word mouse comes from the Sanskrit word 'musha' which means thief. The origin of the common house mouse is Asia. Today, mice are now found throughout the world, and mice, in general, thrive where populations of people are present. The mouse is also a member of the rodent family of the order, Rodentia.
It is believed that mice began living with humans as long as 10,000 years ago. Association with humans and interaction seems to go back to the dawn of history. Archaeologists have also found Egyptian bowls and other artifacts that contain pictures of colored mice. These artifacts have indicated they kept mice as pets because they thought they possessed supernatural powers. They worshiped these animals and believed that they were born from the mud of the Nile and had healing properties. Other societies believed that mice could cure diseases including measles, whooping cough, and smallpox. Even Biblical references recorded included plagues of mice. And mice were also used in various other writings such as Aesop's Fables which are the basis for many modern-day puppet shows.
During the 1700s the mouse fancy really got its start. The earliest domesticated mice were kept in the royal palaces of Japan and China. In Japan, they were increasing in popularity as breeding animals and also pets. It was during this time that people were experimenting with breeding to produce new colors. 'The Breeding Of Curious Varieties Of The Mouse' booklet was written in 1878 by Chobei Zenya. This informational booklet included drawings and descriptions of variations on breeding programs. The booklet instructed breeders on how to create specific colors and varieties.
In the early 1800s popularity began to grow in Europe. In 1877 Walter Maxey, the father of the mouse fancy, acquired his first mice in the UK. Later in 1895, Maxey founded the National Mouse Club in England. This club set the standards for the different varieties and sponsored regular shows. The first show was in 1895 in Lincoln and was won by Miss Ursula Dickenson with a Dutch Oven. This affair with mice breeding eventually leads to the rediscovery of Mendel's theories on genetics by the scientific community.
Mice eventually made their way to the Americas by sailing across the seas and are believed to have been introduced to North America by Spanish sailors. The mouse attraction is relatively young in the United States. The first U.S.mouse clubs were founded in the 1950s. Lately, the American Fancy Rat and Mouse Association was founded in 1983. There are now several clubs in the United States and many more worldwide.
When most people think about pet mice they predictably think about the classic "white mice", but in fact there are well over 40 varieties. Most mothers are terrified at the thought of pet mice getting loose and scurrying around the home. Often these mothers prefer mice puppets and mice stuffed animals rather than the real thing. In fact, many manufacturers such as Folkmanis specialize in creating beautiful yet lifelike puppets and stuffed toys. Parents can use these puppets to teach their children the virtues of the mouse without enduring the clean-up.
The main feature of mice is their gnawing front teeth which continue to grow throughout their lives. These paired teeth are called incisors. Mice have poor vision and their activity patterns rely heavily on smell, taste, touch, and hearing. They are excellent jumpers and are capable of leaping at least 12 inches vertically. Female mice make the best pets because their urine does not smell like that of the male. Mice are nocturnal in nature and very social. They are active in the evening and night but mainly sleep during the day. They can breed as soon as 8 weeks old and can deliver a litter of up to 12 babies in three weeks. Mice can live for over two years while the average life expectancy is about 1.5-2 years.
The most commonly available type of mouse available as a pet is the domestic pet mouse and is the result of hundreds of generations of careful breeding. These mice have been selectively bred to be placid while enhancing the desirable qualities of the mice. They do not carry any diseases but also do not carry much of a chance of surviving in the wild if they were to escape.
This current economic recession has affected many people. People have less time, money and space available for animals. People are often turning to pocket pets such as mice as an ideal low-cost and low-maintenance alternative to having pets in their busy lives. Pet mice, both real and plush provide an outlet and a means to admire the virtues of the mouse.
Although there are several types of hamsters occurring in the wild, only five are commonly kept as household pets. And though there are several differences between the breeds that make them each unique, there are traits common to all hamsters, regardless of type. Chief among these traits is lifespan - the average hamster has a lifespan of roughly 1000 days, or just a little under three years, with male hamsters living on average just a bit longer than females.
All hamsters have cheek pouches which they use to carry food, or in cases of danger, they're young. Also common among all hamsters is the presence of scent glands, although the location of these glands differs depending on the type of hamster.
All hamsters reach breeding age in roughly 6-8 weeks, with a very short pregnancy lasting only 15 days. The size of the litter averages about 6-8 pups. As you may already know, hamsters are very susceptible to stress, with new mothers being particularly so. If this occurs it's not unusual for the new mother to eat her newborn pups, so it's important to keep stress to an absolute minimum for new hamster mothers.
One of the most common pet hamster breeds, the Syrian hamster is also commonly known as the Teddy Bear hamster, Fancy hamster, and the Golden hamster, among others. Syrian hamsters grow to full size of about 7 inches in length, with the females usually a bit longer than the males.
If you buy a Syrian from the pet store you may see several young Syrian hamsters kept in the same cage - this is very misleading as Syrian hamsters are extremely territorial and will fight to the death with any other hamster they are caged with. The only reason the Syrian hamsters you see in pet stores aren't fighting when you buy them is that they don't develop their territorial nature until about age 6 weeks. After that, the rule is one Syrian hamster per cage!
Here's a story from Tammy Crum, a well-respected hamster breeder:
"A previous partner of mine used a shelving system to store the hamster, with Syrians on top. They were in a fish tank and somehow got out landed in a tank with Roborovskis. Needless to say that by the time he discovered the missing culprit all the Robs were dead."
Given their large size, Syrian hamsters are more easily held for longer periods of time than dwarf hamsters as they tend not to tire as easily. Another interesting fact about Syrian hamsters is that, even though they have the nickname Golden hamster, they come in over 40 different color types. This is achieved through today's advanced breeding techniques, allowing for a range of color and fur length.
Most Syrian hamsters, like all other hamster breeds, do not require any grooming on your part. The only exception to this is the Long Haired Syrian hamster. In this case, a simple toothbrush can be used to remove any bedding material that may be caught up in his fur.
